Mojave New Screws/ stainless steel

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scottyzinsd said:
I want to buy some extra screws since they strip pretty easily and loosen and fall off. besides RC screwz is there anything else i can buy? are the stainless steel heavier than the black ones?

https://www.hobbytown.com/rc-screwz-arrma-mojave-6s-blx-stainless-steel-screw-kit-rczara023/p1150420
Click to expand...
Those are a Big mistake. I had those, Just in my Crawler they sucked. Real cheap and soft. Some were poorly broached at the hexes and were garbage out the box. I would never buy SS again. For fasteners in any RC. Definitely not those RC Screwz for sure. (n) In fact the set for my Axial SCX10.2 was incomplete and Customer service was poor, they wouldn't even send me missing screws. Told be to send all back, after I installed much already. These are sub par. Don't let this shiny SS Bling fool you.
The hexes will all strip out from being too soft after a few times removed and installed Way faster than 12.9 grade, that guys let rust up. SS is soft in general compared to steel. The Arrma 12.9 grade fasteners are best.đź‘Ť Replace with same. (12.9 grade Steel only) don't mess with 10.9 grade steel either. Sure these 12.9's wear out over time and need to be replaced. Just part of RC.
But SS is not the way to go.(n):cool:
Just my fervent opinion.

Edit: RC Screwz told me if I didn't use their included L Hex wrenches that the screws will strip out like I am seeing. Picture me as an idiot rebuilding a whole rig with their included L wrench keys. What a joke, I told them I use MIP Hex drivers and they even said they are no good to use with their screws. What clowns. They just wanted all back and couldn't even replace a half dozen missing screws and many defective ones. I ate the loss. They were not cheap either. Let my experience be your lesson.
Further research with other brands told me that SS is Just NOT the way to go in these size fasteners for RC.
I truly think the company is borderline scam if you ask me. Or they have a few SCREWZ loose maybe.:ROFLMAO:

20210207_033547.jpg
 
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Search Vigrue 12.9 on Amazon. You'll find Countersunk, button head, and socket head screws sets.

Bought all three. I've been changing most button head screws to socket head screws when I remove one. You can use a larger hex driver and the head is deeper which helps from stripping screws
 
Grimbles said:
Scorched parts sell stainless steel screws too.

https://scorchedparts.co.uk/collect...cts/stainless-steel-bolt-kit-arrma-mojave-1-7
Click to expand...
Even Scorched RC admits the SS screws are for looks only. They include Black steel for many areas and NO SS grub screws. I would avoid SS at all costs.
Jamart85 said:
Search Vigrue 12.9 on Amazon. You'll find Countersunk, button head, and socket head screws sets.

Bought all three. I've been changing most button head screws to socket head screws when I remove one. You can use a larger hex driver and the head is deeper which helps from stripping screws
Click to expand...
^^^ This. đź‘Ť đź‘Ť @Jamart85 is dead on. And changing out buttons to sockets. That's how you do it. Less stripping. Button heads are shallow and strip easier in the long run.
 
SrC said:
Even Scorched RC admits the SS screws are for looks only. They include Black steel for many areas and NO SS grub screws. I would avoid SS at all costs
Click to expand...
Thanks chap. I've bought a set of these and saw that warning. I don't use ss grubs but have been using them elsewhere on my rigs. Thanks for the heads up :)
 
^^^ using SS minimally in discreet non load areas for aesthetics/looks is not tragic.
Just that many slam their complete rigs with this crap. Just wrong for bashers no doubt. SS bends and crack with impacts like butter, let alone the hexes strip out easily if you sneeze at them. Anyone who had SS already knows what I am talking about.
 
I fell into the same trap on my first kraton, they're not too bad if using mip drivers but not much in the way of longevity.

Much too soft as stated.

Again as stated getting in as many 12.9 sockets is the way to go, providing I have them I will replace buttons with sockets during maintenance.đź‘Ť
 
I just get all my 10.9, 12.9 from eBay, cheaper than Arrma and you can buy the exact ones you want.
I've also upgraded some from button to cap head as others have mentioned too..👍🏼

DO NOT BUY STAINLESS STEEL FOR RC's UNLESS YOUR JUST GOING FOR LOOKS..!!!
 
Absolutely. But wallet permitting.
Furious Ferret said:
Stainless steel may not be the best option ;) ...
Maybe titanium bolts are a better choice :cool:
https://scorchedparts.co.uk/products/titanium-bolt-kit-arrma-6s-trucks
View attachment 125174
Click to expand...
Who doesn't like Titanium. A Great option that I reserve for weight savings on a Track rig. But hey if you have a Fat wallet... From experience Ti can Snap in high stress areas also. Sourcing high grade well machined TI is what costs much more. There is a lot of garbage Ti out there.
The average weight of all 12.9 fasteners on a 6s rig is aprox. 1 pound. Good legit Ti will save about 30-40% of that weight. Reducing about 6 oz of weight on a track rig may be important. Bashers IDK. Bashers are loaded down with much crap you would never see on a track 1/8 Truggy for example.
So you have to think about the practicality of using $Ti$ in Basher rigs. But if having Bling means something to you, Ti is way better than SS hands down.
Woodentop said:
I fell into the same trap on my first kraton, they're not too bad if using mip drivers but not much in the way of longevity.

Much too soft as stated.

Again as stated getting in as many 12.9 sockets is the way to go, providing I have them I will replace buttons with sockets during maintenance.đź‘Ť
Click to expand...
I used MIP's for years exclusively, I can say that the RC SREWZ rounded out easily using MIP. Maybe not at first use, but after removal and reuse , SS rounds out. Just too soft. Especially all the high load long SS fasteners around the Bulkheads and chassis. If you use TL you even have bigger problems.
 
