Kraton New Kraton upgrades

Kraton111

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Bought my kraton about 3 weeks ago and broke a rod end, pinion gear stripped so far. Wondering what upgrades and spare parts I should get. I have the arrma wheelie bar and tekno orange springs on order. I also have put 70w in my shocks. And I have a made a plastic wing riser and better battery hold down that both work great.
 

Rich Duperbash

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Bought my kraton about 3 weeks ago and broke a rod end, pinion gear stripped so far. Wondering what upgrades and spare parts I should get. I have the arrma wheelie bar and tekno orange springs on order. I also have put 70w in my shocks. And I have a made a plastic wing riser and better battery hold down that both work great.
I'd recommend running a Tbone bumper or maybe RPM. I use the Typhon Tbone on mine and it's worked great, also using RPM rear skid plate. Aluminum servo mount will remove flex the stock plastic one has and help save your servo. I'd recommend upgrading the rear chassis support to Hot Racing or GKA aluminum and consider making an aluminum tower to tower brace if you like doing bigger jumps. RPM wing mount seems to have more pliability if you break the stock HD one. Recommend extra diff gear sets, shock shafts, and rubber sealed bearings. Really depends on wether you run hard on 6s vs 4s...etc. Shimming your diffs helps tighten them up and avoid breakages, too. Robinson Racing Extra Hard pinions have never stripped on my rigs. Hope this helps.
 

Kraton111

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I'd recommend running a Tbone bumper or maybe RPM. I use the Typhon Tbone on mine and it's worked great, also using RPM rear skid plate. Aluminum servo mount will remove flex the stock plastic one has and help save your servo. I'd recommend upgrading the rear chassis support to Hot Racing or GKA aluminum and consider making an aluminum tower to tower brace if you like doing bigger jumps. RPM wing mount seems to have more pliability if you break the stock HD one. Recommend extra diff gear sets, shock shafts, and rubber sealed bearings. Really depends on wether you run hard on 6s vs 4s...etc. Shimming your diffs helps tighten them up and avoid breakages, too. Robinson Racing Extra Hard pinions have never stripped on my rigs. Hope this helps.

First off thanks for all the recommendations. I forgot to list that I have a rpm front bumper and I run on 6s. How do you shim the diffs? Who makes an aluminum servo mount? And do you have a pic of the aluminum tower to tower brace?

I'd recommend running a Tbone bumper or maybe RPM. I use the Typhon Tbone on mine and it's worked great, also using RPM rear skid plate. Aluminum servo mount will remove flex the stock plastic one has and help save your servo. I'd recommend upgrading the rear chassis support to Hot Racing or GKA aluminum and consider making an aluminum tower to tower brace if you like doing bigger jumps. RPM wing mount seems to have more pliability if you break the stock HD one. Recommend extra diff gear sets, shock shafts, and rubber sealed bearings. Really depends on wether you run hard on 6s vs 4s...etc. Shimming your diffs helps tighten them up and avoid breakages, too. Robinson Racing Extra Hard pinions have never stripped on my rigs. Hope this helps.

Also what size pinion gear would you recommend? I have been using the stock one which I think is12 and was thinking about using a 13t? The kraton came with the 14t but warns not to use it due to burning up the motor?
 

Vanning

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Check out Voltage Hobbies for the servo mount. The steering servo will blow out on you from jumping, try a steel gear one for replacement. (has to be the correct voltage) The stock one will last a while but it will probably let go eventually. Robinson Racing, I love those pinions. The 12 tooth is fine. Chassis brace (tower to tower) in my opinion is a great thing to do. Eventually..install some Avid bearings in your Kraton. Total cost for the bearing kit is around $20 dollars. On the center diff, you may want to get 2 ceramic hybrids that are sealed for life. You can get them from Boca, cost is $20 for 2. Those 2 bearings and sometimes the 2 that enter into the diff housings tend to blow out fast. I replaced those with higher quality bearings.
 

Rich Duperbash

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First off thanks for all the recommendations. I forgot to list that I have a rpm front bumper and I run on 6s. How do you shim the diffs? Who makes an aluminum servo mount? And do you have a pic of the aluminum tower to tower brace?



