Big Rock New member..need advice!

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Very nice! Looks awesome. A street rig definitely has it's pros!!
Hell yeah it does.i don't have to worry about the issues that bashers have.i can't tell ya how much I hear all the time the questions that the answer is pretty clear.like number one complaint is " bro I just did a 100 ft jump why is my diffs stripped.lol or why is my spur gear toast.answer is clear .so us speed runners really don't deal with those kind of problems.but we have other things to worry about mainly crashing hard and destroying your rig to a bloody pulp.😭that's no bueno but if you have your street runner set up nice and do a few simple checks before a speed pass you should be ok.i actually take a walk first up and down the track and remove any obstacles that I think will mess with my runs.gravel pebbles rocks twigs even a leaf.one time I skidded 30 ft on a leaf .just be cautious.no your surroundings.make sure every wheel and tei rods are tight .wheel bearings clean running smooth.check your control arms .servo linkage .check everything.do it at home then do a few test runs and if all good then proceed with speed ..rip that street up and fly baby fly.nothing beats the feeling of seeing your machine fly by you at high speeds.sounds great to.im a night speed runner that's why I love alot of l.e.d lights
 

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Sound normal???
It does sound a bit clunky, but it's hard to tell. Have you pulled it apart yet? Make sure you loctite the screw holding the right rear axle to the driveshaft. It appears loose already.

If you pull the power module and remove the cover, you can check the pinion/spur gear mesh. While it's out, just check that the rear diff is meshed properly by spinning both driveshafts/outdrives the same direction and the input gear spins freely all the way around. If the ring/input gear mesh is off, that can add a lot drag or lead to premature failure. Same goes for the front, obviously.

The ESC is finicky. It's not recommended to use adapters on your battery if you want to maximize runtime.
 

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Thanks for the input! Honestly just stressing about the diff! Soooo many videos of failures. Just painted a bad picture that it's going to be broken more than I get to enjoy it.
But ya...it's coming and I'm excited to let it rip. I've watched tons of content about things to do when I first get it...and how to rebuild the diff...and what upgrades to get if needed. It's nothing I can't tackle. But let's hope she runs good and is reliable.
Tons of people love these trucks...it's just the bad stories that stick out unfortunately!
People like drama which is why you hear bad stories more often than not, and the majority of the issues are user error to begin with.

The differential in the 3S line is very simple. There are four gears inside and four pins along with two O-rings and two washers. That’s it. The pins and the gears are all the same size so it’s hard to get them mixed up.

Once you get the car really all you need to do is open the differential and top it off with 10k oil to about 4 mm from the top. You don’t need to worry about oil viscosity’s yet. You wouldn’t notice the difference anyway honestly. Same goes with the shocks (50wt or 500k oil). Often these things are air shipped so rarely are the shocks and differentials more than half-2/3rds full. Wouldn’t want the seals blowing with pressure change you know. There are a few other things like sitting end points with the remote and loc tightening the axles to the driveshafts. Pretty easy to do, just look for the right RazorRC videos as I mentioned below.

Yes, the differential ring gear is composite plastic but it is plenty tough enough for the application, as is the spur gear. And yes, there are a lot of metal upgrades for these cars… but then you’re adding weight on top of expense. Part of the durability of these plastic cars is how lite they are. If you want a heavy duty metal basher get a 6s car.

When you get the car make sure to pull up all the razorRC videos on setting up your new 3s Arrma. It is not near as complicated or involved as you think. People just make it seem that way. If you have basic mechanical skills you’ll get the hang of it quick.

Enjoy bud! The big rock is one of the best of the 3S lines I think. You will have a blast with it.
 

2wheelsonly

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It does sound a bit clunky, but it's hard to tell. Have you pulled it apart yet? Make sure you loctite the screw holding the right rear axle to the driveshaft. It appears loose already.

If you pull the power module and remove the cover, you can check the pinion/spur gear mesh. While it's out, just check that the rear diff is meshed properly by spinning both driveshafts/outdrives the same direction and the input gear spins freely all the way around. If the ring/input gear mesh is off, that can add a lot drag or lead to premature failure. Same goes for the front, obviously.

