New wltoys a959 killer?

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Maybe, it's possible replace the transmission with lc changing the diff case.

If you want to go in this way, then, directly buy a LC Racing.

If you change the gearboxes, you will need to change the differentials, then, the input gears, then add a slipper, so buy a new spur gear, then the motor mount, the drive cup, the center drive shaft....I just took a look on the price to have the center dirve train of the LC racing : 70$, and you still won't have 6061 T6 aluminum and better cvd/dog bone. And after that you will need to change the motor because the LC racing motor mount can't take a 550, so all the electronic will need to be changed. Not a good operation imo.

Imo, these WLtoys cars must be kept as close as possible as stock, they don"t worth to be upgraded, or only if a part is really too weak. Excepted maybe the 10428 (the twin hammer clone) to put better electronics. Excepted the steel gears (which come in the 12428 now), the shock absorber and the rear center drive shaft, i did nothing else to my 12428. It isn"t the perfect car, and it will never be really better with tons of upgrades. It works fine as it is and it is fun.

But i'm also somebody who doesn't put upgrades without real utility.
 
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If you want to go in this way, then, directly buy a LC Racing.

If you change the gearboxes, you will need to change the differentials, then, the input gears, then add a slipper, so buy a new spur gear, then the motor mount, the drive cup, the center drive shaft....I just took a look on the price to have the center dirve train of the LC racing : 70$, and you still won't have 6061 T6 aluminum and better cvd/dog bone. And after that you will need to change the motor because the LC racing motor mount can't take a 550, so all the electronic will need to be changed. Not a good operation imo.

Imo, these WLtoys cars must be kept as close as possible as stock, they don"t worth to be upgraded, or only if a part is really too weak. Excepted maybe the 10428 (the twin hammer clone) to put better electronics. Excepted the steel gears (which come in the 12428 now), the shock absorber and the rear center drive shaft, i did nothing else to my 12428. It isn"t the perfect car, and it will never be really better with tons of upgrades. It works fine as it is and it is fun.

But i'm also somebody who doesn't put upgrades without real utility.

Thanks for the detailed examination of the buggy, I'm in the middle of testing/reviewing mine. I agree that this is best kept stock, it runs OK (though the ESC seems very budget, got up to 180F running a full pack).

The good thing about this buggy is it got me interested in 1/14 scale, it's the perfect size to run in my backyard, thinking about digging up the grass and making a little dirt track!
 
Thanks for the detailed examination of the buggy, I'm in the middle of testing/reviewing mine. I agree that this is best kept stock, it runs OK (though the ESC seems very budget, got up to 180F running a full pack).

The good thing about this buggy is it got me interested in 1/14 scale, it's the perfect size to run in my backyard, thinking about digging up the grass and making a little dirt track!
I really like my 1/14 scale stuff you can break stuff from time to time but not nearly as much as you do on say an Arrma 1/8th scale and when you do they are cheap.
 
I am pretty sure that the Tbone Racing bumpers from the Tacon Soar should fit that.

A good tire for running in the grass that I have found are the Tamiya Rally Blocks. The tires look just like the ones that are on the Lc Racing EMB-1 and I didn't really care for them unless I was on the dirt track.
 
@slick2500 or anyone else, do you which kit would be best to buy? I don’t need a TX or RX so I was thinking a kit would be best but I do need an ESC, motor and battery. What’s difference between the motor sizes and ESC? Are these quality or should I just buy the base kit and source my own combo? Is there a Tacon equivalent?

https://casterracingmi.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=173&product_id=1754

Thanks in advance.

Edit-@slick2500 is your MT a LC Racing or Tacon? Did they discontinue the LC MT because I can’t seem to find it.
 
