Typhon New to ARRMA

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Hello all! I am new to ARRMA RCs as there is not a single agent from where I live in Asia.Therefore, I have other brands which my LHS stock due to parts support and availability. However, just yesterday, I pulled the trigger and purchased a Typhon V2 from Amain. As I am new to Arrma, I would like to ask about the buggy's set up,(as in chassis layout) is it quite similar to the Vorza Flux(aside from the weight) and MP9E ? I mainly bash. This buggy does use xt90 male connectors right? so I would need a female xt90 for my battery? I have went through several thread and Typhon owners have not break anything.Is it really that durable? (not against brick wall terms) I am not a good basher and landed many times on my Vorza's bodyshell and wing, and all I gotten was a dented bodyshell( which I am able to push out without cracking it as I had applied automotive glue on the inside of the shell yay!) and a couple of bent screws holding the mount for the wing at the shock towers.Nothing broke on the VF even with my "commendable" bashing abilities

This is the first ever ARRMA I am going to own and I am very excited.As I do not have parts support where I live, do I need to take note of anything for the Typhon in particular?

Sorry for the lengthy post as I would like to know about you guys as well as the buggy.tips/tricks especially front & rear ride height for bashing, how many mm to turn down the rear and front shocks. I usually tune my ride height after I put in the batteries.

cheers and have an awesome weekend !

 

[Mikuri]

Good choice! I'm also waiting on my Typhon to come home.

It does use XT90 connectors, but any adapters are fine if your Lipo don't have XT90 connectors yet. Arrma products are made for Bashers, so they are quite resistant! My Talion is holding pretty good! Maybe check for RPM A-Arms as that is what I break most of the time with any RC...

For shocks you adjust depending on your experience. If you bottom too much on jumps, you might want to have heavier fluid and/or stronger springs. I know that I need to do this with my Talion.

 

[Gozar]

Make sure you get an extra wing mount . As I've heard the break easy.
Welcome to the arrma club

 

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Thank you for the warm welcome guys! noted on the heavier fluid and/or stiffer springs Mikuri! I will install my batteries and test my ride height first. ETA is 2 June.HAHA. but it is ok.i have other parts on the way too so hope all coincides and come together.
Oh yea Gozar, you have a good recommendation,is it still the same for the V2? as I thought that they had strengthen it. I am asking as I always tend to land the wrong way
I am going to post some pics when I am done dressing her up!

 

[Gozar]

Not sure about the V2 mate. But for what they cost it's always worth having a spare .

 

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I had also purchased a futaba4pv along with my new typhon as well as some blings from Hot racing and other accessories(all of which hasn't arrive). I would like to enquire,is it possible for me to install the futaba 4pv receiver with no antenna tube as I didn't notice an antenna tube compartment from the arrma typhon receiver's box? Will range be affected or glitching issues? Much appreciated!

 

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on a side note, I had owned vehicles that are able to run "4S - 6S" so running 5S should be ok. However I read on some reviews it is stated as "4S/6S" instead of "4S-6S". Therefore I would like to know if all these 6S capable Escs need to run in packs of 2 cell increments to avoid damaging the esc.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Mikuri]

You can run 2S and 3S lipos. You could even make a 5S total, but you would need to turn off the lipo checker and use your own lipo voltage alarm on each lipo.

Some people also run 3S but I would stay at 4S minimum.

 

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You can run 2S and 3S lipos. You could even make a 5S total, but you would need to turn off the lipo checker and use your own lipo voltage alarm on each lipo.

Some people also run 3S but I would stay at 4S minimum.

Thank you Mikuri for your reply! I was thinking of running a single 5S in the rig. Moreover I gone through many threads and found out that Arrma are a little Gung-ho with the red loctite,hope that I could unscrew the screws easily for my Hop ups

 

[Mikuri]

A single 5S would be awesome
Many people say it's the sweet spot.

 

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A single 5S would be awesome
Many people say it's the sweet spot.

I could not have said so better myself

 

[Bigfella]

Red loctite is your friend. If it spins fast and is metal to metal, I use red loctite, especially on the pinion. I do use blue on the set screws going through the wheel hexes though. The key is knowing how to get it off easy. I can get the red loctited pinion off in about 1 minute.

