New Losi U4???

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I own both and can only tell you my experience.

The DB Pro is an amazing bit of kit, upgraded the braces, servo and put some badlands MX22 SC on. Tightened the steering up and replaced those bushings with bearings, apart from that it's stock.

Lasernut, got rid of the tire off the back and added a wing, changed the servo (Savox). Obviously not owning it long the rest is stock.

Unfortunately Losi were lazy with the Lasernut, I mean, yes, the DB Pro is probably one of the best RC's I own, I love the way it handles and jumps and can take a beating but when you use the same parts from the DB and put them on the heavier, bigger Lasernut with bigger wheels then it's just a bad idea.

The driveshafts snapped after 4 jumps, they can't handle the weight, it's no where near as planted as the DB Pro either. This is going to need some upgrades, well, to a point it's just not worth it, especially owning the DB.

Would I recommend the Lasernut, not really, if you want something bigger and can run 4s / 6s then I'd go with Arrma.

To be fair the DB Pro on 3s is so good, I'd take that over the Lasernut every single time. I'm selling my LN
 
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I upgraded my Lasernut with the Castle MMX & 1512-1800kv combo. I added a 500oz servo and PH 7200mah 100c 4s hardcase battery.

I swapped out the shocks with Proline 6038 Pro Spec shocks & purple springs with 50w F/ 60w R oil & 1.8 pistons. I exchanged all the steering components with SCTE ones, added shims to wheels, and swapped the 12t pinion for a 10t.

Center plastic "brace" has been omitted and aluminum F/R chassis braces have been added. I run a Futaba 4PM & R334SBS for control with a Apex RC Products aux channel switch in Ch3 for the lights.

My vehicle weighs in a 8.68lbs RTR. The suspension is plush and absorbs the rough ripple of terrain and stays well tracked. I have plenty of low end grunt for climbing and negotiating obstacles. I don't need speed beyond 35mph but it's still fast. Jumps are no more than 3ft at full speed and it's surprisingly hard to roll over. I would like to get more suspension drop and travel so I will make my own mods to do so.

I know everyone has there own expectations for this kit but I keep joy jumping to my EXB and other 1/8 kits. This kit (for me) is ideal for rocky & rough terrain, running through the forest floor, and handles very well doing it.

Just my observations!
 
I upgraded my Lasernut with the Castle MMX & 1512-1800kv combo. I added a 500oz servo and PH 7200mah 100c 4s hardcase battery.

I swapped out the shocks with Proline 6038 Pro Spec shocks & purple springs with 50w F/ 60w R oil & 1.8 pistons. I exchanged all the steering components with SCTE ones, added shims to wheels, and swapped the 12t pinion for a 10t.

Center plastic "brace" has been omitted and aluminum F/R chassis braces have been added. I run a Futaba 4PM & R334SBS for control with a Apex RC Products aux channel switch in Ch3 for the lights.

My vehicle weighs in a 8.68lbs RTR. The suspension is plush and absorbs the rough ripple of terrain and stays well tracked. I have plenty of low end grunt for climbing and negotiating obstacles. I don't need speed beyond 35mph but it's still fast. Jumps are no more than 3ft at full speed and it's surprisingly hard to roll over. I would like to get more suspension drop and travel so I will make my own mods to do so.

I know everyone has there own expectations for this kit but I keep joy jumping to my EXB and other 1/8 kits. This kit (for me) is ideal for rocky & rough terrain, running through the forest floor, and handles very well doing it.

Just my observations!

Have pics you can post up? I'd particularly like to see the motor mounted and the clearance you have on the chassis.
 
Have pics you can post up? I'd particularly like to see the motor mounted and the clearance you have on the chassis.

Sure, I'll try to take some tonight.

I too had to raise the CD to clear the motor and used some shock shaft limiters to accomplish this. I also trimmed a little of of the plastic chassis side guard for better clearance.
 
I own both and can only tell you my experience.

The DB Pro is an amazing bit of kit, upgraded the braces, servo and put some badlands MX22 SC on. Tightened the steering up and replaced those bushings with bearings, apart from that it's stock.

Lasernut, got rid of the tire off the back and added a wing, changed the servo (Savox). Obviously not owning it long the rest is stock.

Unfortunately Losi were lazy with the Lasernut, I mean, yes, the DB Pro is probably one of the best RC's I own, I love the way it handles and jumps and can take a beating but when you use the same parts from the DB and put them on the heavier, bigger Lasernut with bigger wheels then it's just a bad idea.

The driveshafts snapped after 4 jumps, they can't handle the weight, it's no where near as planted as the DB Pro either. This is going to need some upgrades, well, to a point it's just not worth it, especially owning the DB.