I would go with the mod1 combo, I'm running that motor with a 10BL60 esc and it rips. 2s with the 17t pinion it moves and does backflips relatively easy. I can't imagine what it's like on 3s.
It was a Tacon but since I replaced most of the factory plastic stuff with the LC aluminum I would say it's an LC now.
Riptide still has the MT ARR or RTR with clear body. https://riptiderc.com/shop/ols/categories/rc-cars
 
I would go with the mod1 combo, I'm running that motor with a 10BL60 esc and it rips. 2s with the 17t pinion it moves and does backflips relatively easy. I can't imagine what it's like on 3s.
It was a Tacon but since I replaced most of the factory plastic stuff with the LC aluminum I would say it's an LC now.
Riptide still has the MT ARR or RTR with clear body. https://riptiderc.com/shop/ols/categories/rc-cars

Thank you!
 
Not too much traffic on RCTalk so I’m copying what I posted over there to here.

@slick2500 i thought it would be better to continue my questions here rather than the Arrma forum.

So, what’s the deal with Tacon/LC? Are they the same company? Same models with different names? If they’re different, how are they different? I’m torn between the Tacon Balwark and Tacon Valor Brushless models and the LC Racing equivalents. I really like LC truggy kit and would probably go that route. Would a 3650/3930kv fit? I have the below combo that I can throw in if so. If not, it may better to just buy the ARTR version because the price is pretty good considering I would need to buy a power system.

What is the 15% off Nitro RCX coupon code?

Sorry for all the questions but like in your OP, today is my birthday and I want to get one of these. I’ve narrowed it down. I’ve also thought about the Hobao Hyper TT and using the Hobbystar combo in it. What do you think? Would that be a better option over the LC?

Thanks in advance!

https://www.rcjuice.com/motor-esc/hobbystar-waterproof-60a-brushless-sensorless-esc.html

https://www.rcjuice.com/motor-esc/hobbystar-3650-brushless-sensorless-motor.html
 
Not too much traffic on RCTalk so I’m copying what I posted over there to here.

@slick2500 i thought it would be better to continue my questions here rather than the Arrma forum.

So, what’s the deal with Tacon/LC? Are they the same company? Same models with different names? If they’re different, how are they different? I’m torn between the Tacon Balwark and Tacon Valor Brushless models and the LC Racing equivalents. I really like LC truggy kit and would probably go that route. Would a 3650/3930kv fit? I have the below combo that I can throw in if so. If not, it may better to just buy the ARTR version because the price is pretty good considering I would need to buy a power system.

What is the 15% off Nitro RCX coupon code?

Sorry for all the questions but like in your OP, today is my birthday and I want to get one of these. I’ve narrowed it down. I’ve also thought about the Hobao Hyper TT and using the Hobbystar combo in it. What do you think? Would that be a better option over the LC?

Thanks in advance!

https://www.rcjuice.com/motor-esc/hobbystar-waterproof-60a-brushless-sensorless-esc.html

https://www.rcjuice.com/motor-esc/hobbystar-3650-brushless-sensorless-motor.html
LC Racing is the OEM, Tacon is just a rebrand.
They are 99.9% the same, only difference is the Tacons come with PVC bodies and 2 gear diffs, the LC Racing vehicles come with Lexan/polycarbonate bodies and 4 gear diffs.
No a 36mm motor can will not fit you need a 28xx-29xx sized motor.
Sitewide- Save Extra 10% Off with Coupon Code "NITRORCX"

The Hobao Hyper TTe is in a different playing field than the LC Racing stuff as it is right around the same size as the Arrma Granite, whereas the LC Racing vehicles are in around the size of the Mini E-Revo. And it really just depends on where you are going to drive them to be honest. The TTe is bigger and will have better ground clearance ect. Look through the Hyper TTe thread over on RCtech it does have a few quirks that need to be addressed out of the box.

