Kraton New Kraton owner

RELIC1

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 8S
  2. Kraton 6s
I own several rigs , and now a proud owner of a Kraton , I also have a Mt 410 , really looking forward to comparing the two , but I keep watching all these people talking about emmediate upgrades on the Kraton , jeeze ! $500 and open the box and fix it !? Is this diff shimming a must right up front , the the tower brace is a must ? The servo is out of there , put in a servo brace ? What the H , E , double hockey sticks is going on here , is this just if I'm nuts enuff to put in the 6s or is all this really needed ? I've been in this addiction for 30 years now I'm very aquianted with needed and not needed upgrades but all these reports I'm seeing has got me pondering , any help on this is very appreciated
 

arrmadillo

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Granite
  3. Kraton 6s
  4. Kraton 4s
  5. Outcast 6s
  6. Outcast 4s
  7. Vorteks
  8. Voltage
Welcome! If you bash light you don't need all that stuff unless you jump the hell out of it. Radio is crap out the box and bearings are junk. Run it until you break stuff, then maby upgrade those parts. I'd say change radio just for insurance and change bearings especially if you run in the dirt. Also front and rear chassis braces over the plastic ones would also be good insurance. If you send it, shock towers and chassis plate would be a good upgrade because they will bend eventually. Servo is also weak and better servo mound is good but not something you need to change OTB. You don't need to shim the diffs OTB.
 

xxl

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Arrma RC's
  1. Limitless
  2. Kraton 6s
who makes a good bearing set for the kraton?
 

Brandon

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
  2. Typhon 6s
Just run it till something fails. Then fix it with stock or upgraded parts. Lots of people like to tinker first and add the upgrades before hand. Simply up to you and your driving style. Rig is RTR out of box. I swapped the servo around run 3 and the rest as time went by as normal maintenance or cool looks.
 

RELIC1

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 8S
  2. Kraton 6s
I geuss the carriers is a good thing to do , save on shaft movement or me forgetting to check if anything backed out , I've got a servo and brace and Bec on the way , I'll be setting this up with my futaba pv3 , , I still refuse to believe that any diff out there is not going to give to 6s power continuously , I just don't wanna go there igeuss ????
 

xxl

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Arrma RC's
  1. Limitless
  2. Kraton 6s
Yes the included remote is bad. I just run stuff until it breaks then up grade as for the remote I am saving for a 7px
 

Jimbobjr

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 8S
  2. Kraton 6s
  3. Mojave EXB
  4. Outcast 6s
  5. Talion
  6. Typhon 6s
Diffs hold up okay on 6s. It really depends on the driver and what they are doing. My Kraton has a hobbywing 4985 motor and hex6 esc they hold up pretty well. The newer ones seem better to me. @Mr.Duke runs one on 8s. I can’t remember the last time I even charged a 4s battery.
 

MTK4355

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
  2. Typhon 6s
The thing is really tough out of the box when it comes to driving around really fast off road and sliding around corners and bumping into stuff now and again. Based on how my Kraton ran I'd even say the stock bearings could be fine for a while on the dirt as long as you don't get them wet. After my first mud day I definitely wanted to do that bearing upgrade on the axle carriers, and that was only a little over a week out of the box... I didn't do the diff bearings until parts broke where I needed to touch them anyway and most of them were still ok when they came off.

All that aside, if you are tempted to start launching the car over stuff I'd think twice about going very hard unmodified unless you just want to be waiting around for parts all the time. It seems to me that I started putting a completely different kind of stress on the thing once I began sending it more than a foot or so off the ground, and I wanted to do that much sooner than I thought I might.

Either way, stock or beefed up, the Kraton is a beast and a joy to drive on 6s!

Welcome!
 

RELIC1

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 8S
  2. Kraton 6s
Ya, pretty much the same with every RC product out there , it's made cheep so people can afford it , just have to understand your mosly buying a prototype of what you really want , I thought that I was getting something better , but its all good , great rig to improve on , it will be there by spring , so I'm very happy with it ( I geuss ? )
 

3d-rc.myshopify.com

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Granite
  3. Infraction
  4. Kraton 8S
  5. Kraton 6s
  6. Notorious
  7. Senton 6s
  8. Senton 3s
Honestly we will say poor man's checklist... radio and chassis braces. Everything else when it brakes. Obviously to keep on hand a set of a arms I would stick 1 million in center diff
 

crankestein

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Arrma RC's
  1. Talion
On the Talion V2, the diffs lasted me at least two yrs before they starting binding.
I bought a new set of diffs from Ebay, pulled from a Kraton V4, and to my surprise one was too stiff, and the other too loose.