The key is to use a heat gun. Concentrate the hot air on the pinion for about 10 sec. It comes right off.

It's much easier to work with the motor and pinion if you have the hot racing motor mount. I highly recommend it. It will make your life easier. The HR center diff holder is also a good upgrade. You need to externally shim the center diff if you use them though. It's not hard, you just basically add some shims. See this post.

https://arrmaforum.com/threads/a-so...motor-mount-center-diff-fitment-problem.4029/

 

[Typhon]

Hello all! I am new to ARRMA RCs as there is not a single agent from where I live in Asia.Therefore, I have other brands which my LHS stock due to parts support and availability. However, just yesterday, I pulled the trigger and purchased a Typhon V2 from Amain. As I am new to Arrma, I would like to ask about the buggy's set up,(as in chassis layout) is it quite similar to the Vorza Flux(aside from the weight) and MP9E ? I mainly bash. This buggy does use xt90 male connectors right? so I would need a female xt90 for my battery? I have went through several thread and Typhon owners have not break anything.Is it really that durable? (not against brick wall terms) I am not a good basher and landed many times on my Vorza's bodyshell and wing, and all I gotten was a dented bodyshell( which I am able to push out without cracking it as I had applied automotive glue on the inside of the shell yay!) and a couple of bent screws holding the mount for the wing at the shock towers.Nothing broke on the VF even with my "commendable" bashing abilities

This is the first ever ARRMA I am going to own and I am very excited.As I do not have parts support where I live, do I need to take note of anything for the Typhon in particular?

Sorry for the lengthy post as I would like to know about you guys as well as the buggy.tips/tricks especially front & rear ride height for bashing, how many mm to turn down the rear and front shocks. I usually tune my ride height after I put in the batteries.

cheers and have an awesome weekend !

Excellent questions as im also guilty of the same lengthy doing lol. As a V2 typhon owner that has put it through the paces i can give you a few tips/tricks to help you out. As for reliability its fairly good but not indestructible. Thee very first thing that failed was the crappy bearings for me. Id put some AVID/Fast Eddy sealed bearings in first because it'll be smoother, quieter, and you wont have to dig a grenaded bearing out of your front diff like i had too. The diff fluids were "NOT" topped off like they shouldve been on mine but they were also not filled with grease like some claimed in the past. Maybe run it and see how you like the handling first then Come back for questions on good diff fluid setups. Regardless id top the diffs off at some point. As for the wing mount that problem is no longer an issue as the V2 is beefier and ive had no issues of breakage. The V2 does come with xt90's and depending on what you have or want to use id shoot for a female xt90 fitting to solder on your battery. Adapters will work and will get you by but may cause some resistance which causes heat. I prefer single batteries instead of using the dual wiring setup for 2 batteries. I use 4s smc batteries because their reliable, give proper C ratings/Amp output, and all of our local track guys use them religiously. As 5s or 6s would be a thrill i find no need for it. Anyone will tell you: run 6s if you wanna destroy your car lol. 4s with the supplied 16t pinion is pretty fast/torqueee. 40mph is pretty quick. I had no problems with heat but i did install a fan on my motor for extra insurance. As you said id install your battery of choice and look at your rear dogbones. The car typically should sit with the dogbones being level so adjust accordingly. Chassis slapping is gonna occur regardless if your a basher/track user but pay close attention to how the car behaves off a jump and we can further assist you from that point. I broke a hub once but i had several bad landings, and i broke 1 planetary gear but these were most likely do to user error (bad landings, full throttle on landings, etc). Durability overall i don't think anyone can complain about especially for the price. Im a basher/weekend track guy and it runs strong against the competition. I have zero regrets buying my typhon nor should you. Congrats on your purchase, i hope this helps you in some way. Were all hear to assist each other so ask away or search the forum because there is countless threads on past problems, fixes, or mods.

 

[Bigfella]

I agree with everything Typhon said. It's all good advice. At some point you may want to "truggify" your typhon. Put on Kraton hubs, axles, wheel hexes (buy all on ebay for cheap) Also buy proline f11 2.8 wheels(17mmm) and mx2.8 badlands tires (you will have to glue them up).

It turns the Typhon into an absolute bashing BEAST. It retains most of the agility and speed of a buggy but flys and lands equal too or better than a Kraton (big claim but true). It has become my favorite rc. Rc planes don't fly as well as this thing. It's some of the most fun I've had with rc.