The ESC is finicky. It's not recommended to use adapters on your battery if you want to maximize runtime.
I pulled it all apart today. The diff seems perfect...mesh appears good...spins freely but not loose.
I "think" the pinion and spur is set good. It's definitely not too tight. There is a tiny bit of play when spinning the spur by hand. But it does suck that you can't see the 2 gears when you put the cover on. And with the cover off...well the spur is kinda sitting there loose.
Either way...the noise is 100% coming from the pinion/spur...it just kind of amplifies thru the plastic chassis.
People like drama which is why you hear bad stories more often than not, and the majority of the issues are user error to begin with.

The differential in the 3S line is very simple. There are four gears inside and four pins along with two O-rings and two washers. That’s it. The pins and the gears are all the same size so it’s hard to get them mixed up.

Once you get the car really all you need to do is open the differential and top it off with 10k oil to about 4 mm from the top. You don’t need to worry about oil viscosity’s yet. You wouldn’t notice the difference anyway honestly. Same goes with the shocks (50wt or 500k oil). Often these things are air shipped so rarely are the shocks and differentials more than half-2/3rds full. Wouldn’t want the seals blowing with pressure change you know. There are a few other things like sitting end points with the remote and loc tightening the axles to the driveshafts. Pretty easy to do, just look for the right RazorRC videos as I mentioned below.

Yes, the differential ring gear is composite plastic but it is plenty tough enough for the application, as is the spur gear. And yes, there are a lot of metal upgrades for these cars… but then you’re adding weight on top of expense. Part of the durability of these plastic cars is how lite they are. If you want a heavy duty metal basher get a 6s car.

When you get the car make sure to pull up all the razorRC videos on setting up your new 3s Arrma. It is not near as complicated or involved as you think. People just make it seem that way. If you have basic mechanical skills you’ll get the hang of it quick.

Enjoy bud! The big rock is one of the best of the 3S lines I think. You will have a blast with it.
Thanks for the input. I did pull it apart...loctite the axles...set the esc and end point.. I've watched so many videos before getting this thing to familiarize myself with it.
Took it out for the 2nd time today...its a beast of a truck.
It rarely wheelies..not sure if that's normal or if I have my slipper set too loose. Otherwise it seems to put the power down great so It doesn't seem like it's slipping. I'll spin all 4 wheels on asphalt..
 
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IMO, 90% of problems with the 3S line could be avoided by just setting your slipper correctly. Spur gears, input gear, broken driveshafts, centershaft, popping clips off the 4S line... you name it.

Here's the easy way to set your slipper -- loosen it until your car sucks, and then tighten it 3/8 of a turn. Done.
 

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I pulled it all apart today. The diff seems perfect...mesh appears good...spins freely but not loose.
I "think" the pinion and spur is set good. It's definitely not too tight. There is a tiny bit of play when spinning the spur by hand. But it does suck that you can't see the 2 gears when you put the cover on. And with the cover off...well the spur is kinda sitting there loose.
Either way...the noise is 100% coming from the pinion/spur...it just kind of amplifies thru the plastic chassis.

Thanks for the input. I did pull it apart...loctite the axles...set the esc and end point.. I've watched so many videos before getting this thing to familiarize myself with it.
Took it out for the 2nd time today...its a beast of a truck.
It rarely wheelies..not sure if that's normal or if I have my slipper set too loose. Otherwise it seems to put the power down great so It doesn't seem like it's slipping. I'll spin all 4 wheels on asphalt..
The big rock has long wheelbase chassis. It just doesn’t wheelie as easily as a short wheel base granite and Vorteks. Have you tried it on a higher traction surface?

Your slipper maybe a bit loose but it’s better than it being too tight. I always go by the ‘screaming at me’ method. If the truck screams or screeches on hard acceleration it’s too loose, if it rockets onto its back without hesitation it’s too tight, if it chirps and then takes off… perfect.

Whatever you do, do not tighten the slipper down all the way. So many people break them doing that. I tighten mine until I feel the slightest resistance and then test it. If it sounds loose i’ll tighten very slightly and try again. I have a set of little short hex drivers that I use so I can adjust it while it’s all together. I simply pull the driveshaft and adjust.
 
