Kraton New person looking for advice...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Kind of funny, I've been running RC for over 20 years and it wasn't until I started running 3S/4S/6S electric that out of balance tires posed much of an issue. Now it's practically a necessity for me. I bought some of that golfers lead tape and an associated hand held balancer. Seems to get me close enough to not have tires going crazy.
 
I am going to take it apart later today and confirm that it is one or both of those gears, then probably just do a $100 order on things I was planning to get in August anyway. I want the wheel balancer and toe & camber gauges because that is part of the fun of this for me, or will be once I have the tools and stuff for it over time, is setting up the car perfectly. I am also thinking that the tires being out of balance might have contributed to stripping these gears. I vented the tires and put tape over the holes, and that tape probably threw them off balance.

So... do these gears strip fairly regularly? Do other gears go bad fairly regularly? I don't really want to order expensive A Arms unless I actually break one, and the way I am driving I am more likely to strip gears and cause wear and tear damage than actually break things. What parts are most likely to give out, or give out regularly, like certain gears, etc. I am already half way to $99 with the gears and other stuff I already want, so another $50 worth of spare parts that are known to commonly wear out would be a smart thing to get.

So far I am getting the gears, differential oil, wheel balancer, toe & camber guages, and shock oil (because I am sure I will eventually need it). Is there anything else, like the shock oil, that I don't need now but definitely need to have if I am going to be into this, or parts that are very likely to wear out like certain gears, etc.

Remember, this is my first car so I don't have anything other than the car, batteries, and charger. So any critical tools or things like wheel balancers, etc, are all things I'll be wanting for the future.
I would get some good hex tips. 2mm, 2.5mm being the crucial ones. A whole set if you feel you want it.

Once you get to the issue at hand we can tell you better how to prevent it. It may be your plastic spur gear. If so get a metal one. It may be your diff. It may be sun gears. We don’t really have a way to help much more until you get to the root cause. You may need some shims in the end.

Have you thought about sealed bearings? If running in dirty areas, that will be good to have.

Other than diff and shock oil, you will also need some grease. You can get that from a local auto parts store if you prefer. I’m not sure just how remote you are.
 
There is an O'Rielly in town, it's one of the few stores the town has, haha.

I am going to take it apart and figure out which gear is bad sometime today. I'll ask about it here again once I know what it actually is. I realized as soon as I heard that clicking that the way I am driving it is putting a huge strain on the drivetrain. I generally staying on an area of soft dirt that isn't as bumpy as most of the other terrain here. As soon as I figured out how to do "stunts" like donuts, wheelies, spins, all kinds of power moves, sometimes at full power, digging into the soft dirt constantly and throwing out 3-5foot rooster tails of dirt... I was trying to not break it and didn't even think of how much strain that was on plastic gears until I hear the clicking. So that is how I am driving it for now. It's never leaving the ground, and I've only flipped it lightly 3 times in 5.5 charges and it never rolled over more than once. So it's not likely that I am going to break anything, it's much more likely that I am going to wear out drivetrain parts.

I can see that I'm not going to have any problem getting to $99 of things I absolutely need, so I guess I don't have to wait until August to get the car going again. I just need to figure out what the smartest things to get are... and then not push it nearly as hard once it is going again and just focus on learning to precisely control it at lower speeds, because I still suck at that. Haha!

A good example of the kinds of things I was doing too it, that I won't be doing anymore until I have more money and easier access to parts, was that I figured out how to "slalom" back and forth down the soft dirt, digging the back tires into the dirt back and forth kicking out rooster tails on full power kind of hopping left and right down the soft dirt path. I think this little move, a lot over like 4 charges, might have been big part of what killed a gear.

PS I figured I would explain this because I know communities like this, and that this car is new and already being criticized for the A Arms. Mine stripped a gear on my second day of using it, but I really was putting massive strain on the drive train non stop for 4 charges.
 
Last edited:
There is an O'Rielly in town, it's one of the few stores the town has, haha.

I am going to take it apart and figure out which gear is bad sometime today. I'll ask about it here again once I know what it actually is. I realized as soon as I heard that clicking that the way I am driving it is putting a huge strain on the drivetrain. I generally staying on an area of soft dirt that isn't as bumpy as most of the other terrain here. As soon as I figured out how to do "stunts" like donuts, wheelies, spins, all kinds of power moves, sometimes at full power, digging into the soft dirt constantly and throwing out 3-5foot rooster tails of dirt... I was trying to not break it and didn't even think of how much strain that was on plastic gears until I hear the clicking. So that is how I am driving it for now. It's never leaving the ground, and I've only flipped it lightly 3 times in 5.5 charges and it never rolled over more than once. So it's not likely that I am going to break anything, it's much more likely that I am going to wear out drivetrain parts.