It's also easy to control in the air even on 4s because of its light weight and larger tires. I run a 15t pinion on punch setting 9. It can pull wheelies with all that traction but is not uncontrollable like 6s.

I run 10k in the rear diff, 100k in middle and 60k in front.

 

[Typhon]

I agree with everything Typhon said. It's all good advice. At some point you may want to "truggify" your typhon. Put on Kraton hubs, axles, wheel hexes (buy all on ebay for cheap) Also buy proline f11 2.8 wheels(17mmm) and mx2.8 badlands tires (you will have to glue them up).

It turns the Typhon into an absolute bashing BEAST. It retains most of the agility and speed of a buggy but flys and lands equal too or better than a Kraton (big claim but true). It has become my favorite rc. Rc planes don't fly as well as this thing. It's some of the most fun I've had with rc.

It's also easy to control in the air even on 4s because of its light weight and larger tires. I run a 15t pinion on punch setting 9. It can pull wheelies with all that traction but is not uncontrollable like 6s.

I run 10k in the rear diff, 100k in middle and 60k in front.

Someday i hope to do this to mine. Seen some running vids of this and i love it.

 

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Excellent questions as im also guilty of the same lengthy doing lol. As a V2 typhon owner that has put it through the paces i can give you a few tips/tricks to help you out. As for reliability its fairly good but not indestructible. Thee very first thing that failed was the crappy bearings for me. Id put some AVID/Fast Eddy sealed bearings in first because it'll be smoother, quieter, and you wont have to dig a grenaded bearing out of your front diff like i had too. The diff fluids were "NOT" topped off like they shouldve been on mine but they were also not filled with grease like some claimed in the past. Maybe run it and see how you like the handling first then Come back for questions on good diff fluid setups. Regardless id top the diffs off at some point. As for the wing mount that problem is no longer an issue as the V2 is beefier and ive had no issues of breakage. The V2 does come with xt90's and depending on what you have or want to use id shoot for a female xt90 fitting to solder on your battery. Adapters will work and will get you by but may cause some resistance which causes heat. I prefer single batteries instead of using the dual wiring setup for 2 batteries. I use 4s smc batteries because their reliable, give proper C ratings/Amp output, and all of our local track guys use them religiously. As 5s or 6s would be a thrill i find no need for it. Anyone will tell you: run 6s if you wanna destroy your car lol. 4s with the supplied 16t pinion is pretty fast/torqueee. 40mph is pretty quick. I had no problems with heat but i did install a fan on my motor for extra insurance. As you said id install your battery of choice and look at your rear dogbones. The car typically should sit with the dogbones being level so adjust accordingly. Chassis slapping is gonna occur regardless if your a basher/track user but pay close attention to how the car behaves off a jump and we can further assist you from that point. I broke a hub once but i had several bad landings, and i broke 1 planetary gear but these were most likely do to user error (bad landings, full throttle on landings, etc). Durability overall i don't think anyone can complain about especially for the price. Im a basher/weekend track guy and it runs strong against the competition. I have zero regrets buying my typhon nor should you. Congrats on your purchase, i hope this helps you in some way. Were all hear to assist each other so ask away or search the forum because there is countless threads on past problems, fixes, or mods.

WOW! Typhon! I cannot thank you enough for your encyclopedia of the typhon v2! man,arrma claimed that its oil filled gear differentials and some owners are able to find grease in them?! I am so lucky that the v2 mount should no longer be an issue as it is beefier, saving me more moolah for my other hop ups! i agree that the single battery setup is much neater, just that hope there isn't a bad cell spoiling the whole brick (fingers crossed). Does your V2 comes with red Loctite all over the car, or is it just the moving parts like the mount and pinion gear? so the rest of the chassis should be blue Loctite? I had received my hot racing parts today, just missing the front brace and savox servo which hasn't arrive, as well as my Futaba 4PV and of course the bad boy,typhon is also making me wait.HAHA. i want to change to 16t like you recommended and run on 4s (at least ,slower turning parts means less frequent maintenance) shh.. i know I'm lazy lol.
good tips on the levelled dog bones for tightening down the collar of my shocks.(this should be done after my batteries are in the tray right) i trust you on the durability issue on the typhon! as times when i bent something is due to my poor judgement and not the vehicle itself. yes chassis bottoming out is common as the car needs to have some give for the landing i reckon. btw,i am new to the pillow ball suspension, any things do i need to take note of? and are there steering slop on this vehicle out of the box? For my other vehicles like the Serpent (which has angled steering) there is no slop at all, whereby the tires do not rock back and forth when u turn them with your fingers.it is tight!
you are definitely spot on the C rating.its a gentle reminder that i do not want to burn up my esc. Typhon, you have many good tips that i am able to learn .From the bearings to the diff settings to the battery connectors and then to the batteries' rating, pinion gear, heat , ride height and jumping tips. this is definitely helpful towards my new purchase, saves me the hassle of wrenching and have more time bashing !
thank you so much