Bang for buck you cannot go wrong with this esc https://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Redca...670122&hash=item592933e801:g:2GkAAOSwKPxa2V40

Another alternative would be the BLX120 but it doesn't have a 7.4v BEC like the Max10 SCT Rtr does but the Max10 SCT RTR is limited to 3s while the BLX120 can do 4s. https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...trol-outcast-ara102690?variant=20378691141686

I would not use that motor that is a 3650F motor it is a 380 sized motor with fins to make it 3650. Not good motors for anything bigger than a 2wd buggy really. For the TTe look at motors in the 3660 size https://www.rcjuice.com/motor-esc/b...le-brushless-sensorless-motor-waterproof.html
 
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I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out @slick2500. I think I may go with the LC Truggy kit because I've been itching to build something. Plus, this is going to replace my daughters Redcat EXT because it can't handle big jumps and the shock tower snapped off 5 minutes in on the first bash. That kind of stuff will turn a new driver away...especially my daughter. I felt bad for her so I handed my radio over to her to drive my Typhon and ET. I need it to be as tough as it can be so I think the beefier diffs are a good option comparatively.

I can either do this or buy some M2C or PPS-RC upgrades for my Typhon and ET. I think the better way to go for now is to get my daughter a better RC because she enjoyed it when she was driving a decent rig.
 
Anyone have a Warren RC or Riptide coupon code?
I've never seen any.

But if you want the truggy kit go with Warren Rc Steve is a really nice guy he's active on the LC Racing Facebook page and is always willing to help others out.

A few recommendations buy the spare bearing kit, it's like $6 and when assembling the slipper near the diff pinion gear use 2 bearings instead of 1. Use red loctite on the tiny screws holding the diff pinion gears onto the output shafts both front and rear and also on the grub screws holding on the out drive cups for the center driveshaft. Loctite the wheel nuts. And if you bend the front cvds buy 2 dog bones and 2 of the stub axles for the rear. Install the dogbones in the front, you will need to use some orings in the drive cups to keep the dog bones from falling out. 1 on each side of the diff and 1 in each stub axle.

1 wheel landings will break the hubs.

For aftermarket wheels/tires 2.2 Proline Trenchers and 2.2 Duratrax Lockups are the only premounts that have the correct offset. DE Racing used to make some wheels for the Mini E-Revo that were the correct offset but they are discontinued. Rear 2.2 buggy tires will fit on the stock truggy wheels.
 
My own comment is don't get a Hobao Hyper 10TTe. I have a bunch of videos on the truck.
 
I've never seen any.

But if you want the truggy kit go with Warren Rc Steve is a really nice guy he's active on the LC Racing Facebook page and is always willing to help others out.

A few recommendations buy the spare bearing kit, it's like $6 and when assembling the slipper near the diff pinion gear use 2 bearings instead of 1. Use red loctite on the tiny screws holding the diff pinion gears onto the output shafts both front and rear and also on the grub screws holding on the out drive cups for the center driveshaft. Loctite the wheel nuts. And if you bend the front cvds buy 2 dog bones and 2 of the stub axles for the rear. Install the dogbones in the front, you will need to use some orings in the drive cups to keep the dog bones from falling out. 1 on each side of the diff and 1 in each stub axle.

1 wheel landings will break the hubs.

For aftermarket wheels/tires 2.2 Proline Trenchers and 2.2 Duratrax Lockups are the only premounts that have the correct offset. DE Racing used to make some wheels for the Mini E-Revo that were the correct offset but they are discontinued. Rear 2.2 buggy tires will fit on the stock truggy wheels.

Well, I talked to Steve and he said he is out of all the RTR esc’s. I may just go with the Bulwalk...

Which do you prefer to drive @slick2500, your MT or truggy?
My own comment is don't get a Hobao Hyper 10TTe. I have a bunch of videos on the truck.

I will check them out.
 
Well, I talked to Steve and he said he is out of all the RTR esc’s. I may just go with the Bulwalk...

Which do you prefer to drive @slick2500, your MT or truggy?


I will check them out.

I thought you were getting the Mod 1 kit?

Truggy, it handles much better, the MT is a bit squirrelly and much harder to control in the air.
 
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