Granite New granite V3 before first run

[insomnia77]

Hey guys is there anything I should check before I bring this out for a run. For example do I need to check diff fluids? I'm already traumatized from whole exb rear diff ordeal lol but I'll do what I need to do.

 

[parcou]

Hey guys is there anything I should check before I bring this out for a run. For example do I need to check diff fluids? I'm already traumatized from whole exb rear diff ordeal lol but I'll do what I need to do.

Yes

I have a new Big Rock that came Saturday. I woud check the diff housing for grease and the diffs for enough fluid. Then do overall inspection of bearings, wheels, screws tigh, etc. I like to hit my RCs all over with Moo-slick silicone lubricant all those moving non-electrical parts.

 

[insomnia77]

Strangely I noticed the rear wheels bow inward. They are not straight like the front. Is that another adjustment that should be made?? It might be hard too see in pics.

 

[KevBar40]

No, all good. The rear tires are supposed to tow in a little.

 

[insomnia77]

No, all good. The rear tires are supposed to tow in a little.

Thanks guys!

 

[parcou]

Strangely I noticed the rear wheels bow inward. They are not straight like the front. Is that another adjustment that should be made?? It might be hard too see in pics.

View attachment 100837

He is correct....see the image I attached off Amain site for the Granite... It helps it to drive straight from what I read hear as a newbie some time back...

Looking over my new BR today...yes diffs fluids can be topped off and bit more grease in the outer diff housing. Arrma is bad about diff fluids on all their RCs so if you are going to be doing some serious running of it...at some point check this ASAP.

I also found that the set screw that holds the 14mm hex on the tire hubs:
1. Not all were tight snug...two were very loose
2. None had any loctite being metal to metal

I like the longer 3x4mm set screws over the small ones that come with it...regardless check yours for tightness and add some loctite.

I do not think you have any suspension binding but still check it...take the tires off, remove the lower shock screw only and see if the suspension arm drops freely when you lift it and not stick or hang...

 

[insomnia77]

He is correct....see the image I attached off Amain site for the Granite... It helps it to drive straight from what I read hear as a newbie some time back...

Looking over my new BR today...yes diffs fluids can be topped off and bit more grease in the outer diff housing. Arrma is bad about diff fluids on all their RCs so if you are going to be doing some serious running of it...at some point check this ASAP.

I also found that the set screw that holds the 14mm hex on the tire hubs:
1. Not all were tight snug...two were very loose
2. None had any loctite being metal to metal

I like the longer 3x4mm set screws over the small ones that come with it...regardless check yours for tightness and add some loctite.

I do not think you have any suspension binding but still check it...take the tires off, remove the lower shock screw only and see if the suspension arm drops freely when you lift it and not stick or hang...

View attachment 100878

Oh mine don't bow like that. Mine bow inward from the center - top of the wheels. The bottom of the wheels bow out. So it looks like the inner part of the wheel will wear out sooner.

 

[parcou]

Oh mine don't bow like that. Mine bow inward from the center - top of the wheels. The bottom of the wheels bow out. So it looks like the inner part of the wheel will wear out sooner.

View attachment 100879

I see...you can adjust the top turnbuckle seen in the pic to change it to stand more upward. You may not have a turnbuckle wrench but a small adjustable wrench will work. Just count the number of turns so if you want to bring it back you know the count. It's hard to know the right direction off the bat for which way takes it more in or outward

 

[razorrc]

Set steering end points, you will have to look up the procedure in the SLT3 manual online. Mine were not set correctly.

I would set the camber (bowing you refer to) to approximately 1 degree inward.

Check the slipper setting, mine was about 3/4 turn too tight.

Might want to set Punch to 5. Personal preference.

 

[insomnia77]

Set steering end points, you will have to look up the procedure in the SLT3 manual online. Mine were not set correctly.

I would set the camber (bowing you refer to) to approximately 1 degree inward.

Check the slipper setting, mine was about 3/4 turn too tight.

Might want to set Punch to 5. Personal preference.

Thanks again guys!