Would I recommend the Lasernut, not really, if you want something bigger and can run 4s / 6s then I'd go with Arrma.

To be fair the DB Pro on 3s is so good, I'd take that over the Lasernut every single time. I'm selling my LN
what are you selling it for? may be cheaper for me to buy than a bunch of spare parts hahahaha
I upgraded my Lasernut with the Castle MMX & 1512-1800kv combo. I added a 500oz servo and PH 7200mah 100c 4s hardcase battery.

I swapped out the shocks with Proline 6038 Pro Spec shocks & purple springs with 50w F/ 60w R oil & 1.8 pistons. I exchanged all the steering components with SCTE ones, added shims to wheels, and swapped the 12t pinion for a 10t.

Center plastic "brace" has been omitted and aluminum F/R chassis braces have been added. I run a Futaba 4PM & R334SBS for control with a Apex RC Products aux channel switch in Ch3 for the lights.

My vehicle weighs in a 8.68lbs RTR. The suspension is plush and absorbs the rough ripple of terrain and stays well tracked. I have plenty of low end grunt for climbing and negotiating obstacles. I don't need speed beyond 35mph but it's still fast. Jumps are no more than 3ft at full speed and it's surprisingly hard to roll over. I would like to get more suspension drop and travel so I will make my own mods to do so.

I know everyone has there own expectations for this kit but I keep joy jumping to my EXB and other 1/8 kits. This kit (for me) is ideal for rocky & rough terrain, running through the forest floor, and handles very well doing it.

Just my observations!
What was the advantage to changing the steering components over? I'm trying for the life of me to find the exotek 1930 set.
 
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Might want to check the hex adapter and axle pin on the right rear.
I’m having this same issue. Right rear. Bought the nylon hex at his suggestion, didn’t matter. The wheel comes off no matter what I do. I’ve ruined two tires.
Greg from RCDriver had issues keeping his tires on. Make sure you get nylon lock nuts for the wheels. He lost 4 nuts in a single pack. Right rear kept coming loose.
Same thing is happening to me. I’ve ruined two tires and now I can’t run. Barely put 5 packs through it and haven’t even taken it out of my backyard yet!!
 
Is the axle pin ok? Is the hex ok? I've seen scenarios where the pin drills a circle in the hex - causing the nut to spin right off the axle (because the tire doesn't move). I switched to metal hex's on the cars that have this issue.
 
Is the axle pin ok? Is the hex ok? I've seen scenarios where the pin drills a circle in the hex - causing the nut to spin right off the axle (because the tire doesn't move). I switched to metal hex's on the cars that have this issue.
Everything seems fine. Looks just like all of the other hexes. Pin seems in place. I can’t figure it out. It’s only happening to the right rear. Same tire as Greg from RC Driver had problems with.
 
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Everything seems fine. Looks just like all of the other hexes. Pin seems in place. I can’t figure it out. It’s only happening to the right rear. Same tire as Greg from RC Driver had problems with.

Follow it back. If the hex is good and the wheel, hex and axle spin as one (no slipping), the next stop is the diff. That said, this makes no sense if the wheel nut is falling off, unless the wheel nuts aren't locking and simply falling off.
The DB Pro is an amazing bit of kit, upgraded the braces, servo and put some badlands MX22 SC on. Tightened the steering up and replaced those bushings with bearings, apart from that it's stock.

Lasernut, got rid of the tire off the back and added a wing, changed the servo (Savox). Obviously not owning it long the rest is stock.

Unfortunately Losi were lazy with the Lasernut, I mean, yes, the DB Pro is probably one of the best RC's I own, I love the way it handles and jumps and can take a beating but when you use the same parts from the DB and put them on the heavier, bigger Lasernut with bigger wheels then it's just a bad idea.

The driveshafts snapped after 4 jumps, they can't handle the weight, it's no where near as planted as the DB Pro either. This is going to need some upgrades, well, to a point it's just not worth it, especially owning the DB.

Would I recommend the Lasernut, not really, if you want something bigger and can run 4s / 6s then I'd go with Arrma.

To be fair the DB Pro on 3s is so good, I'd take that over the Lasernut every single time. I'm selling my LN
The DB Pro is good on 3S - but I think you'll find some warped cvd's in the near future.
 
I had read in another thread about the use of the SCTE steering and how it tightened up the steering.

I haven't been able to find the Exotek steering kit and I'm not sure if it's still made or just out of stock. But the SCTE is good and that's fine for me.
 
I had read in another thread about the use of the SCTE steering and how it tightened up the steering.

I haven't been able to find the Exotek steering kit and I'm not sure if it's still made or just out of stock. But the SCTE is good and that's fine for me.

