No fan engine cooling solution

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SSSF

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
  2. Raider
  3. Vorteks
You can use your metal chassis as cooling plate if you use a thermal pad between the engine and the chassis.

I got a small piece to test with a 5 mm height. It was trimmed down in the middle to 2.5mm because that is the distance between my motor and chassis on my kraton. This can be easily done with a knife.

Some specs: run with new 4S 6000mAh 50C continuous, 100C burst.
Pignon: 15T.
Outside temperature 23 degree C (73F).
Engine temp was 55 degreee C (131F) when lipo was almost empty, I was trying to get as mush power as possible through engine by going full trottle and full brake continuously on grass surface.
Chassis temperature was 46 degree C (111F) underneath motor and almost the complete chassis felt a bit warm, although underneath motor the hottest.

In the image you can see that I only had a part of the motor connected to the chassis, I still need to trim the piece lying behind it to have the complete motor area connected to the chassis.
IMG_20190611_202452.jpg


Here is the type used: https://www.digikey.nl/product-detail/en/t-global-technology/TG6050-25-20-5/1168-1695-ND/3300353
 
As an IT guy, I’m familiar with this material as it’s used often with various chips in computing. It’s usually semi soft spongy material. Easy to mold. Cheap too. Great idea.
 
Would this be considered the same thing?
 

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Motor temps before where to hot to touch, so way above 60°C, and then I was not even trying to do put it under max load.
I know the engine motor mount helps too, but with the pad you feel that the chassis is warmer.
As you can see in the datasheet I provided, the more pressure you give it the better the heat transfer.

I think I can do a better job here. I cut it to size( removed the round motor area) and used matches, screwdriver and whatnot to puch it under the motor from the back. I could not get it further so that is the reason the second pad is not installed.

I need to remove motor place it correctly and then install motor again. Trying to put max pressure on pad and position pignon correctly. That might be a challenge. At least I know know where to position the pad.
 
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Might be easier to put a line behind the motor on the chassis, then remove the center assembly with the motor, clean your chassis with DA, then apply the pad to the chassis at the line (leave a bit extra to allow for pinion changes, then put the center assembly back in. Then the pad is where you want it and it fully seats in the valleys of the ridges on the motor can.
 
I like the simplicity of this.
I'm designing a liquid cooled setup for my kraton v2. Water jacket for a rc boat, small mag drive pump (no leaks) and a real 40mm x 120mm radiator for a computer
 
I like the simplicity of this.
I'm designing a liquid cooled setup for my kraton v2. Water jacket for a rc boat, small mag drive pump (no leaks) and a real 40mm x 120mm radiator for a computer
Lets not hijack this thread but I got good experience with these pumps from aliexpress.
All of them can be used submerged, so you can put them inside your resevoir. Get the amphibious type with in and output connector if you do not want to put them inside your resevoir. They are so cheap you can have lying spares around (although I never need to use it).
PM me for more information
 
I like the simplicity of this.
I'm designing a liquid cooled setup for my kraton v2. Water jacket for a rc boat, small mag drive pump (no leaks) and a real 40mm x 120mm radiator for a computer

A liquid cooled setup cant be that hard.. Most of those RC boats run a liquid cooling system.. Sucks water out of the lake.. Cools.. And spitts it out.. Repeat.. Only thing you need to do.. Is connect the in and outlet to make a circle..
 
A liquid cooled setup cant be that hard.. Most of those RC boats run a liquid cooling system.. Sucks water out of the lake.. Cools.. And spitts it out.. Repeat.. Only thing you need to do.. Is connect the in and outlet to make a circle..
Do I have to drive in a lake? ??‍♂️
 
A liquid cooled setup cant be that hard.. Most of those RC boats run a liquid cooling system.. Sucks water out of the lake.. Cools.. And spitts it out.. Repeat.. Only thing you need to do.. Is connect the in and outlet to make a circle..
Pretty sure they work off physical motion through the water, not an actual pump. On the ones I've seen, there's a pipe that is straight down in the water at the end of the boat, sometimes on the rudder and it's cut an an angle forward so the water is pushed into the tube.

With a closed loop water cooled system, you would need a reservoir or at least a radiator and fan. Otherwise it's just holding the heat. On a boat, the water supply is likely cooler than 100F always, so it's always bringing in cool water and expelling hot. Would hate to be in a pond or river that was much over 100F. lol! Welcome to my hottub!
 
I like the simplicity of this.
I'm designing a liquid cooled setup for my kraton v2. Water jacket for a rc boat, small mag drive pump (no leaks) and a real 40mm x 120mm radiator for a computer
Lol, I had the same idea. Look into water wetter. It’s added to coolant in motorcycle engines for track use. Some sort of water pump would be needed.
https://www.kamispeed.com/products/red-line-water-wetter-12-oz?variant=13836523569196&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpavpBRDQARIsAPfTwiwApAnWxs3a4rZL89ruTwRcqpYgmX2-N8vFOpH2TnQ-Bggdln9mAdEaAhM4EALw_wcB
Maybe something like this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-6V-12...mersible-Motor-Pump-1-8M-230L-H-/291633538341
 
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