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That's a normal noise !!like mentioned that's your spur and pinnion gear not a crunchy gear.mine has that same noise.pay close attention to how it sounds and reamember that same noise .when something goes wrong with your spur or pinnion gear then you'll notice a change in sound .I learned to get a perfect mesh by using a peice of Paper .place it between the spur and pinnion and you should be able to pull it out with minimum resistance..it's a feel and a little bit of sound you need to recognize to know when it's set right.
That's a normal noise !!like mentioned that's your spur and pinnion gear not a crunchy gear.mine has that same noise.pay close attention to how it sounds and reamember that same noise .when something goes wrong with your spur or pinnion gear then you'll notice a change in sound .I learned to get a perfect mesh by using a peice of Paper .place it between the spur and pinnion and you should be able to pull it out with minimum resistance..it's a feel and a little bit of sound you need to recognize to know when it's set right.
After a few runs I always check and make sure my motor is still tight and mesh is still correct.they do make a motor mount for the rear and that helps a lot for bashers.because it supports the motor from shifting or bending on hard impacts.also helps with torque twist.which can bend stock aluminum motor mount.
 
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Velodromed

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Here's the easy way to set your slipper -- loosen it until your car sucks, and then tighten it 3/8 of a turn. Done.
This is great and made me laugh 🙃
One of the best explanations I’ve seen yet though.
 
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This is great and made me laugh 🙃
One of the best explanations I’ve seen yet though.
Yeah that's funny but not sure about the 3/8 turn lol some might not know how much they loosened it and 3/8 turn might not be enough .you might go from suck to suck lol I won't follow that advice .I'll stick to mine cause ik it works 🤣🤣🤣🤣
 

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It sure takes a beating. My bashing is minimal compared to that abuse!
RCdude 81 drives awesome. But he usually breaks much with most RTR's out the box.
And usually upgrades with all the $M2C$ parts available. He has a business arangement with HH and M2C. He tests M2C prototyped parts before they are released. He also gets the pre-released Arrma's to demo.
BRCC is a very popular 4x4.


Those Slippers.....:unsure:
 
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RCdude 81 drives awesome. But he usually breaks much with most RTR's out the box.
And usually upgrades with all the $M2C$ parts available. He has a business arangement with HH and M2C. He tests M2C prototyped parts before they are released. He also gets the pre-released Arrma's to demo.
BRCC is a very popular 4x4.


Those Slippers.....:unsure:

RCdude 81 drives awesome. But he usually breaks much with most RTR's out the box.
And usually upgrades with all the $M2C$ parts available. He has a business arangement with HH and M2C. He tests M2C prototyped parts before they are released. He also gets the pre-released Arrma's to demo.
BRCC is a very popular 4x4.


Those Slippers.....:unsure:
Many fear touching a slipper clutch assembly.its actually very simple .not hard at all.experience is the key .after you done one time you'll know.
 

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^^^
+1.
Have many slippered rigs here. I gave up on them. One reason I don't have/want an Arrma 4x4.
But yes, If you have a slippered rig, you absolutely must understand them, adjusting and all. It affects driveabilty and power response. They get worn out and need attention. The slipper wear, weight, Lipo volts and terrain traction, tires, all get factored in. Needing slipper adjustments here and there.
Best to get comfortable doing this. Everyone has their own method. What works for them. No 2 rigs are ever adjusted the same.
Just that the baseline setting, out the box, setting seems to be what most stay with.:unsure: Until the slipper gets wonky. Many not knowing its even the slipper.
I feel they are rarely set and forget most of the time. I find they they are not constistent from bash to bash.
When they get wet they feel loose and whine more so ( slipping). Even humid conditions affects them.
Need to have an ear for them.
I always found myself adjusting them when out in the field.
Slipper pads end up getting Glazed. They are consumable parts. Much like the clutch in a scale car. Slippers can get very hot, if too loose. Too tight/locked and they are doing their job.
A slipper Clutch protects the drivetrain from damage as well as controlling power on demand.
It is designed to slip ever so briefly. Finding that right setting can be elusive for some of us.
 