I can see that I'm not going to have any problem getting to $99 of things I absolutely need, so I guess I don't have to wait until August to get the car going again. I just need to figure out what the smartest things to get are... and then not push it nearly as hard once it is going again and just focus on learning to precisely control it at lower speeds, because I still suck at that. Haha!

A good example of the kinds of things I was doing too it, that I won't be doing anymore until I have more money and easier access to parts, was that I figured out how to "slalom" back and forth down the soft dirt, digging the back tires into the dirt back and forth kicking out rooster tails on full power kind of hopping left and right down the soft dirt path. I think this little move, a lot over like 4 charges, might have been big part of what killed a gear.
Since you’re running in soft dirt, sealed bearings would be a must. Fast Eddy or AVID are the preferred brands.
 
What are hex tips? And sealed bearings for what? The bearings sound like a good way to reach the free shipping level since it sounds like the stock ones might go bad here in the dirt.
 
What are hex tips? And sealed bearings for what? The bearings sound like a good way to reach the free shipping level since it sounds like the stock ones might go bad here in the dirt.

Hex tips are Allen key replacements so you can use a cordless screwdriver instead of just manual hand tools.

The sealed bearings keep the dirt out of the inner bearing. That would be a must do for me in dirty areas.

Just one more thing. If you’re afraid to SEND IT, let Rich show you the way...

 
I ran into the most simple problem right away, haha. Is there something somewhere that gives you at least some idea of how to take things apart on the car? That video I think is all I need to do all of that, and get it out, that looks easy. I can probably find a video on rebuilding the differential if that's what it is, but I don't even know simple things and some type of manual or guide would help a lot. The manual that comes with the car is just a quick start guide and the exploding view only goes so far. I am stuck right away on how to remove that metal crossbar that the car in the video doesn't have. I thought I would just unscrew the black plastic end, but that seems to be more of an adjuster and not how you take it off.

Also, in that video he just seems to quickly pull the driveshaft out... mine seems too be in there pretty good. Is there any kind of guide out there about how to work on Arrma cars in general that would have all of this basic stuff in it?
 
With the driveshaft you pinch the rear section and slide it forward toward the front of the car. There’s a spring inside that holds tension on it.
 
I ran into the most simple problem right away, haha. Is there something somewhere that gives you at least some idea of how to take things apart on the car? That video I think is all I need to do all of that, and get it out, that looks easy. I can probably find a video on rebuilding the differential if that's what it is, but I don't even know simple things and some type of manual or guide would help a lot. The manual that comes with the car is just a quick start guide and the exploding view only goes so far. I am stuck right away on how to remove that metal crossbar that the car in the video doesn't have. I thought I would just unscrew the black plastic end, but that seems to be more of an adjuster and not how you take it off.

Also, in that video he just seems to quickly pull the driveshaft out... mine seems too be in there pretty good. Is there any kind of guide out there about how to work on Arrma cars in general that would have all of this basic stuff in it?
Yep the center driveshaft can be a b!tch sometimes but start with the rear and push it forward until it clears the red gear then pull up and back to get the front to come out. If it comes out in two pieces, not a big deal.
 
Ok, thanks. I just tested it a little bit. But I can't get too that part because I can't even figure out how to get the red aluminum cross bar out of the way. I can see ways you might remove it, but they all seem more complicated than how easily most things seem to be done on these Arrma cars.

The other thing I am wondering about is if this rear differential is very simple, like the two gear transmission I remember seeing in a video, or if is going to be complicate to take apart, put new gears in, and put together again. I can't find any kind of guides or instructions for how to do these things. Just the exploding view and a few YouTube videos of people working on different cars... but not many. Is there any resource anywhere they teaches you how the Arrma cars come apart and how to work on them?

I would think the manual that comes with it would at least tell you how to take the crossbar off, but it doesn't.
 
Ok, thanks. I just tested it a little bit. But I can't get too that part because I can't even figure out how to get the red aluminum cross bar out of the way. I can see ways you might remove it, but they all seem more complicated than how easily most things seem to be done on these Arrma cars.

The other thing I am wondering about is if this rear differential is very simple, like the two gear transmission I remember seeing in a video, or if is going to be complicate to take apart, put new gears in, and put together again. I can't find any kind of guides or instructions for how to do these things. Just the exploding view and a few YouTube videos of people working on different cars... but not many. Is there any resource anywhere they teaches you how the Arrma cars come apart and how to work on them?

I would think the manual that comes with it would at least tell you how to take the crossbar off, but it doesn't.