I agree with everything Typhon said. It's all good advice. At some point you may want to "truggify" your typhon. Put on Kraton hubs, axles, wheel hexes (buy all on ebay for cheap) Also buy proline f11 2.8 wheels(17mmm) and mx2.8 badlands tires (you will have to glue them up).

It turns the Typhon into an absolute bashing BEAST. It retains most of the agility and speed of a buggy but flys and lands equal too or better than a Kraton (big claim but true). It has become my favorite rc. Rc planes don't fly as well as this thing. It's some of the most fun I've had with rc.

It's also easy to control in the air even on 4s because of its light weight and larger tires. I run a 15t pinion on punch setting 9. It can pull wheelies with all that traction but is not uncontrollable like 6s.

I run 10k in the rear diff, 100k in middle and 60k in front.

Heya Bigfella!! oh yea i was looking at the kraton even before my typhon came and almost wanted to purchase one myself.( i am that guilty). the truggify route is quite popular i reckon.Thank you for letting me know which parts i need. Do i not need the longer truggy suspension arms if i want to truggify my typhon? i feel that the hubs, axles makes sense, just that the wheel hexes i gotta find the correct offset so that the 2.8 wheels will not rub against the tbone racing bumpers. So, after truggifying the typhon, this "kraphon" is able to soak up bad landings and handle big jumps from an amateur?

so to truggify my typhon, i need:
kraton hubs
axles,
offset wheel hexes
proline f11 2.8wheels(17mm)
mx 2.8 Badlands tires

thank you for the tips Bigfella.

p.s the internet is an evil place,my wallet feels so much lighter after read your post

 

[Typhon]

WOW! Typhon! I cannot thank you enough for your encyclopedia of the typhon v2! man,arrma claimed that its oil filled gear differentials and some owners are able to find grease in them?! I am so lucky that the v2 mount should no longer be an issue as it is beefier, saving me more moolah for my other hop ups! i agree that the single battery setup is much neater, just that hope there isn't a bad cell spoiling the whole brick (fingers crossed). Does your V2 comes with red Loctite all over the car, or is it just the moving parts like the mount and pinion gear? so the rest of the chassis should be blue Loctite? I had received my hot racing parts today, just missing the front brace and savox servo which hasn't arrive, as well as my Futaba 4PV and of course the bad boy,typhon is also making me wait.HAHA. i want to change to 16t like you recommended and run on 4s (at least ,slower turning parts means less frequent maintenance) shh.. i know I'm lazy lol.
good tips on the levelled dog bones for tightening down the collar of my shocks.(this should be done after my batteries are in the tray right) i trust you on the durability issue on the typhon! as times when i bent something is due to my poor judgement and not the vehicle itself. yes chassis bottoming out is common as the car needs to have some give for the landing i reckon. btw,i am new to the pillow ball suspension, any things do i need to take note of? and are there steering slop on this vehicle out of the box? For my other vehicles like the Serpent (which has angled steering) there is no slop at all, whereby the tires do not rock back and forth when u turn them with your fingers.it is tight!
you are definitely spot on the C rating.its a gentle reminder that i do not want to burn up my esc. Typhon, you have many good tips that i am able to learn .From the bearings to the diff settings to the battery connectors and then to the batteries' rating, pinion gear, heat , ride height and jumping tips. this is definitely helpful towards my new purchase, saves me the hassle of wrenching and have more time bashing !
thank you so much