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RCdude 81 drives awesome
RCdude and Duperdash are my favorites to watch. Duperdash mostly, his driving skill amazes me. I spend a lot of time studying his skate Park videos watching and listening for the different variations, trying to figure out how he does exactly what. I’ve learned so much from his videos. RCdude bashes on terrain more similar to what I run across but doesn’t quite have the technical appeal. Both are on a skill level that I can only hope to partially achieve.
 
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^^^
+1.
Have many slippered rigs here. I gave up on them. One reason I don't have/want an Arrma 4x4.
But yes, If you have a slippered rig, you absolutely must understand them, adjusting and all. It affects driveabilty and power response. They get worn out and need attention. The slipper wear, weight, Lipo volts and terrain traction, tires, all get factored in. Needing slipper adjustments here and there.
Best to get comfortable doing this. Everyone has their own method. What works for them. No 2 rigs are ever adjusted the same.
Just that the baseline setting, out the box, setting seems to be what most stay with.:unsure: Until the slipper gets wonky. Many not knowing its even the slipper.
I feel they are rarely set and forget most of the time. I find they they are not constistent from bash to bash.
When they get wet they feel loose and whine more so ( slipping). Even humid conditions affects them.
Need to have an ear for them.
I always found myself adjusting them when out in the field.
Slipper pads end up getting Glazed. They are consumable parts. Much like the clutch in a scale car. Slippers can get very hot, if too loose. Too tight/locked and they are doing their job.
A slipper Clutch protects the drivetrain from damage as well as controlling power on demand.
It is designed to slip ever so briefly. Finding that right setting can be elusive for some of us.
Thank God I only speed run lol none of those issues for me .as matter fact I actually just bought a slipper eliminator from HR can't wait to throw that in but the only down side is I have to use a jado spur gear which means putting in a Traxxsas part😭 but that's ok because I don't need a slipper clutch so it's what needs to be done 👍
Thank God I only speed run lol none of those issues for me .as matter fact I actually just bought a slipper eliminator from HR can't wait to throw that in but the only down side is I have to use a jado spur gear which means putting in a Traxxsas part😭 but that's ok because I don't need a slipper clutch so it's what needs to be done 👍
I could make my own spool but for now Ill check that eliminator out first it's cheap enough 30.00 for both .not worried about the loot considering the cost of diffs and other poop that can go wrong if my actually not if more like when it shits the bed.lol
 
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Ok here is the best way to figure out a slipper clutch assembly.are ya ready..ok so the slipper clutch assembly is like a woman do you want it to slippery but you also don't want it to tight..you want it just right..and like a woman no slipper clutch is the same..I hope this helps.when you put it in this perspective you'll be a pro .👍😁🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Ok here is the best way to figure out a slipper clutch assembly.are ya ready..ok so the slipper clutch assembly is like a woman do you want it to slippery but you also don't want it to tight..you want it just right..and like a woman no slipper clutch is the same..I hope this helps.when you put it in this perspective you'll be a pro .👍😁🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Let's rewind .. correction.you don't want it to tight
 

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The ESC is finicky. It's not recommended to use adapters on your battery if you want to maximize runtime.
+1
Never use a Connector Adapter between the ESC>< Lipo.
Adapters are only used at the Charger for charging purposes.
I would make sure to address this ASAP.:cool:
The big rock has long wheelbase chassis. It just doesn’t wheelie as easily as a short wheel base granite and Vorteks. Have you tried it on a higher traction surface?

Your slipper maybe a bit loose but it’s better than it being too tight. I always go by the ‘screaming at me’ method. If the truck screams or screeches on hard acceleration it’s too loose, if it rockets onto its back without hesitation it’s too tight, if it chirps and then takes off… perfect.