 

[GRC]

Oh mine don't bow like that. Mine bow inward from the center - top of the wheels. The bottom of the wheels bow out. So it looks like the inner part of the wheel will wear out sooner.

That's negative camber, they are supposed to be like that. It helps grip when turning. If you drove straight all the time, the inner part would wear out sooner. But when you turn, the car tilts. That negative camber keeps more tire on the surface. I adjusted mine when I first got the Granite, but over months of use, I re-adjusted according to tire wear. The result is I'm right back to factory settings. It will depend on your driving style, but I don't think there's reason to adjust unless you notice uneven wear.

If you decide to adjust, you should align the turnbuckles. If you look closely, there is a line on one side of the turnbuckles. Put them all to the left side (when looking down at the truck from the top). Arrma is a bit sloppy in this regard. My Granite did not come with the turnbuckles aligned. Once they are all on the left, turning the turnbuckle wrench towards the front of the car will make the turnbuckle shorter (more camber), turning towards the back of the car will make them longer (less camber).

I would check diff fluids, like many others, my Arrma came with very little diff fluid. I also set the ESC punch to 5.

 

[insomnia77]

That's negative camber, they are supposed to be like that. It helps grip when turning. If you drove straight all the time, the inner part would wear out sooner. But when you turn, the car tilts. That negative camber keeps more tire on the surface. I adjusted mine when I first got the Granite, but over months of use, I re-adjusted according to tire wear. The result is I'm right back to factory settings. It will depend on your driving style, but I don't think there's reason to adjust unless you notice uneven wear.

If you decide to adjust, you should make sure the turnbuckles are all aligned. If you look closely, there is a line on one side of the turnbuckles. Make sure they are all on the left side (when looking down at the truck from the top). Arrma is a bit sloppy in this regard. My Granite did not come with all the turnbuckles aligned. Once they are all on the left, turning the turnbuckle wrench towards the front of the car will make the turnbuckle shorter (more camber), turning towards the back of the car will make them longer (less camber).

I would check diff fluids, like many others, my Arrma came with very little diff fluid. I also set the ESC punch to 5.

I think the negative camber is also why I couldn't pull out my rear diff because it was hugging it too tight on both sides. I think I have to turn turnbuckle towards back of car to make longer and once I do that it will give more slack and release diff

 

[GRC]

Camber doesn't affect the ability to pull out the diff. Just disconnect the rod end completely, along with the top of the shocks if you're having trouble removing the diff.

 

[insomnia77]

Camber doesn't affect the ability to pull out the diff.

It's the piece below the turnbuckles . They won't let go of the diff because it seems like there is not enough slack to get the proper angle outward to pull the diff out . If I pull hard I can see those pieces breaking . Front one released no problems .

 

[GRC]

Camber adjustments are millimeters, adjusting camber won't help. Just remove the screw that goes through the piece below the turnbuckle (the rod end). Then it will be entirely disconnected, you'll have infinite slack. Removing the screw that holds the top of the shock will also make it easier to take out the diff.

 

[insomnia77]

Camber adjustments are millimeters, adjusting camber won't help. Just remove the screw that goes through the piece below the turnbuckle (the rod end). Then it will be entirely disconnected, you'll have infinite slack. Removing the screw that holds the top of the shock will also make it easier to take out the diff.

Thank you. Looking forward to finishing up and getting my first run.

 

[insomnia77]

I got diff out by removing screw for each turnbuckle. I opened the rear diff......basically no fluid!

 

[kantonburg]

Check the slipper setting, mine was about 3/4 turn too tight.

@razorrc

I know the slipper changed on the V3 and for someone who has never messed with one can you explain what you mean or how you knew it was 3/4 turn too tight. TIA

 

[jondilly1974]

I got diff out by removing screw for each turnbuckle. I opened the rear diff......basically no fluid!

View attachment 100984

Yep that would have diffed out and possibly blew a tire. Good catch ??

 

[insomnia77]

I took the granite out for a spin. My goodness does it handle differently then a kraton exb. It turns on a dime....its so fun to drive ?