Heya Bigfella!! oh yea i was looking at the kraton even before my typhon came and almost wanted to purchase one myself.( i am that guilty). the truggify route is quite popular i reckon.Thank you for letting me know which parts i need. Do i not need the longer truggy suspension arms if i want to truggify my typhon? i feel that the hubs, axles makes sense, just that the wheel hexes i gotta find the correct offset so that the 2.8 wheels will not rub against the tbone racing bumpers. So, after truggifying the typhon, this "kraphon" is able to soak up bad landings and handle big jumps from an amateur?

so to truggify my typhon, i need:
kraton hubs
axles,
offset wheel hexes
proline f11 2.8wheels(17mm)
mx 2.8 Badlands tires

thank you for the tips Bigfella.

p.s the internet is an evil place,my wallet feels so much lighter after read your post

Im happy to help. Id respond back sooner to everyone if i didnt have a screaming baby in my arms half the time! When purchasing batteries arrma recommends at least a 35c rating. Id buy something with at least 50c plus. Your truck will have more power and will likely run cooler as well. Upon receiving your battery always check the cell voltage via a lipo charger or an external $5-10 ebay/amazon voltage alarm. Most batteries will not be shipped with a full 4.20v per cell as their typically shipped with a storage charge. Could be anywhere from 3.7-4.10v. This is exceptable. If one cell is below 3.4v as in my view the minimal voltage they should be discharged too and wont balance properly then id be concerned. Any reputable dealer should replace it. Theirs many quality battery manufacturers out there as venom, turnigy graphene, smc, max amps all seem to have high ratings. Surely i missed some but thats a start. Btw arrmas esc's cutoff at a low 3.20v per cell. I recommend buying one of those cheapo voltage alarms for added security. don't rely on the esc cutoff as it can possibly over-discharge your lipo. As for the grease filled diffs that was rumored to be on the version 1 typhon. Arrma listens to us and has fixed many issues users have faced hence the v2. Lets tackle the loctite issue lol. Ive found many threads with some form of factory loctite but several on mine that was lacking some as well. Its good practice to check to see if all nuts and bolts are tight out of the box. This is where a quality set of allen keys makes a "WORLD" of difference. Ask Woodie on here he can contest to this. I bought some "m.i.p. speed drivers" and it has completely eliminated the issue of having stripped allens. Now for the loctite again. My pinion was tight but i didnt need a heatgun to remove mine. This is something you don't want to come loose. Run your typhon at least a battery before you change yours to the 16t, Just so you can notice the difference. Make sure you space the pinion and spur properly. A piece of paper in the gear mesh is a good rule of thumb. The ball cups on the front and rear differential, where the dogbone sits in them was a minor issue for me. The set screw was not loctited on and both front and rear came loose on me. I thought i blew a diff to find out i didnt and caused myself un-needed disassemly (TWICE) Loctite these suckers lol. I have no issue with my steering rack but if you buy a bearing kit from avid you get 2 smaller bearings that will replace the factory "bushings" and will make things better. Wow this reply is lengthy but to answer your last question on the pillow ball suspension. The key is proper maintence. Get a can of air duster or a cheap paint brush and just knock the dirt out after each run. If it gets gritty then you might have to clean them thoroughly but its not needed that often. Im using a dry lube on mine currently and all my other moving parts. Im in a trial faze to see if i like it better over a silicone lube. Jeese i wrote a novel.....

 

[Bigfella]

Yes, that is all you need to truggify your typhon. You can buy Kraton suspension arms front and rear but that moves it to being an outcast and you will lose some maneuverability. I just kept the stock suspension arms.

You will love it. I just bought the Tekno full option shocks for my Kraphon. It's so fast and fun that I wanted to push it even further with these awesome shocks.

....and yes, the Kraphon is a jump master and super tough. It's probably tougher than a standard typhon. The short suspension arms combined with the cushy tires are the key to its toughness. In addition, the rpm front bumper works in perfect harmony with the Kraphon.

