Senton New Senton, essentials mods before first run

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LyrickCZE

Active Member
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Location
Prague
Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Mojave EXB
  3. Senton 3s
Hello everyone.

Bought my son a "little Mojave" today for his upcoming birthday, so we can race them together : )

I just want to do some essential mods and keep it intact and brand new in the box till his birthday.
After some quick research Im planning these:
  1. The body reinforcement (tape and ShooGoo) - any particular spots that like to crack the most?
  2. Threadlock the screws at the end of the halfshafts
  3. Cover the transmission box opening with the velcro (any other nice ideas?) to stop crap going in and ruining gears
  4. Some chassis cover - any links? From my Mojave experience I guess its really needed?
  5. New servo or wait till the stock dies?
Any other ideas you consider must have from the start?
Thank you for your time and help!
 
Looking at the Mojave the rear lights and the complete front is where cracks tend to show after a while.
I also don’t like the chassis covers, Scorched inner fenders are preferable IMO. They don’t protect it from all dirt, but still allow some air flow fir cooling.
Replace the stock servo and either keep the stock one as spare or sell it to recoup some cash.
 
Thank you for all the replies!

I actually use Scorched fenders on the Mojave, it is awesome!
But I eventually ended up using the chassis cover too. With the high speed ESC fan and motor dual fan.
The temps were fine using this.

Back to the Senton - how fenders prevents the rocks and dirt getting into the transmission?
My friend lost BigRock transmission 3 times now. So I was really looking for a solution to prevent this.
Or maybe he was really unlucky, what do you think?

Thank you Sandracer for giving hints about the body cracks.
Anyone with beaten up Senton body could give some too, please?

Btw, I have no idea if this is possible to get for you locally, BUT this Den Braven's Mamut TOTAL White Glue is much cheaper and practially indestructible. Compared to the ShooGoo at least. And can be applied using the gun, which is big help if you ask me.
ImgW.jpg
 
Back to the Senton - how fenders prevents the rocks and dirt getting into the transmission?
My friend lost BigRock transmission 3 times now. So I was really looking for a solution to prevent this.
Or maybe he was really unlucky, what do you think?
If you run in dirt/rocks often, it will get into the power module. There are two possible solutions.
1) The velcro tape you mentioned earlier. (Neoprene foam tape also works)
2) Cut a hole in the chassis to let any dirt/rocks out

I use the velcro tape method. It works great for me. But I don't run in dirt that often. Some people that run in dirt often have said the tape method doesn't keep everything out and prefer a hole in the chassis. But you can't undo a hole in the chassis, so try tape first. If the power module still collects debris, you can try a hole in the chassis later.
 
Thank you for detailed explanation!

How is a hole in the chassis a problem anyway?
You have that in many cars, including Mojave.

Anyways, based on your info, I think we might actually need a chassis hole.
I mean, this is what we have in front of our house..... : )

Mojave in front of the house.jpg

Mojave dirt.jpg
 
That dirt looks fairly hard packed and may not create as much of a problem as fine, loose, sand/dirt. So, I still recommend trying tape first. My power module is COMPLETELY free of outside debris with tape. If it doesn't work well, it's really easy to undo. Take off the tape. Plus, you can still use the tape. Neoprene foam tape has multiple uses as padding for an RC. I use it everywhere. (You need 1/16" thickness to fit underneath the power module, 1 inch will be wide enough.)

If it works, I think tape is better. A hole in the chassis will not stay completely free of any outside debris, it will also let dirt in. But if tape doesn't work, most debris will quickly be spit out and it's better than letting dirt and rock stay inside, bounce around the power module and chew up your gears.
 
Ok then, I will try the tape first.

I just read your other message saying:
All three (double sided, foam, velcro) worked equally well at keeping out dirt and my power module always stayed clean. I prefer the velcro because it slides best, so getting the power module in and out is easier.

Do you still agree? I have some velcro, but not the tape of this thickness atm. So that would be perfect.

Thank you.
 
Ended up using 4 pieces of velcro.

Last thing missing is the body reinforcement.
So I am planning to take special care of the:
  • rear lights section
  • all of the holes for the body clips
  • front of the body (hood)
  • A+B posts
  • any other spots you feel like are problematic and like to crack first?
Thank you again for all your help!

IMG_20220429_171714.jpg
 
Ended up using 4 pieces of velcro.

Last thing missing is the body reinforcement.
So I am planning to take special care of the:
  • rear lights section
  • all of the holes for the body clips
  • front of the body (hood)
  • A+B posts
  • any other spots you feel like are problematic and like to crack first?
Thank you again for all your help!

View attachment 214540
Four corners where the cab merges with the body seems to be the weak spot on all SCT body's.
 
Ended up using 4 pieces of velcro.
You need to fold that rear piece over the corner so it also covers that bottom lip. That's the tricky part, but absolutely necessary. The entire bottom needs to be sealed off for it to work. Don't worry if it doesn't stick down so well, once you slide in the power module, it will get folded and pressed into position.

velcro.jpg
 
Hi GRC,

it is not visible on the photo, but I actually made an overlay (or crossover? Looking for correct English word here) of about 2 mm there, so it should cover it from the side too, when it presses against the chassis?

Or you think I should still redo that?
 
Hi GRC,

it is not visible on the photo, but I actually made an overlay (or crossover? Looking for correct English word here) of about 2 mm there, so it should cover it from the side too, when it presses against the chassis?

Or you think I should still redo that?
I see what you mean, that should work.
 
Hello everyone.

Bought my son a "little Mojave" today for his upcoming birthday, so we can race them together : )

I just want to do some essential mods and keep it intact and brand new in the box till his birthday.
After some quick research Im planning these:
  1. The body reinforcement (tape and ShooGoo) - any particular spots that like to crack the most?
  2. Threadlock the screws at the end of the halfshafts
  3. Cover the transmission box opening with the velcro (any other nice ideas?) to stop crap going in and ruining gears
  4. Some chassis cover - any links? From my Mojave experience I guess its really needed?
  5. New servo or wait till the stock dies?
Any other ideas you consider must have from the start?
Thank you for your time and help!
Hi guys, just want to follow up on this - it's been 2.5 months.
I skipped the 4. Chassis Cover. So far just shaking the dirt out upside down every pack and no real issues.
The temps are awesome, both the ESC and motor running very cool (running standard combo and 20T pinion), so I bet a cover would be no problem at all.
Other than that, the truck's been doing awesome job, absorbing all the bashing, racing and jumps from me and all the mistakes of my 4 yo son.
AND! There was no single broken part so far.
It's bit heavy on the track compared to other 1:10 SCT but also very stable and easy to learn.

Here's our latest freestyle racing session with my friends and new wheels - those were huge difference btw.
 
Hi guys,

first real issue with the Senton above happened yesterday.
Btw loving the 3S BLX platform so much that I also ordered the Granite for my son!

Anyways, the Senton started making weird noise under the throttle.
Seemed like a transmission box so after a bit of dissasembly I found that my slipper clutch hub is probably broken.
Its first slipper clutch that I saw so just to make sure here....

The middle piece here is supposed to be one piece with the copper ring part, right?
https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/slipper-plate-and-hub-set/ARA310946.html

Mine looks broken and I guess it is the reason why the screw on spring can not really push onto the plates hard enough
and instead the clutch slipping under throttle? Is that correct?
Thank you for your confirmation!

20221006_181103.jpg
 
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