Kraton New Kraton 4S V2 - What to check out of the box?

[Gedrick]

Howdy folks, long time listener, first time caller here.

I'm looking at my first Arrma this weekend, and I know I'll be eager to throw a pack in it and try it out. However, as this will be my seventh RC car, I know better than to rip it without checking everything is tight and set up properly. I'm looking for any advice from owners of the new K4 - what have you seen that has gone wrong out of the box?

I'll be checking the usual suspects: wheel nuts, motor mount, gear mesh, etc - anything else I should be weary of? Looking forward to chatting with you all.

 

[Robbbbbb66]

Howdy folks, long time listener, first time caller here.

I'm looking at my first Arrma this weekend, and I know I'll be eager to throw a pack in it and try it out. However, as this will be my seventh RC car, I know better than to rip it without checking everything is tight and set up properly. I'm looking for any advice from owners of the new K4 - what have you seen that has gone wrong out of the box?

I'll be checking the usual suspects: wheel nuts, motor mount, gear mesh, etc - anything else I should be weary of? Looking forward to chatting with you all.

Welcome to AF!

You got most of the of the out of the box checks.

I would also check diff mesh and make sure you got metal diffs.

 

[Gedrick]

Welcome to AF!

You got most of the of the out of the box checks.

I would also check diff mesh and make sure you got metal diffs.

Oh snap, I thought all versions of the V2 came with metal diffs? Was that a last minute change on Arrma’s part?

 

[GraniteFox]

The only thing I would do is pull the power module check the gear mesh. Also slap some fuzzy side Velcro on the bottom of the power module to prevent dirt entering.

 

[Robbbbbb66]

Oh snap, I thought all versions of the V2 came with metal diffs? Was that a last minute change on Arrma’s part?

Yes, you are correct but a member had a V2 come with a plastic input gear.

 

[GraniteFox]

Yes, metal diffs are standard as well as metal spur.

 

[razorrc]

Make sure the rear outdrives are mounted properly and set screws are tightened.

Also always set end points, they're never set right out of the box.

 

[Gedrick]

Make sure the rear outdrives are mounted properly and set screws are tightened.

Also always set end points, they're never set right out of the box.

Ah yes, endpoints are a good call! And I typically blue-loctite the diff outdrives, I've never had one come loose before doing this but driveshafts seem to be my perpetual "fun ender", at least on my only basher.

Funny how the more experienced you get the more you realize "RTR" really means "Ready to take out of the box, put on my workbench, and double-check the handiwork".

 

[21STalion]

Most critical!

Always always always tighten the nut behind the wheel before going out.

It's the nut that holds on usually attached by one or two fingers and a thumb

 

[dfuller]

I’d suggest checking front and rear diff fluid. Mine was nearly empty when I got my Outcast 4S v2. They take 10,000 cst oil. Shocks were full , but it wouldn’t hurt to check those as well.

 

[MrLimey]

I would check all the screws that need to be removed in order to remove the rear shock tower/ diff case piece: this part was removed stateside in order to retrofit the revised rear Cvd outdrives and those doing this work varied in competence apparently. 2 of the screws on mine were stripped including a critical one that holds the case together. It was tightened so hard they even rounded the screw threads so it won’t cut into a replacement piece. No mean feat given the embedment. Must have been using a power driver on drill mode or something. Also check grub screws holding the revised rear Cvd out drives on. Again multiple cases of these being installed with too much force and being stripped which leads to detachment of drive shaft. Edit: if your Cvd outdrives are stripped apparently you can move the set screw to another unused hole on the other side. This is lucky because the part is backordered until December

 

[Puddlejumpernva]

Not planning to run two 2S battery packs? I'd remove the battery splitter with the jumper if you're comfortable soldering and don't mind the risk of warranty issues. At the very least, figure out a good way to secure those wires and plug. I guess the plug goes outside the battery and then the connection to the ESC cap pack can go through the clips on the battery straps.

I buggered mine up and it got tangled in the center driveshaft, cutting it in two.

A support under the motor can end cap may save the chassis from cracking. Also read up on the center brace, chassis flex and cracks with hard bashing and bad luck.