 

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Im happy to help. Id respond back sooner to everyone if i didnt have a screaming baby in my arms half the time! When purchasing batteries arrma recommends at least a 35c rating. Id buy something with at least 50c plus. Your truck will have more power and will likely run cooler as well. Upon receiving your battery always check the cell voltage via a lipo charger or an external $5-10 ebay/amazon voltage alarm. Most batteries will not be shipped with a full 4.20v per cell as their typically shipped with a storage charge. Could be anywhere from 3.7-4.10v. This is exceptable. If one cell is below 3.4v as in my view the minimal voltage they should be discharged too and wont balance properly then id be concerned. Any reputable dealer should replace it. Theirs many quality battery manufacturers out there as venom, turnigy graphene, smc, max amps all seem to have high ratings. Surely i missed some but thats a start. Btw arrmas esc's cutoff at a low 3.20v per cell. I recommend buying one of those cheapo voltage alarms for added security. don't rely on the esc cutoff as it can possibly over-discharge your lipo. As for the grease filled diffs that was rumored to be on the version 1 typhon. Arrma listens to us and has fixed many issues users have faced hence the v2. Lets tackle the loctite issue lol. Ive found many threads with some form of factory loctite but several on mine that was lacking some as well. Its good practice to check to see if all nuts and bolts are tight out of the box. This is where a quality set of allen keys makes a "WORLD" of difference. Ask Woodie on here he can contest to this. I bought some "m.i.p. speed drivers" and it has completely eliminated the issue of having stripped allens. Now for the loctite again. My pinion was tight but i didnt need a heatgun to remove mine. This is something you don't want to come loose. Run your typhon at least a battery before you change yours to the 16t, Just so you can notice the difference. Make sure you space the pinion and spur properly. A piece of paper in the gear mesh is a good rule of thumb. The ball cups on the front and rear differential, where the dogbone sits in them was a minor issue for me. The set screw was not loctited on and both front and rear came loose on me. I thought i blew a diff to find out i didnt and caused myself un-needed disassemly (TWICE) Loctite these suckers lol. I have no issue with my steering rack but if you buy a bearing kit from avid you get 2 smaller bearings that will replace the factory "bushings" and will make things better. Wow this reply is lengthy but to answer your last question on the pillow ball suspension. The key is proper maintence. Get a can of air duster or a cheap paint brush and just knock the dirt out after each run. If it gets gritty then you might have to clean them thoroughly but its not needed that often. Im using a dry lube on mine currently and all my other moving parts. Im in a trial faze to see if i like it better over a silicone lube. Jeese i wrote a novel.....

Congratulations on your blessing into this world
oh yes.Good pointer, otherwise gotta spend money on the hobbywing programming card! its convenient, otherwise, more money going out As I am living in Singapore( the other side of you guys) there isn't a stockist for Arrma, much less a retailer. therefore, I need to be cautious of what I am going to break , or even run the car at its optimal potential.Parts for Arrma had to be ordered online via eBay or Amain for me. In my country, there are lots of support parts for brands like AXIAL,CASTER, HOBAO, HPI,KYOSHO, TAMIYA,TLR,TRAXXAS,SERPENT and that's what I can think of. However, this upcoming brand ARRMA, sure takes the breath outta me. I am taking a big step with no parts support and knowledge of the vehicle when I purchased then.However, with helpful and friendly users like yourself Typhon, Bigfella,Mikuri and Gozar, you guys help me with the "no questions is stupid" part.hehe.

Oh yes, when you are talking about the batteries, I use acorn racing,revolectrix brands both are 2s hardcases. Limited or what I know in my country are these brands as well as Orion(golly expensive!) and maybe a few other soft brand packs which I didn't take note of. I wanted to try out venom and maxamps like you mentioned but they do not allow air shipping due to some hazmat regulations those batteries have the discharge rate and capacity which I desire.oh well.

oh yea I managed to break one of my 1.5mm dynamite hex driver in my 10th scale days when I was fixing my on-road car, couldn't find a tip replacement and ended up buying one 1.5mm MIP hex driver and it is tough . The rest of my dynamite 2.0mm-3.0mm hex drivers are still ok. (there will not be a chance that I will need a 3.5mm for the typhon?)