Also what size pinion gear would you recommend? I have been using the stock one which I think is12 and was thinking about using a 13t? The kraton came with the 14t but warns not to use it due to burning up the motor?
I agree with everything Vanning mentioned, but I like to run a higher 16 pinion and check my temps. See Thomas P's YouTube how to series on bulletproofing diffs, Tp-PartsRC-Xtreme. I recommend using the search function under forums here as a lot of this has been covered in threads already. Here's a few pics of the brace I made using aluminum trim channel for 1/4" plywood with a piece of angle aluminum at each end for better surface contact on the towers. Lots of ways to make one, this one has been thoroughly torture tested and has performed well. 2 zip ties at each end.
IMG_20170401_080808087.jpg
IMG_20170401_080639696.jpg
IMG_20170401_080715100.jpg
 

Kraton111

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I picked up the Robinson Racing 13t pinion gear yesterday. I figured I could get a little extra pep while replacing anyway. Anybody know what MPH you should get with the 13t? Also broke a rear A-arm jumping yesterday. Replacing a lot of parts in only a few weeks!
 

crankestein

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don't get to wrapped around all the ceramic bearing deal. I have never EVER used ceramic bearings, waaayyy over-rated. Since I started putting money into this hobby I can count how many bearingd I have blown, and most are on large scale RC. If they blow out fast is the quality of the bearing and not the material. All my 1/8th buggies have the same center bearing spec as the ARRMA Kraton and Talion and not once have they failed. Running a LRP .28 5 port on 20% nitro shredding spur and pinion gears every other or so tank, and still to this day they are fine, covered in dirt, mud, fuel. But its not my money that will be used.

** And I throw it out there for others to read who are new to this hobby. Get a pack of Avid, Losi w same specs and done.

The same thing for the shimming, I don't know, I may have a good rc, better materials etc. From large scale two stroke and now here, just follow manufacturer recommendations. Do remember, the company states SERVICE INTERVALS in the manual. If anything, upgrade to HD cnc diff housing. That is one thing that has helped on breakage on all two stroke applications. Instead of going crazy shimming, reinforce the diff. Its the flexing that destroys them, but I don't jump mine 20 feet in the air or slam them upside down like others enjoy to do so. Once again, on airsoft gearboxes players putJB weld on the exterior of the gearbox, besides shimming. I have my fair share of destroyed diffs on other rigs, it all stopped when a aluminum casing was installed.
 
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Kraton111

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Ok so now my stock servo has went bad twice in 3 weeks and my friends went bad today too. This is crazy that these cost so much and have junk servos. What would be the best servo to replace it?
 

GUSI RC

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I have the Savox 1256TG. Not the strongest Savox, but easily available here and not too expensive. :)
 

Homey

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I have been really enjoying the Hitec 7955TG. Personally enjoy buying once and never having to worry about it again. Quality has a price but what is the value of peace of mind to you?
 

BigShow823

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Ok so now my stock servo has went bad twice in 3 weeks and my friends went bad today too. This is crazy that these cost so much and have junk servos. What would be the best servo to replace it?
If you are doing heavy bashing expect that. I have had my Kraton since january and the most trouble I've had is my pinion getting loose.
 

Rich Duperbash

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bought a Savox 1283sg. Hopefully this will last longer than the stock. Whats the best servo mount to buy or does it matter? Is it worth it?
I run Voltage Hobbies and love it. Anything aluminum that doesn't allow servo to flex front to back. There are threads on making your own, seems like all the flex is from the plastic legs on the stock mount.
 

Kraton111

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Got my voltage hobby servo mount and arrma wheelie bar. Since I have been through a couple stock servos was wondering how to tell adjust the servo saver? I already upgraded to a savox servo.
 

Rich Duperbash

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Got my voltage hobby servo mount and arrma wheelie bar. Since I have been through a couple stock servos was wondering how to tell adjust the servo saver? I already upgraded to a savox servo.
My best suggestion would be to watch @Thomas P's how to vid from Tp-PartsRC-Xtreme. I use his technique with a hex wrench through the chassis hole underneath. His vids are awesome!!! Better to not run it too tight IMHO.
 

Vanning

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My best suggestion would be to watch @Thomas P's how to vid from Tp-PartsRC-Xtreme. I use his technique with a hex wrench through the chassis hole underneath. His vids are awesome!!! Better to not run it too tight IMHO.

His vids are great...I love the one on how to shim differentials, that one is the best.
 
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