NEW POWERHOBBY DIFF HOUSING

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K-BASH

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Mojave
  3. Notorious
  4. Senton 6s
  5. Senton 3s
  6. Typhon 6s
Never seen these PH diff housings.cheapest aluminum housing available. Looks to have more material where it counts than the HR housing.its on my to buy list.

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I've been using these bad boys for few months now and some very serious bashing so far so good just make sure to shim and your good!! Plus I love the price compared to other bulk heads they are literally half the price....as for the weight Idk I've got 2 on my kraton 6s exb...running the 160amp smart and 1250kv 22t pinion 👌

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I've been using these bad boys for few months now and some very serious bashing so far so good just make sure to shim and your good!! Plus I love the price compared to other bulk heads they are literally half the price....as for the weight Idk I've got 2 on my kraton 6s exb...running the 160amp smart and 1250kv 22t pinion 👌

View attachment 197245
Someone is learning the hard way why you don't use stainless steel screws I see.
 
Someone is learning the hard way why you don't use stainless steel screws I see.
Bah whatever man I use them no problem. Just use quality tools. I used MIP but any quality tool is fine. The black screws look horrible rusty, albeit they are stronger. But either screw is way stronger than the plastic or aluminum you screw into so it doesn't matter.
 
I've been using these bad boys for few months now and some very serious bashing so far so good just make sure to shim and your good!! Plus I love the price compared to other bulk heads they are literally half the price....as for the weight Idk I've got 2 on my kraton 6s exb...running the 160amp smart and 1250kv 22t pinion 👌

View attachment 197245
I don't think weight is any consideration. QC matters. Good find. May have to check these out. A game changer for my wallet. I have 7 6s rigs here. All plastic Bulkheads. Don't tragically hate them. Guess I been lucky with Stock. But alloy is an advantage for a few of my rigs.
 
I don't think weight is any consideration. QC matters. Good find. May have to check these out. A game changer for my wallet. I have 7 6s rigs here. All plastic Bulkheads. Don't tragically hate them. Guess I been lucky with Stock. But alloy is an advantage for a few of my rigs.
When I saw how basically the entire front end and the entire rear end of the car is built up right off the bulkhead I knew I couldn't leave it plastic. There is a minimal weight penalty to boot.
 
+1.
Depends how hard you bash as well. This one component has a net gain, regardless of the weight, few grams here or there.
Yeah it is a structural part. Ties in the F and R assemblies. Snapped screws can still result with these alloy bulkheads however.
I would only use 12.9 grade hardware. Not SS. And use the slightest drop of Blue TL.
 
+1.
Depends how hard you bash as well. This one component has a net gain, regardless of the weight, few grams here or there.
Yeah it is a structural part. Ties in the F and R assemblies. Snapped screws can still result with these alloys bulkheads however.
I would only use 12.9 grade hardware. Not SS. And use the slightest drop of Blue TL.

All my HPIs are running titanium screws. They were more affordable 15 years ago complete sets were maybe $45

But since I switched to MIP and manufactures to hex drive it hasn't been an issue stripping screws (for me, I've heard of others still struggling)

I didn't realize the stock hardware was 12.9

I'll probably slowly switch them back as I find bent SS

I did find the l wing mount screws bent and the T2T brace screws bent already.
 
Yeah the high stress fasteners should be 12.9's at the very least. Which is pretty much most of them.
I tried a few SS kits. Didn't work for me. Horrible. Bending and the hexes strip out. Just too soft.
All 6s line rigs come with 12.9 grade stock. One thing Arrma does right on 6s rigs. I stay with them and I like the JennysRC hardware kits. Cheapest way to get them.
All the 4x4 rigs only come with 10.9 grade FWIW.
 
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Bah whatever man I use them no problem. Just use quality tools. I used MIP but any quality tool is fine. The black screws look horrible rusty, albeit they are stronger. But either screw is way stronger than the plastic or aluminum you screw into so it doesn't matter.

For me it's not so much that they are easier to strip it is that they bend. If a 6.6lb plastic monster truck bends them easily I can't even imagine what a 12lb Kraton 6s would do to them.

+1.
Depends how hard you bash as well. This one component has a net gain, regardless of the weight, few grams here or there.
Yeah it is a structural part. Ties in the F and R assemblies. Snapped screws can still result with these alloy bulkheads however.
I would only use 12.9 grade hardware. Not SS. And use the slightest drop of Blue TL.

I have not snapped off a single screw in my Hot Racing gearboxes *knock on wood*, I have bent a few of the wing mount screws and 1 of the screws that goes up through the bottom of the chassis. Not too bad considering I've been beating on them for almost 3 years now.
 
The HR gearbox on my notorious the plastic cover doesn't close completely on the top screws idk why
I had to use hot glue to fill the little gap
 
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