Whatever you do, do not tighten the slipper down all the way. So many people break them doing that. I tighten mine until I feel the slightest resistance and then test it. If it sounds loose i’ll tighten very slightly and try again. I have a set of little short hex drivers that I use so I can adjust it while it’s all together. I simply pull the driveshaft and adjust.
If a slippered rig wants to wheelie no matter the tires, WB length, Power etc., the slipper is locked too much IMHO. Not doing its job.
On my One TA rig I set the slipper by giving the rig a hard fast push backwards , then quickly hard throttle it towards me. To see how the slipper will respond to actual load. I do this several times then drive it around to evaluate it. Repeat as needed. Tightening or loosening the slipper.
I want the slipper to briefly whine/chirp (slip) aprox 1/4-1/2 foot depending on the traction I am looking for.
I rather hear a short chirp than a long whiny noise.
Much is personal preference. But Too loose and it will be a dog, and too tight it is just locked up and doing nothing for you.
Once the slipper gets warmed up, it can behave differently. That's why I rather dial it in when out bashing it, running it. On the bench is not best for me.
 
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+1
Never use a Connector Adapter between the ESC>< Lipo.
Adapters are only used at the Charger for charging purposes.
I would make sure to address this ASAP.:cool:

If a slippered rig wants to wheelie no matter the tires, WB length, Power etc., the slipper is locked too much IMHO. Not doing its job.
On my One TA rig I set the slipper by giving the rig a hard fast push backwards , then quickly hard throttle it towards me. To see how the slipper will respond to actual load. I do this several times then drive it around to evaluate it. Repeat as needed.
I want the slipper to briefly whine/chirp (slip) aprox 1/4-1/2 foot depending on the traction I am looking for.
I rather hear a short chirp than a long whiny noise.
Much is personal preference. But Too loose and it will be a dog, and too tight it is just locked up and doing nothing for you.
Yup you don't want it to bark .also to the comment above .I see nothing wrong with using adapters between esc and lipo .I've been using them for ever and never had a problem.as long as the cables are the same rating.
Yup you don't want it to bark .also to the comment above .I see nothing wrong with using adapters between esc and lipo .I've been using them for ever and never had a problem.as long as the cables are the same rating.
I actually use adapters in all my RC s from my boats to my drones to my cars and trucks never had a issue.i beleive that statement above is misleading people to think you can't when I and a lot of my friends at my local hobby shop do the same .I have tons of lipos and I'm sure not going to change all of them .I like being able to change when I want.my lipos are all perfect .charging fine and all speed controls are fine ..so go ahead and use adapters 👍😁
 

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Once the slipper gets warmed up, it can behave differently. That's why I rather dial it in when out bashing it, running it. On the bench is not best for me
I did not realize the technical reason but always told my wife they have to ‘warm up a bit’. The slipper seems to engage better once it’s running a few minutes and warms up…but runs worse when it gets too hot, if that makes sense.
 
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I did not realize the technical reason but always told my wife they have to ‘warm up a bit’. The slipper seems to engage better once it’s running a few minutes and warms up…but runs worse when it gets too hot, if that makes sense.
That's what she says🤣🤣🤣 Warm me up baby
Never adjust a slipper on a RC stand . wheels must be on the ground under load .. last week I was putting in new slipper pads and a new spring and my wife looks at the spur gear and pinnion and grabs a can of WD -40 and says they look really dry I'll fix that.i was in the bathroom at the time and ate burrito s the night before so I was going to be awhile but when I heard my wife say that I swear I jumped off the toilet bursted through the door like superman and leaped at that can of WD-40 so fast lol.thank God she didn't spray my gears.can you imagine slipper pads and the whole assembly full of that crap.i didn't yell at her cause it's not her fault.but I did let her know why it's no bueno to that. my poor wife she's scared of WD-40 .not even sure where she got it from because I don't use that stuff anywhere near my toys.i meant Man Toys😁👍
 
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I own a V2 Big Rock and V3 Senton brushless along with 3 Mega Brushed trucks. The only issue I have ever had is the servo on the V2 Big Rock failed after a short time. The V3 has an upgraded servo as in my V3 senton and there has been no issues. The trucks are extremely durable and have been put through the ringer. The only thing I added to both the brushless models was a motor support available on ebay. If you like to jump the trucks as I do it supports the weight of the motor and alleviates stress on the motor mount plate. There is a clocked and standard version that fit perfectly and worth the $10 investment IMO.
 
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