I have the Exotek in my DB pro, very nice and precise! I believe its still made but it looks to be OOS everywhere. Maybe you can find one on fleabay. One piece of advise, make sure to use loctite (and let sit for the full 24 hours) in the drag link screws that go through the little bearings, they like to back out.
 
That's the thing. Everything looks good up on the bench. The Wheel hex and pin are set. They spin. I put the wheel on flush with the hex and tightened the nut. Everything spins up well. This last time I even used threadlock on it and made sure it was as tight as I could possibly make it without damaging something. Drove it and checked it every few minutes. Seemed like everything was okay and then it happened again as I started to open things up; only this time I saw that the tire wasn't spinning correctly almost immediately and stopped. The nut was hanging on by a thread and the tire was now loose. The hex nut spinning completely destroyed the rim. This was the spare. The original tire is already shot from the same thing happening the first time.

Another funny thing, may be related, on about my third run, all of the sudden I lost all power to the rear wheels, took out the differential, didn't see a problem, but had "spun metal" and fragments in the box. The ring and pinion looked fine, then I realized that all the metal was the bearing. It was absolutely shredded. It had come apart and been chewed up by the pinion and ring gear. Fortunately I had a Fast Eddy's spare for that.
Follow it back. If the hex is good and the wheel, hex and axle spin as one (no slipping), the next stop is the diff. That said, this makes no sense if the wheel nut is falling off, unless the wheel nuts aren't locking and simply falling off.

The DB Pro is good on 3S - but I think you'll find some warped cvd's in the near future.
 
That's the thing. Everything looks good up on the bench. The Wheel hex and pin are set. They spin. I put the wheel on flush with the hex and tightened the nut. Everything spins up well. This last time I even used threadlock on it and made sure it was as tight as I could possibly make it without damaging something. Drove it and checked it every few minutes. Seemed like everything was okay and then it happened again as I started to open things up; only this time I saw that the tire wasn't spinning correctly almost immediately and stopped. The nut was hanging on by a thread and the tire was now loose. The hex nut spinning completely destroyed the rim. This was the spare. The original tire is already shot from the same thing happening the first time.

Ditch the stock tires and go with a 17mm hex conversion with new rims/tires to fit.
 
That's what I'm worried I'll have to do. Man. I already pour so much into my Kraton to get that thing up and running, I was really hoping that this thing would be good out of the box for awhile. That I wouldn't have to immediately start down the "upgrade path to madness" so soon. I've had it a week and I haven't even gotten it out of my back yard yet! Feels like it just can't handle 4S.
 
Ditch the stock tires and go with a 17mm hex conversion with new rims/tires to fit.
Is there a 17mm hub on any of the losi rigs in this line? I’m not a fan of those slip over 12mm jobs. I’m not familiar with the losi line yet.
I have the Exotek in my DB pro, very nice and precise! I believe its still made but it looks to be OOS everywhere. Maybe you can find one on fleabay. One piece of advise, make sure to use loctite (and let sit for the full 24 hours) in the drag link screws that go through the little bearings, they like to back out.
A main was out of stock but allowed backorders so I jumped on that. I’ve been watching ebay and saved a search as well but so far nothing.
 
Is there a 17mm hub on any of the losi rigs in this line? I’m not a fan of those slip over 12mm jobs. I’m not familiar with the losi line yet.

Not that I know of. I run these and so do a few others in here:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/hot-ra...hub-adapters-4-6mm-offset-hrawh17hs01/p649937

They hold up to 4s all day long and the 2-3 times I ran 6s which was stupidly insane! . You will need a small spacer on the 12mm side to fill some of the deep gap these have, otherwise they wont spin freely, they rub the carrier. I eventually ended up using a spacer washer. They work perfectly though!
 
Not that I know of. I run these and so do a few others in here:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/hot-ra...hub-adapters-4-6mm-offset-hrawh17hs01/p649937

They hold up to 4s all day long and the 2-3 times I ran 6s which was stupidly insane! . You will need a small spacer on the 12mm side to fill some of the deep gap these have, otherwise they wont spin freely, they rub the carrier. I eventually ended up using a spacer washer. They work perfectly though!
Gonna try these when/if I strip the stock ones
https://m2cracing.net/losi/318-m2c-7150-losi-scte-4x4-17mm-adaptor-kit-sku7150.html
 
I think the problem with the front drive shafts is the cvd runs out of travel before the chassis hits the ground (tires too big...). Also they can be over steered. I havnt broken anything yet but have seen the carnage on yt. The inner bearing on these need to be bigger so they could have used a larger cvd wirh more travel. remove the front shocks and servo horn and play with the steering and suspension travel and you will see what I mean. Also notice a shining wear mark around the drive shaft near the ball from it bottom out on the axle...
 
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