Limitless New Limitless Build

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blauro

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Hi Everyone! New to the Arrma world; started the hobby with a Traxxas TRX-1 in '92 and dropped the hobby for a while, lol. Got back into it with a bunch of Traxxas RTR's, but fell in love with the Limitless, so i have one coming in tomorrow.

I have been searching the net and the forums for a good ESC/motor combo without going super crazy (6S is prob good enough for me) and came across a few from Castle:

X25.2V and a 1515-2200 KV motor
OR
a combo with the 1512-2650kv
OR
1717 8S which is a bit more than i wanted to spend.

Thoughts, feedback and guidance greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Brian
 
Welcome! What is the purpose of your limitless build? Are you looking to speed run or are you looking for a general basher to rip around the parking lot?
Thanks! Possibly a bit of both; speed runs at around 100 mph are prob appropriate and want to be able to have fun with it in a parking lot as well. There are SO many options, i am just trying to narrow it down and get some expert advice from you guys.
Also, what is needed to enable me to run two batteries at the same time?
 
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I’d definitely go with the MMX8S 1717

You’re going to have to really push first two options hard to hit 100 while dealing with heat issues
That makes sense, i appreciate it. Can you also tell me what component i will need to run two batteries?
 
MX is good but MMX8S is way better.
1512-2650Kv.......motor is too small for the LM, Kv too high for 6s. Out of the equation.
1515-2200Kv....... better but still not the best option for the LM, 2200Kv would get too hot on 6s with more than two speed run passes. Don't even think to bash with it (on 6s)
1717-1650Kv combo is what you need, the 1520-1650Kv is just $10 cheaper with a little bit less power than his brother 1717.
 
MX is good but MMX8S is way better.
1512-2650Kv.......motor is too small for the LM, Kv too high for 6s. Out of the equation.
1515-2200Kv....... better but still not the best option for the LM, 2200Kv would get too hot on 6s with more than two speed run passes. Don't even think to bash with it (on 6s)
1717-1650Kv combo is what you need, the 1520-1650Kv is just $10 cheaper with a little bit less power than his brother 1717.
Thanks for the feedback !! Is there anything else you can think of that you recommend I pickup? What batteries do you guys recommend ? Also assuming I could run the car on just one 3S no?
 
6s won't be doing speed runs above prob 100
6S is not necessarily slower than a 8S. it just draws more amps to give the same power.
Not saying it's easy but 6S on a MMX8S can pull up to 10kW.

1717-1650 is a very nice motor for the limitless.

Lipo's will likely be the most limiting factor for both speed/bashing. SMC, CNHL, graphene panthers,... search on the forum there are 100's of threads here about which you should consider.
 
6S is not necessarily slower than a 8S. it just draws more amps to give the same power.
Not saying it's easy but 6S on a MMX8S can pull up to 10kW.

1717-1650 is a very nice motor for the limitless.

Lipo's will likely be the most limiting factor for both speed/bashing. SMC, CNHL, graphene panthers,... search on the forum there are 100's of threads here about which you should consider.
Thanks Man, I appreciate it. I think that is what is most frustrating; there are a TON of opinions out there on this stuff, so you can search until you go blind and still have questions lol.
 
Which do you recommend. I know about the futoba but wondering what is a reasonably priced and effective transmitter/receiver.
For pure range beyond normal people eye sight the radiolink RC6GS v2 + R7FG is the (only) way to go.
Personally i think radiolink general build quality and controllability is only adequate and prefer the flysky noble nb4 myself. Still very decent range, but overall much better radio (and a bit more expensive) check this recent thread for reference

As for lipo best buy today, i'd recommend the new CNHL racing series. I've got myself a set of 4S-6200 recently and they are top quali for a reasonable price. In the US most ppl are SMC fanboys, but they are not easy to get in Europe, so i have no first hand experience with those.
 
Which do you recommend. I know about the futoba but wondering what is a reasonably priced and effective transmitter/receiver.
Many will laugh, but the Radiolink RC6GS V2 has incredible range. And some of the serious speed guys with non modded Futaba's prefer to use this Radiolink. And the 4 channel RC4GS V2 also same long range. You can even bump up the range some more with the dual antenna matching Rx.
I think the RC6GS ($80.) comes with the Dual Antenna Rx as standard now. RC4GS ($60.), not sure.
I have several decent radios here, including a Flysky Noble NB4. But my Lim uses the Radiolink RC6GS. It does have the best range of all my radios. Tested them.

Amazon.com: Radiolink RC6GS V2 2.4G 6 Channels RC Transmitter and Receiver R7FG Gyro RX Volt Telemetry Long Range, Surface Radio Controller for RC Car Boat Crawler Truck Buggy: Radiolink manufacturer: Toys & Games
:cool:
Edit: Its easy to run this radio with a 2s Lion or Lipo pack instead of AA's.
 