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lol Everyone hates stainless. I don't mind it. I have a lot of both 12.9's and stainless. I use the stainless in areas I don't wanna waste my 12.9s on. But then again I'm not just a ground pounder. I do planes/heli's/quad's as well. If I do strip a screw which isn't often I can pull it out with my $18 extractor set as fast as unscrewing a normal bolt. Literally.

To me this isn't a sore topic lol. I have good luck with about anything I do and use. 🤣

20210130_200109.jpg
 
^^^ that works for you and it can for some. Experience dictates. And you probably know the difference between good SS and the Garbage out there. SS can work and has an obvious advantage, I just don't feel it's great with very small fasteners... too soft. Sure you can mix and match where you want it.
The advantage of SS is aesthetics and non rusting. ( high chromium legit SS) The BS SS will rust.12.9 is way stronger. Like Arrma tough. Why make Arrma weak?:unsure:
 
SrC said:
Those are a Big mistake. I had those, Just in my Crawler they sucked. Real cheap and soft. Some were poorly broached at the hexes and were garbage out the box. I would never buy SS again. For fasteners in any RC. Definitely not those RC Screwz for sure. (n) In fact the set for my Axial SCX10.2 was incomplete and Customer service was poor, they wouldn't even send me missing screws. Told be to send all back, after I installed much already. These are sub par. Don't let this shiny SS Bling fool you.
The hexes will all strip out from being too soft after a few times removed and installed Way faster than 12.9 grade, that guys let rust up. SS is soft in general compared to steel. The Arrma 12.9 grade fasteners are best.đź‘Ť Replace with same. (12.9 grade Steel only) don't mess with 10.9 grade steel either. Sure these 12.9's wear out over time and need to be replaced. Just part of RC.
But SS is not the way to go.(n):cool:
Just my fervent opinion.

Edit: RC Screwz told me if I didn't use their included L Hex wrenches that the screws will strip out like I am seeing. Picture me as an idiot rebuilding a whole rig with their included L wrench keys. What a joke, I told them I use MIP Hex drivers and they even said they are no good to use with their screws. What clowns. They just wanted all back and couldn't even replace a half dozen missing screws and many defective ones. I ate the loss. They were not cheap either. Let my experience be your lesson.
Further research with other brands told me that SS is Just NOT the way to go in these size fasteners for RC.
I truly think the company is borderline scam if you ask me. Or they have a few SCREWZ loose maybe.:ROFLMAO:

View attachment 125167
Click to expand...

I had a similar experience with the Rc Raven stainless steel screw set, I started putting my Summit together and noticed I had some sizes completely missing, some there weren't enough of and other less important sizes there were extras.....

If you absolutely want stainless steel go with Team KNK Hardware.
 
^^^ I looked at them. IF they are NOT stamped 12.9 on the heads, think again. I don't see the stamp stating 12.9. Chinesium stuff may say it is. And not always be.
Seems they are bogus monkey metal. And lucky if they are even 10.9 grade if that.
Just be careful is what I am saying.
For example, Arrma uses 12.9 grade stamped (YFS 12.9). A legit Fastener vendor. You can see the quality in the OE Arrma fasteners. Among the best there is.

about (yfs.com.tw)

20210209_001836.jpg
 
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I had good luck with ebay vendors. At least I can order what I need and don't get 20ea. of something I'll never use.
SS in 'plastic to plastic' and doesn't hold any load is ok. Anything that bolts into the diff housings is excluded, simply not strong enough, maybe the body posts. There are the occasional exceptions but my main issue with stainless is that they aren't magnetic and that dang bolt will drop somewhere just out of reach and in a critical spot.

https://www.ebay.com/usr/monsterbolts?_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2754
 
^^^Good link TY. I would try them. I can appreciate SS for sure.
I use it on my bicycles etc. and around outside, fixtures, my scale cars, or wherever I can around the house. I usually clean out the Home Depot SS hardware bins to stock up my work bench.
Just had bad luck with poor quality smaller fasteners in the M3-M1 range, so I skip it in those applications like RC. And the RC SS Designer kits (RC Screwz) you see around are never complete and come with poor broaching. I find myself removing them and replacing back to 12.9 steel. All my RC SS hardware I go through and toss more frequently. Again in the smaller sizes. And SS is just soft. I had many even bend inside plastic to plastic low stress application areas. Socket heads( deeper broaching) are probably best for SS in general.
BTW I always magnetize my Hex drivers. I like to work that way. Quality SS is unfortunately non magnetic, yes.:)
 
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scottyzinsd said:
https://www.amazon.com/VIGRUE-Pieces-Washers-Assortment-Wrenches/dp/B086MC31JT/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Vigrue+12.9&qid=1612844987&refinements=p_89:VIGRUE&rnid=2528832011&s=industrial&sr=1-3

is this what you are referring to?
Click to expand...
Yeah those and the other type of screws they sell
SrC said:
^^^ I looked at them. IF they are NOT stamped 12.9 on the heads, think again. I don't see the stamp stating 12.9. Chinesium stuff may say it is. And not always be.
Seems they are bogus monkey metal. And lucky if they are even 10.9 grade if that.
Just be careful is what I am saying.
For example, Arrma uses 12.9 grade stamped (YFS 12.9). A legit Fastener vendor. You can see the quality in the OE Arrma fasteners. Among the best there is.

about (yfs.com.tw)

View attachment 125518
Click to expand...
I believe the vigrue screws have the letters SAO 12.9 stamped on the screw heads. Not sure what that exactly means
 
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