Typhon Notes on differential maintenance / shimming

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TyphonDude

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A while ago, after a dirty bash on muddy wet grass, the rear wheels of my Typhon 6S stopped spinning. The front wheels were fine, and the dogbone shaft leading to the rear wheels were spinning. But the rear wheels were stuck.

Turned out that the rear differential gears were shredded. Both the input gear, and the main 43T gear, which mate to each other, were shredded. See photos at the end of the the post.

Part to fix is Arrma Diff Set Front/Rear 43T Straight Typhon, AR220028 $90.99, which includes the input gear, main 43T, along with diff case, internal gears/seals, etc. Note it doesn't come with bearings.

Although the exisitng internal gears and case looked fine, I found that after re-assembling and screwing the cover back on that it was too tight. Not sure why it was so tight, but I ended up replacing the case and internal gears with the new ones that came with the AR220028 diff set.

Then I found that one of the bearings were stuck. So replaced both bearings with XY940816 XRAY HIGH-SPEED BALL-BEARING 8X16X5 RUBBER SEALED (2) $11.08 for 2 bearings.

Another tip is to use brake cleaner to clean the crusty internal parts. Mine were covered in black dirty stuff. Spray directly onto the parts into a plastic container, use outdoors, and wear a mask, hold your breath. Any remaining fluid in the plastic container will evaporate after a day, but keep the container with remaining fluid outdoors.

Since the diff was open, might as well replace the shims. The original shims were in really bad condition, all warped. Some say the original shims are too thin and to double or get thicker Mugen Seiki E0206 shims. Couldn't find that brand, but found these, which are the same size as the Mugen Seiki: XY964030 XRAY WASHER S 3.5X12X0.2 10PCS - XY964030 $13.29. Need 4 per diff, so 12 in total. That's two of the 10PCS XRAY packs, with 8 left over.

Last tip is to also add a shim between the o-ring and little rod, mainly to protect the o-ring from getting shredded by the rod. The Typhon V4 comes with this already, and the part number is ARA709057: Arrma Shim 5.4x9.5x0.2mm (8) $11.98. Need 2 per diff, so 6 in total. That's just one pack. Note there's a video on YouTube that recommends another brand, but it must have been made before V4 Typhon - Use the Arrma ones instead.







See the photo below. I can't find any photos of the shredded main gear, but here's a photo of the input gear ... the gear on the right is bad, the gear on the left is good:

input gear.jpg
 
Good morning. Hey great write up. I wanted to say i spent like $75 on the new HR diff cup, mugen gears and shims, diff fluid, shock fluid F&R and an input. I just wanted to throw that out there.
In regards to shims. I find adding shims then put the planetary gears in and then put the sun gear on top. If it looks flush with the cup with gasket on verified by straight edge I am good to go.

Great idea on putting a shim behind the pin. What size shim did you use behind the pin? Id like to find some small enough that it wont push the pin further into the cup. Thanks
 
A while ago, after a dirty bash on muddy wet grass, the rear wheels of my Typhon 6S stopped spinning. The front wheels were fine, and the dogbone shaft leading to the rear wheels were spinning. But the rear wheels were stuck.

Turned out that the rear differential gears were shredded. Both the input gear, and the main 43T gear, which mate to each other, were shredded. See photos at the end of the the post.

Part to fix is Arrma Diff Set Front/Rear 43T Straight Typhon, AR220028 $90.99, which includes the input gear, main 43T, along with diff case, internal gears/seals, etc. Note it doesn't come with bearings.

Although the exisitng internal gears and case looked fine, I found that after re-assembling and screwing the cover back on that it was too tight. Not sure why it was so tight, but I ended up replacing the case and internal gears with the new ones that came with the AR220028 diff set.

Then I found that one of the bearings were stuck. So replaced both bearings with XY940816 XRAY HIGH-SPEED BALL-BEARING 8X16X5 RUBBER SEALED (2) $11.08 for 2 bearings.

Another tip is to use brake cleaner to clean the crusty internal parts. Mine were covered in black dirty stuff. Spray directly onto the parts into a plastic container, use outdoors, and wear a mask, hold your breath. Any remaining fluid in the plastic container will evaporate after a day, but keep the container with remaining fluid outdoors.

Since the diff was open, might as well replace the shims. The original shims were in really bad condition, all warped. Some say the original shims are too thin and to double or get thicker Mugen Seiki E0206 shims. Couldn't find that brand, but found these, which are the same size as the Mugen Seiki: XY964030 XRAY WASHER S 3.5X12X0.2 10PCS - XY964030 $13.29. Need 4 per diff, so 12 in total. That's two of the 10PCS XRAY packs, with 8 left over.

Last tip is to also add a shim between the o-ring and little rod, mainly to protect the o-ring from getting shredded by the rod. The Typhon V4 comes with this already, and the part number is ARA709057: Arrma Shim 5.4x9.5x0.2mm (8) $11.98. Need 2 per diff, so 6 in total. That's just one pack. Note there's a video on YouTube that recommends another brand, but it must have been made before V4 Typhon - Use the Arrma ones instead.







See the photo below. I can't find any photos of the shredded main gear, but here's a photo of the input gear ... the gear on the right is bad, the gear on the left is good:

View attachment 107400
You could have bought this for $44 and saved some time and money

https://jennysrc.com/products/arrma...-front-rear-typhon-infraction-senton-ar109011
 
I spent like £25-30 on a shitload of shims after having this exact issue, though mine took an entire tooth off the input gear.
That was shims for the input gear, planetary gears and the sun gear and more that I'm forgetting, undoubtedly the best thing I've done for it.

Managed to snap a sun gear pin into three pieces too.
 
My typhon 3s blx just had same issue. Do you know if that 6s diff will be a direct fit in the 3s? Id far prefer replacing the entire set up with a 6s worthy part rather than tinkering with shims etc.
I can't say whether you could fit the 6S drivetrain into your 3S model, however I can assure you the 6S drivetrain still demands shimming, inexcusable in my opinion.
 
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