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Agree with the statements above related to the RadioLink RC6GS. I have owned several other radios including Futaba and the RadioLink is really impressive. The biggest catch is to set the steering end points and expo to your liking when you get started. I found the steering was way beyond what is needed.

Picking a motor and ESC is difficult. Overall if you goals are not to be one of the top speed runners then the MMX8s is probably the best esc for you.
From there depending what voltage you want to run will determine the ideal motor to choose. I was able to hit 86 mph on 2s with the Limitless ;)

So if you wanted you could build a 4s Limitless that goes over 100mph. Granted it will reduce the stress on the whole system to run higher voltage like 6s or 8s.
 
Agree with the statements above related to the RadioLink RC6GS. I have owned several other radios including Futaba and the RadioLink is really impressive. The biggest catch is to set the steering end points and expo to your liking when you get started. I found the steering was way beyond what is needed.

Picking a motor and ESC is difficult. Overall if you goals are not to be one of the top speed runners then the MMX8s is probably the best esc for you.
From there depending what voltage you want to run will determine the ideal motor to choose. I was able to hit 86 mph on 2s with the Limitless ;)

So if you wanted you could build a 4s Limitless that goes over 100mph. Granted it will reduce the stress on the whole system to run higher voltage like 6s or 8s.
Does the Radiolink RC6GS can change Dual Rate in real time? I mean it has a dedicated button for change DR settings on the fly? That helps a lot for changing steering settings instantly.
Excuse my ignorance but trying to do 100mph with 4s won't put more stress on the system that running 6s? With lower voltage the amp drawing needs to be higher to get the power for that speed, the losses due to the higher current of the 4S system will make it much less efficient resulting in a hotter motor/ESC.
 
Does the Radiolink RC6GS can change Dual Rate in real time? I mean it has a dedicated button for change DR settings on the fly? That helps a lot for changing steering settings instantly.
Excuse my ignorance but trying to do 100mph with 4s won't put more stress on the system that running 6s? With lower voltage the amp drawing needs to be higher to get the power for that speed, the losses due to the higher current of the 4S system will make it much less efficient resulting in a hotter motor/ESC.
To be honest I am not sure if there is a switch for that. I have my expo curve setup where I don't have to ever change anything. Small steering inputs do very little and then if I crank the wheel all the way I can still flip a U-turn in a 2 lane street.

20210208_203001.jpg


You are correct that a 6s system will have less total stress than a 4s system because of the amperage needed to get X amount of work done.
For electric motors work is done in watts.
Volts * Amps = watts.

Examples of 6000 watts of work:

6s assuming typical voltage drop around 19v ( 19v * 315a = 6000)
4s assuming typical voltage drop around 12.6v (12.6v * 476a = 6000)

The 4s system in this comparison would be near its limits depending on the LiPo and ESC being used. The motor could become saturated at or before this point and not go faster. Only adding heat at that point. Anytime you can run higher voltage and lower amps you should do that....

Part of the reason I wish castle had done a 12s ESC with this new XLX2.
 
To be honest I am not sure if there is a switch for that. I have my expo curve setup where I don't have to ever change anything. Small steering inputs do very little and then if I crank the wheel all the way I can still flip a U-turn in a 2 lane street.

View attachment 128840

You are correct that a 6s system will have less total stress than a 4s system because of the amperage needed to get X amount of work done.
For electric motors work is done in watts.
Volts * Amps = watts.

Examples of 6000 watts of work:

6s assuming typical voltage drop around 19v ( 19v * 315a = 6000)
4s assuming typical voltage drop around 12.6v (12.6v * 476a = 6000)

The 4s system in this comparison would be near its limits depending on the LiPo and ESC being used. The motor could become saturated at or before this point and not go faster. Only adding heat at that point. Anytime you can run higher voltage and lower amps you should do that....

Part of the reason I wish castle had done a 12s ESC with this new XLX2.
Thanks for the response. I have my Steering Expo almost just like yours but depending on the track and purpose (bashing, speed runs, etc) I change the Dual Rate accordingly, if I want the steering to move just a little (like speed runs) I reduce the DR almost to 30%, if there is many curves and I need "more steering" I increase the DR all the way to 100%.
 
Thanks for the response. I have my Steering Expo almost just like yours but depending on the track and purpose (bashing, speed runs, etc) I change the Dual Rate accordingly, if I want the steering to move just a little (like speed runs) I reduce the DR almost to 30%, if there is many curves and I need "more steering" I increase the DR all the way to 100%.
I see what you are saying. I am an oddity in the RC world that I only do speed runs and due to that only run my cars a handful of times per year.
They spend most of their life on the shelf sadly...

I wonder if you could save it on the radio as a different car/model profile with the alternate setting even though it may be the same RX it is connected to? That may be a quick fix.
 
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