So it seems the QC on newer versions is hit or miss, so I do recommend to check. It should not take much time to remove them and at least wiggle the cups and move them back and forth for more or less shimming. Mine needed in the spider gears and from the planetary to the main input gear, it was bad. Took it yesterday for a spin, and what a difference.

I not sure if anyone else mentioned it, the servo saver mod, put two shims/washers, or reverse to the V2/V3 that is adjustable. RPM wing mount, lost count how many I snapped, holes on the tires, and seal the inside, to prevent water and dust build up, and less ballooning.
And if possible, the Flex seal with drywall tape and shoe goo/E6000 mod, helps the body last a little longer.
 

RCBro80

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Kraton 6s
Honestly we will say poor man's checklist... radio and chassis braces. Everything else when it brakes. Obviously to keep on hand a set of a arms I would stick 1 million in center diff
The 1 million diff fluid upgrade is something I've heard of in just about every post or youtube video, but I never know which Kraton version people use as their reference. Has Arrma not upped the weight in the V4? What advantages am I missing out on with the stock centre diff fluid?
 
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3d-rc.myshopify.com

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Granite
  3. Infraction
  4. Kraton 8S
  5. Kraton 6s
  6. Notorious
  7. Senton 6s
  8. Senton 3s
Well they are speaking of the 6s line... stock is just too loose... a lot of people have exploded front tires on stock center diff. The higher you go the more of a 4 wheel drive effect it has. Also the higher you go the more likely you are to wheelie. After a few packs it will tame down a bit and act more like 500,000 wt oil after it wears in... it mostly will depend on how you drive... I usually run thicker all around because I play in real loose terrain where jump to jump doesn't have much of a lead up to it so I need traction. If you are just playing around the yard up and down the street I would say to run 50 front 100,000 center and 30 rear. It's a good street basher setup
 

Saltystevo

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Ya, pretty much the same with every RC product out there , it's made cheep so people can afford it , just have to understand your mosly buying a prototype of what you really want , I thought that I was getting something better , but its all good , great rig to improve on , it will be there by spring , so I'm very happy with it ( I geuss ? )
I thought the mt410 was the better product out of the box. I beat up my kraton because i thats how i learn. I blew a rear diff gear after 6 runs. Cheap fix and now know i need to shim. Arrma is great but isnt bulletproof. Its the best by far ive had in every way. Its actually so good that i push it and bash more then i ever have. I think this is why people break stuff and mod so quickly. Im Coming from the 80s tamiya. I would pray to not tap into anything and blow out another servo saver! Arrma is awesome for the money! And its nice to be able to buy something for less and not get charged a super high cost upfront because its built so well. And this is coming from someone who prefers to do so. Its made to be a solid carefully driven machine. Start launching it 30 feet in the air on 6s and have some awful landings and you'll understand why it happened but wont be able to figure out why you want to just keep doing it!
 

Leejax01

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
Honestly it all depends on how hard you are on things as your realistic expectations. The Arrma line is tough. Took a barrel roll at 65 and nothing was broken or damaged.
 

Saltystevo

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Honestly it all depends on how hard you are on things as your realistic expectations. The Arrma line is tough. Took a barrel roll at 65 and nothing was broken or damaged.
True, i real damage ive had is from full speed hitting a mailbox post on the street and huge air landing not upright. Both situations are really driver error and not lack of quality in arrma. They say arrma is a cheaper build but im completely impressed with it 100%
 

RCBro80

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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Kraton 6s
Well they are speaking of the 6s line... stock is just too loose... a lot of people have exploded front tires on stock center diff. The higher you go the more of a 4 wheel drive effect it has. Also the higher you go the more likely you are to wheelie. After a few packs it will tame down a bit and act more like 500,000 wt oil after it wears in... it mostly will depend on how you drive... I usually run thicker all around because I play in real loose terrain where jump to jump doesn't have much of a lead up to it so I need traction. If you are just playing around the yard up and down the street I would say to run 50 front 100,000 center and 30 rear. It's a good street basher setup
Maybe this question has been answered before, but are you referring to 1,000,000 weight or 1,000,000 CST? Any way someone could link the product that they've used in the centre diff? Thanks!
 
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