Typhon Nose heavy - help

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BulletRCs_NZ

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I'm finding my 6s Typhon has a tendency to get a bit nose heavy over jumps. I have to make sure I boost the throttle on take off to keep the nose up. On 4s I can't even take it over my ramp because it will just lawn dart everything.

Could this be due to the stock light centre diff oil? I'm wondering if the rear wheels aren't driving as hard at launch because the power is going to the front as they leave the ramp.

This is my only disappointment with this rig. I'm hoping thicker centre diff oil might help keep the rear driving more as the front leaves the ramp.
 
What diff oils you running? Thicken the center if anything. Set more droop at the rear. And less shock preload at the back.
What is your punch setting? Did you add a front bumper?
Def start with the center diff first IMHO. You are probably diffing out. Getting too much forward chassis rotation. 300k is a start.
 
I can't see how the oils will effect it, it's a such a short duration where front leave the ramp before the rears, that I find it hard it has any effect.

punch is very important for mid-air control, set it to the max, and jump with "neutral" throttle and adjust throttle after the jump depending on how the car tilts
 
I've got the punch set to 7. I will bump it up to 9 and see what happens.
What diff oils you running? Thicken the center if anything. Set more droop at the rear. And less shock preload at the back.
What is your punch setting? Did you add a front bumper?
Def start with the center diff first IMHO. You are probably diffing out. Getting too much forward chassis rotation. 300k is a start.

Apart from adding some preload to the shocks front and rear everything else is stock, whatever is out of the box for the V5. It's only 4 weeks and 25 packs old.

Edit - no bumper added as yet. I quite like the look without a bumper.
 
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Most likely it is slamming the rear end on takeoff which donkey-kicks it forward and makes it nose-dive.

Try raising the rear end (hell, raise the whole car) by ADDING preload all around. Also try smoothly approaching the ramp already at speed instead of crawling up to it and then mashing the throttle to make it jump (if that's what you're doing).
 
Most likely it is slamming the rear end on takeoff which donkey-kicks it forward and makes it nose-dive.

Try raising the rear end (hell, raise the whole car) by ADDING preload all around. Also try smoothly approaching the ramp already at speed instead of crawling up to it and then mashing the throttle to make it jump (if that's what you're doing).

Nah I hit the same jump with my 3s Typhon and I usually have to break to keep the nose down. Infact it's the same with my Team Assoc 3s rigs, only my 6s Typhon suffers from this. And to be honest it's not a huge issue as such. On 6s I have enough air control to land it no probs it just likes to dive a bit more than I'm use too. This is my first 6s and it's so much heavier than my other rigs.
 
Preload in the front shocks will help "bounce" the front up a little for you , 300k in the center will give you more even power distribution so the back tires will help to "pull" the front up and rotate ( just like guys jumping dirtbikes ), raising the punch will give you more instant " snap " of power. What you have working against you is that stock Typhon tires are light , when I truggified my Typhon with the bigger tires , it was a wheelie / backflip machine on command !!!
 
Baahaaha.. he said donkey-kick, yea i would try to preload the front shocks, hold the car in ur hand and find a good middle balance point, see what kind of snap that thing has.. Nose diving a dirt bike is similar, usually happens from rolling off the throttle before leaving the face, bad or slow shock rebound or slow fork rebound, i would try adjusting the shocks first!?
 
Here is another issue that can be at play here.. how fast are you hitting the ramp on 4s? If your leaving the ramp at full song or close to, it will never make enough power to bring it out of the nose dive, no matter the fluid weight, or suspension setup..

You say it only happens on 4s, leads me to believe you have already tapped out the power as you leave, or before you leave the ramp.. something to keep in mind...👍
 
I can't see how the oils will effect it, it's a such a short duration where front leave the ramp before the rears, that I find it hard it has any effect.

punch is very important for mid-air control, set it to the max, and jump with "neutral" throttle and adjust throttle after the jump depending on how the car tilts
I feel the moment the nose hits the ramp, that the rear will start to unload, then when the front wheels clear, a weak center diff will cause diffing out. Thats when the front wheels spin way much faster with that initial air, causing excessive forward rotation before the rear wheels can catch up in RPMS. Like a rear wheel braking effect causing the front to nose dive. All this is fast and momentary, and puts the rig in a nose down orientation.. Thicker oil at center can keep F-R wheels closer in RPMS. Yes more punch can help with control. It's why I asked about the OP's Punch setting. And even rear shock and droop adjustments can offset nose diving, exiting a ramp/jump. Guys at the track will even adjust their wings for more rear downforce. Think Typhon TLRT wing, for instance, with the adjustable wicker bills and wing mount orientation adjustments to dial that rear downforce..
I guess there can be differing views on this?:unsure:

Edited.

While hitting the ramp, are you full Thr. before, through, and past the ramp? This can reduce/eliminate any available air rotation control.
Your issue may be a combination of reasons why.
 
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Post video, it will be obvious what the problem is after that.
 
I feel the moment the nose hits the ramp, that the rear will start to unload, then when the front wheels clear, a weak center diff will cause diffing out. Thats when the front wheels spin way much faster with that initial air, causing excessive forward rotation before the rear wheels can catch up in RPMS. Like a rear wheel braking effect causing the front to nose dive. All this is fast and momentary, and puts the rig in a nose down orientation.. Thicker oil at center can keep F-R wheels closer in RPMS. Yes more punch can help with control. It's why I asked about the OP's Punch setting. And even rear shock and droop adjustments can offset nose diving, exiting a ramp/jump. Guys at the track will even adjust their wings for more rear downforce. Think Typhon TLRT wing, for instance, with the adjustable wicker bills and wing mount orientation adjustments to dial that rear downforce..
I guess there can be differing views on this?:unsure:

Edited.

While hitting the ramp, are you full Thr. before, through, and past the ramp? This can reduce/eliminate any available air rotation control.
Your issue may be a combination of reasons why.

I believe SrC has nailed it hear. Gave it multiple runs with both 6s and 4s yesterday. I'm certain heavier centre diff oil will make a difference.

Have to remember I'm coming from a diet of light plastic 3s rigs to a metal chassis 6s so there is going to be some adjustment.

I'll drop a video today see if it helps. Thanks for all your comments so far.
 
The driver 🤣🤣🤣


Yeah I agree. Thanks bro 👍
No problem👊🏼 Like I said though before I'd go up to 500k in center diff and 50-60k in front diff. You'll notice a big difference especially in throttle response and handling👍🏼here's an old video of the maiden bash with my v5 Typhon after I got it and went to 500k center 50k front and I believe a 18t pinion.
 
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