I don’t own a 4S so mine doesn’t have the chassis brace, but it looks like there is a single screw to remove it from the rear tower, circled in red below

41696


As far as the diffs, I rebuilt mine for the first time last week and they’re pretty simple. Big thing is pay attention to if you have shims (flat washers) and where they go. Mine had one on each side of the diff on the output shafts. Yours may be different. The idea is that when it’s done and put back together that you can twist the output shafts smoothly. There will be resistance and it’s not going to be free spinning. The point is that there isn’t any wiggle to the output shafts and they turn smooth. If they won’t turn or it is crunchy, you have debris inside and it needs cleaned more.

 
Ok, that screw makes a lot of sense. The one in front isn't a screw, so I assumed the one in back wasn't either.

Thanks for that video, hopefully I can figure it out from that. There isn't even an exploding view of the rear differential on the Kraton exploding view, it just shows the whole thing put together. That makes this a lot harder when I go to try and put it back together, there isn't even a picture to show me how the parts go back together.

This is not surprising at all that this happened too me. I am seeing now that this is probably the most difficult thing to fix that could have possibly broken, after just a day and a half. Hahahaha! The last 9 months of my life have been absolute hell and it is just continuing with the car that was supposed to be the beginning of the end of it, haha.

I don't suppose they just sell a full rear differential I could just put into it, do they? This might be the one thing that I can't fix myself... which makes perfect sense! Hahahahaha!!!!!

If I could just get a full differential to pop in this would be easy, and I could fix the other one later when I get better at this. Without even a picture to show me how it goes back together... I don't see this going well.
 
Ok, that screw makes a lot of sense. The one in front isn't a screw, so I assumed the one in back wasn't either.

Thanks for that video, hopefully I can figure it out from that. There isn't even an exploding view of the rear differential on the Kraton exploding view, it just shows the whole thing put together. That makes this a lot harder when I go to try and put it back together, there isn't even a picture to show me how the parts go back together.

This is not surprising at all that this happened too me. I am seeing now that this is probably the most difficult thing to fix that could have possibly broken, after just a day and a half. Hahahaha! The last 9 months of my life have been absolute hell and it is just continuing with the car that was supposed to be the beginning of the end of it, haha.

I don't suppose they just sell a full rear differential I could just put into it, do they? This might be the one thing that I can't fix myself... which makes perfect sense! Hahahahaha!!!!!

If I could just get a full differential to pop in this would be easy, and I could fix the other one later when I get better at this. Without even a picture to show me how it goes back together... I don't see this going well.
They sure do! Check out the link below:

Jenny’s RC
 
Ahh... thanks. I will do it that way. Part of the reason I got into this was to give myself something to do and work on the cars, but this seems pretty big as a first job and I think I'll just replace the whole thing once I know what it is that is damaged in there. So I guess I will go back to trying to take it apart and get the rear differential out. That looks easy from the video, I just like to be certain of how I am supposed to be taking it apart so I don't make things worse:)

PS Hmm... that's not how the crossbar comes off. That's not a screw, that's a hinge like on the front.
Also, the drive shaft on this car is going through an aluminum covered ring. Even if you slide it forward out of the socket, the ring in the center is still keeping it in place. There isn't any kind of beginners guide out there for this?
 
Last edited:
I actually expected the manual the car came with to be mostly about how it comes apart and goes back together, but there is nothing at all about that in there. Where do you find this out? That should have been what the manual that came with the car was about. I was expecting it to have instructions for how to take it apart and put it back together again. It doesn't even tell you how to remove the cross bar. Arrma doesn't make any kind of manual at all about how to work on the cars?
 
Unless it's a kit all you get is a exploded view not only Arrma but just about every manufacturer is the same way. If you want instructions on putting something together you should buy a kit not a RTR (ready to run) assembled RC.
 
Unless it's a kit all you get is a exploded view not only Arrma but just about every manufacturer is the same way. If you want instructions on putting something together you should buy a kit not a RTR (ready to run) assembled RC.

But they break, and parts wear out. Gears don't last 2 days if you drive it hard. How is someone who gets one of these cars supposed to have any idea of how to even take it apart? The exploding view helps a lot in putting it back together, but doesn't do you any good in taking it apart to fix it. If I had known that it only came with instructions as a kit, I would have gotten that so I had the instructions. I can't really do this without any instructions AT ALL about how to even remove the cross bar!

So the kits are for the beginners, and the RTRs are for the experienced people? They really should advertise that better. Is there any way to get the kit instructions from Arrma so that I have instructions for how to own the car? I can't believe it doesn't come with that. Nothing at all in the manual. Can you get these kit instructions from Arrma??? How does anyone ever learn how to do this?

PS If anyone from Arrma is reading this... it's been over 24 hours of trying, and I STILL can't find any hint anywhere of how to even just remove the crossbar...
 
I’m assuming it is an easy task to take the center support brace out, or else it would be documented online. Maybe @bicketybam or @Rich Duperbash can chime in here with an answer
I don't have one but I can't image it's rocket science. I would use the the two round things found on either side of your nose ?
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top