I do not think I will change the pinion gear so soon as I want to try out the stock gearing and get used to the vehicle driving style before I gear up.(hope that I do not need a heat gun when I'm changing pinion gears lol) oh yea, I had my other vehicles' differential ball cups loctited stock out of the battery. but its always good to go over the whole vehicle for this kind of stuff as it multiplies over speed. Disassembly sucks! I feel you totally! I was building my TLR22-4 , was very happy when I finished building it,mounted the yellow wheels n wanted to break in the differentials and oh boy! I realised, I DIDN'T tighten down the tungsten carbide balls enough and there was no bite in the belt.(too tight and you flatten the balls, too loose and no bite) Being a concealed belt driven buggy is good, but the hassle of taking the cover out and tightening the differential is a hassle. I am gona Loctite every metal piece after I mount up my HR parts. Funny thing is, my upgrades are almost here except for my radio and the candy red bad boy aint here yet.oh god, the anticipation.

Oh yea! I always clean them after every run like an archaeologist n I got the dry lube from WD40.i use contact cleaner on the bearing at times if there was a wet run before I use the dry lube. before that I was using a Qplus silicon spray and its good however, it leaves a lot of sticky residue(it does its job).Silicon lube sets semi-solid, at least i know, for the qplus spray grease, so definitely a dust magnet.haha. ok, noted on cleaning out grit on the pillow ball suspension. I got the HR steering post upgrades and in it includes 4x 6*10*3 bearings(luckily) if not I have to cannibalise my other vehicles for it.
So, I hope there is totally no play on the steering. if u have a serpent 1/8 car be it on-road or off-road you will know what I mean by no play due to their angled steering posts, hard to describe, but you vets sure know what I'm mumbling about haha. these slop will magnify when you accelerate or drive or have torque steer. damn I am such a baby about it even before it comes.i think that my vorza and my serpents and kyoshos will have a lot of less loving when typhon comes...(oh well, priorites.Right?)

thank you for sharing your experience with me, so the new guys like myself do not have to go through the same pain of wrenching instead of bashing
love to read this forum replies, always learning more new stuff!

Yes, that is all you need to truggify your typhon. You can buy Kraton suspension arms front and rear but that moves it to being an outcast and you will lose some maneuverability. I just kept the stock suspension arms.

You will love it. I just bought the Tekno full option shocks for my Kraphon. It's so fast and fun that I wanted to push it even further with these awesome shocks.

....and yes, the Kraphon is a jump master and super tough. It's probably tougher than a standard typhon. The short suspension arms combined with the cushy tires are the key to its toughness. In addition, the rpm front bumper works in perfect harmony with the Kraphon.

oh yes Bigfella, now you talk about it, now I know why many people bought the standard bumpers, instead of the wide front bumpers which I always purchased for all of my rcs. at least , in the future, you are open to modifications be it truggy wheels or MT wheels and not have any obstructions. I like the agility in the buggy, and boy I am glad I bought the savox 1210 sg at least it has more torque for bigger wheels.i will keep my stock suspension arms like you Bigfella. The way you did up your typhon sure made it tougher than tough with those upgrades! Will look up the tekno full option shocks. Therefore,kraton hubs and axles, kraton wheel hexes,proline f11 2.8wheels(17mm),mx 2.8 Badlands tires( is that correct?) should be in my wishlist soon!

Sorry guys. I think I am going to get busy soon

Just awaiting on my front brace and savox serving my 4PV

The red looks darker in the flesh than the pics though

 

[Typhon]

Congratulations on your blessing into this world
oh yes.Good pointer, otherwise gotta spend money on the hobbywing programming card! its convenient, otherwise, more money going out As I am living in Singapore( the other side of you guys) there isn't a stockist for Arrma, much less a retailer. therefore, I need to be cautious of what I am going to break , or even run the car at its optimal potential.Parts for Arrma had to be ordered online via eBay or Amain for me. In my country, there are lots of support parts for brands like AXIAL,CASTER, HOBAO, HPI,KYOSHO, TAMIYA,TLR,TRAXXAS,SERPENT and that's what I can think of. However, this upcoming brand ARRMA, sure takes the breath outta me. I am taking a big step with no parts support and knowledge of the vehicle when I purchased then.However, with helpful and friendly users like yourself Typhon, Bigfella,Mikuri and Gozar, you guys help me with the "no questions is stupid" part.hehe.

