Typhon Nose heavy - help

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Most likely it is slamming the rear end on takeoff which donkey-kicks it forward and makes it nose-dive.

Try raising the rear end (hell, raise the whole car) by ADDING preload all around. Also try smoothly approaching the ramp already at speed instead of crawling up to it and then mashing the throttle to make it jump (if that's what you're doing).

Thanks for posting the video, it's exactly what I said. When you go slow (crawl) up to the ramp and then mash the throttle like you did in the first jump, what happens is it squats the rear end which gets the chassis rear low to the ground. Then when you hit the ramp, the rear end smacks the ramp and kicks it up, which causes the nose to dive.

When you drive smoothly at a constant speed up to the ramp, the car is staying level instead of squatting the rear because it's not accelerating and transferring weight to the rear end. So when it hits the ramp, the chassis doesn't smack the ramp and kick the rear end up.

If you want to make it more forgiving, you can raise the car up/add preload. If you had the TLRT, you could also add rear anti-squat to counteract this effect.

IMO, has nothing to do with diff oils or whatever other theories have been posited.
 
Thanks for posting the video, it's exactly what I said. When you go slow (crawl) up to the ramp and then mash the throttle like you did in the first jump, what happens is it squats the rear end which gets the chassis rear low to the ground. Then when you hit the ramp, the rear end smacks the ramp and kicks it up, which causes the nose to dive.

When you drive smoothly at a constant speed up to the ramp, the car is staying level instead of squatting the rear because it's not accelerating and transferring weight to the rear end. So when it hits the ramp, the chassis doesn't smack the ramp and kick the rear end up.

If you want to make it more forgiving, you can raise the car up/add preload. If you had the TLRT, you could also add rear anti-squat to counteract this effect.

IMO, has nothing to do with diff oils or whatever other theories have been posited.

Thanks for watching and taking the time to diagnose it like that. Was probably the best jumping session yet with the 6s Typhon.
 
Thanks for the video. Nice property you have there bro. Such a contrast to what I own. Because I drive on a very high traction surface would thick centre diff oil risk chewing gears because it won't slip?
Thanks! No I've not had any issues and I run the same 50-60F,500C,10R in all my bashing rigs. I have made sure the diffs are shimmed right though but I have some hard landings and a heavy trigger finger also and still no issues with my diff gears or pinion/spur. It will still allow the center diff to slip just not near as easy. The power and torque from the motor takes quite a bit to completely stop the diff from slipping, it would take like 1mil+ weight oil or more.
 
Thats some amazing green grass you got there! you reminded me how amazing the grass is down there.

As others said above, avoid accelerating on the ramp, build the speed before you reach it.

Thank you bro. We have had a damp start to summer so my paddocks are very lush at the moment.

And yes steady acceleration is the key. 👍💪💯
 
What diff oils you running? Thicken the center if anything. Set more droop at the rear. And less shock preload at the back.
What is your punch setting? Did you add a front bumper?
Def start with the center diff first IMHO. You are probably diffing out. Getting too much forward chassis rotation. 300k is a start.

300k in the centre and 💥 its a different buggie. Flies effortlessly now with the nose up. I also upped the pinion to 20t. I can't believe the difference. You nailed it bro 👏
I'd try not only going up to like 500k in center but also thicken up the front to like 50k so more power is distributed to the rear with the thinner fluid.

I put 300k in the centre and it now flies like an eagle. Thanks bro 🙏
 
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