Oh yes, when you are talking about the batteries, I use acorn racing,revolectrix brands both are 2s hardcases. Limited or what I know in my country are these brands as well as Orion(golly expensive!) and maybe a few other soft brand packs which I didn't take note of. I wanted to try out venom and maxamps like you mentioned but they do not allow air shipping due to some hazmat regulations those batteries have the discharge rate and capacity which I desire.oh well.

oh yea I managed to break one of my 1.5mm dynamite hex driver in my 10th scale days when I was fixing my on-road car, couldn't find a tip replacement and ended up buying one 1.5mm MIP hex driver and it is tough . The rest of my dynamite 2.0mm-3.0mm hex drivers are still ok. (there will not be a chance that I will need a 3.5mm for the typhon?)

I do not think I will change the pinion gear so soon as I want to try out the stock gearing and get used to the vehicle driving style before I gear up.(hope that I do not need a heat gun when I'm changing pinion gears lol) oh yea, I had my other vehicles' differential ball cups loctited stock out of the battery. but its always good to go over the whole vehicle for this kind of stuff as it multiplies over speed. Disassembly sucks! I feel you totally! I was building my TLR22-4 , was very happy when I finished building it,mounted the yellow wheels n wanted to break in the differentials and oh boy! I realised, I DIDN'T tighten down the tungsten carbide balls enough and there was no bite in the belt.(too tight and you flatten the balls, too loose and no bite) Being a concealed belt driven buggy is good, but the hassle of taking the cover out and tightening the differential is a hassle. I am gona Loctite every metal piece after I mount up my HR parts. Funny thing is, my upgrades are almost here except for my radio and the candy red bad boy aint here yet.oh god, the anticipation.

Oh yea! I always clean them after every run like an archaeologist n I got the dry lube from WD40.i use contact cleaner on the bearing at times if there was a wet run before I use the dry lube. before that I was using a Qplus silicon spray and its good however, it leaves a lot of sticky residue(it does its job).Silicon lube sets semi-solid, at least i know, for the qplus spray grease, so definitely a dust magnet.haha. ok, noted on cleaning out grit on the pillow ball suspension. I got the HR steering post upgrades and in it includes 4x 6*10*3 bearings(luckily) if not I have to cannibalise my other vehicles for it.
So, I hope there is totally no play on the steering. if u have a serpent 1/8 car be it on-road or off-road you will know what I mean by no play due to their angled steering posts, hard to describe, but you vets sure know what I'm mumbling about haha. these slop will magnify when you accelerate or drive or have torque steer. damn I am such a baby about it even before it comes.i think that my vorza and my serpents and kyoshos will have a lot of less loving when typhon comes...(oh well, priorites.Right?)

thank you for sharing your experience with me, so the new guys like myself do not have to go through the same pain of wrenching instead of bashing
love to read this forum replies, always learning more new stuff!


oh yes Bigfella, now you talk about it, now I know why many people bought the standard bumpers, instead of the wide front bumpers which I always purchased for all of my rcs. at least , in the future, you are open to modifications be it truggy wheels or MT wheels and not have any obstructions. I like the agility in the buggy, and boy I am glad I bought the savox 1210 sg at least it has more torque for bigger wheels.i will keep my stock suspension arms like you Bigfella. The way you did up your typhon sure made it tougher than tough with those upgrades! Will look up the tekno full option shocks. Therefore,kraton hubs and axles, kraton wheel hexes,proline f11 2.8wheels(17mm),mx 2.8 Badlands tires( is that correct?) should be in my wishlist soon!

Sorry guys. I think I am going to get busy soon

Just awaiting on my front brace and savox serving my 4PV

The red looks darker in the flesh than the pics though

As for play in the steering, yes their is a little but i haven't been concerned about it. It drives pretty straight to me. The stock servo is decent but your servo upgrade will make a big improvement in response. I need to do this still. As for a 3.5mm allen key being needed a truly don't remember. I wanna say no? I primarily use 1.5mm, 2.0mm, and 2.5mm. Before you take a wheel off theirs a 3.0mm "i think" in the center of your 17mm hex nut. Thats required to loosen for disassembly of your knuckle. Other than that the 3 smaller sizes works on the majority of your car. Isnt it fun dropping tons of (SGD) and you still cant drive it lol. I love but hate that anticipation! Spare tires are always nice to have. Im a 50/50 basher/track guy and some aka crossbraces really helped my traction issues on the track vs the stock tires. Those are good for the grass and backyard thrills imo. I haven't broke any axle pins yet but having a spare can keep you up and running. Pretty inexpensive backup item.