Notorious 6S Center diff Oil to use

[drod50]

hi I was bashing my Notorious 6S and noticed the vehicle started going slower. I then noticed some smoke coming out of it when I pulled up to me and I shut it right off. Noticed oil in there. Do I then let it sit for a bit. I then tried to use it the next day where it moved. After running it a bit it is no longer moving. The back tires seem to be fine, but not the front times. Is this a center diff issue or a front diff issue? I have not taken it apart yet, but plan too. If I find that the center diff is in bad shape and I have to purchase a new one. When I do what type of oil is good for a diff to make sure it lasts? Where would I get the oil? I also was wondering will this one be good to replace with: https://www.towerhobbies.com/product/center-diff-set-50t-100k-oil/ARA310959.html

Just preparing my parts list, which most likely may be a diff issue. The complaint I do have is that I only had this vehicle for less than a month and I would think that bashing it with 6S for a bit will be alright. Maybe there is an issue with the diff in these vehicles. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[#ARRMArcfanboy4life]

I would guess that the diff was not shimmed properly from the factory so you busted some of the internal gears.

 

[SrC]

Yes this:

https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA310959

I would empty the OE filled Silicone fluid (100k) of the NEW diff for sure!!!, and use 200k (minimum) or even go with 300k and 500k. I run 500k/center in my Noto. This will liven up your Notorious. Less ballooning at the front wheels also. Will drive much better.
I would rebuild all 3 diffs while you are at it. The other F/R diffs are probably underfilled and are only 10k cst oil OE filled. They are on borrowed time if still running stock Oil and never serviced before.
Use 30-60k front/ 20-30k at the rear diff. These diffs are under filled and with too thin of an oil "out the box" to begin with for extreme bashing.
Up your oil CST's like I stated above. All 3 diffs.
I would recommend using the Arrma Optional Metal diff at the center while rebuilding and you are in there already. It usually gets the hottest of the 3 diffs. Make sure to fill your diffs full while allowing the air to rise out of the oil before cosing it. Let the diffs sit open on the bench for 1/2 hour or more at a minimum. Then add more oil to within 2mm of the top. Then close it up. Important to not underfill and leave alot of air inside any diff.

https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA220050

 

[#ARRMArcfanboy4life]

I would empty the OE filled Silicone fluid (100k) of the NEW diff for sure!!!, and use 200k (minimum) or even go with 300k and 500k. I run 500k/center in my Noto. This will liven up your Notorious. Less ballooning at the front wheels also. Will drive much better.

I use silicone earplugs from amazon to plug the diff, it is cheaper and faster than oil. I heard people say it puts more stress on the drive-train but that really isn't the case.

 

[Edough13]

Not sure what your issue may be with the smoking etc. You'll need to pull everything apart and check it out. But I run 500k in my Noto and Kraton and it wakes the rig up and gives better response for sure.

 

[Yas]

If you're seeing oil residue and smoke and now you're having drive issues, I reckon you've cooked a diff after it had been leaking. The centre diff internals are usually the ones to give out to overheating

 

[Notorious J]

Once you get the other dif issues sorted out, the correct fluid to use would be

 

[drod50]

Alright finally was able to tear the truck apart. What I found is a very cooked center differential. Look at the pictures. Very bad. Rebuilt a new one and then I ended up going with 100k in the new one because I could not find 200k available at the time. It was my first rebuild I have ever done on an RC. Was tricky getting everything back together and referenced the notorious exploded diagram multiple times. Tested the truck last night and it runs great. This winter I may take it a part again to get 200 k in it. Overall I am happy to be back using my truck. Thanks everyone! Just need to lay off the throttle.

 

[Yas]

Alright finally was able to tear the truck apart. What I found is a very cooked center differential. Look at the pictures. Very bad. Rebuilt a new one and then I ended up going with 100k in the new one because I could not find 200k available at the time. It was my first rebuild I have ever done on an RC. Was tricky getting everything back together and referenced the notorious exploded diagram multiple times. Tested the truck last night and it runs great. This winter I may take it a part again to get 200 k in it. Overall I am happy to be back using my truck. Thanks everyone! Just need to lay off the throttle.

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The plastic cup melts because it was diffing out at a low oil level, thanks to the factory builder. It creates a lot of friction and blows diffs. The one thing you want to do with a new Arrma is check the diff oils - they are notorious for being low

 

[SrC]

Alright finally was able to tear the truck apart. What I found is a very cooked center differential. Look at the pictures. Very bad. Rebuilt a new one and then I ended up going with 100k in the new one because I could not find 200k available at the time. It was my first rebuild I have ever done on an RC. Was tricky getting everything back together and referenced the notorious exploded diagram multiple times. Tested the truck last night and it runs great. This winter I may take it a part again to get 200 k in it. Overall I am happy to be back using my truck. Thanks everyone! Just need to lay off the throttle.

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Yeah been there also. Looked the same on one of my centers. But I have done even worse. Where the whole diff was a molten melted hunk of plastic and gears.
All that remained usable was the Spur gear. And actually, it too, had runnout due to the temps. My temp gun showed over 250F at the time it failed.
100k may not cut it. That is stock weight. Drive it more gently. Lower your punch value one nothch to compensate, if your trigger control is yet to be refined. I say 300k at minimum for hard bashing. But 500k works fine for me. And others even go to 1 mil. Yes, silicone diff oils, the thicker weights, are hard to source these days. Fill it well. Even underfilling a diff with say 100k for example, can make the diff run more like it has 50k in it. Food for thought.
Practice your driving skills.....

 

[drod50]

The plastic cup melts because it was diffing out at a low oil level, thanks to the factory builder. It creates a lot of friction and blows diffs. The one thing you want to do with a new Arrma is check the diff oils - they are notorious for being low

Second Armma car besides the granite, which has had no differential issues. Had other issues. I will keep an eye on this next time I get another one. Thank you for the heads up!

Yeah been there also. Looked the same on one of my centers. But I have done even worse. Where the whole diff was a molten melted hunk of plastic and gears.
All that remained usable was the Spur gear. And actually, it too, had runnout due to the temps. My temp gun showed over 250F at the time it failed.
100k may not cut it. That is stock weight. Drive it more gently. Lower your punch value one nothch to compensate, if your trigger control is yet to be refined. I say 300k at minimum for hard bashing. But 500k works fine for me. And others even go to 1 mil. Yes, silicone diff oils, the thicker weights, are hard to source these days. Fill it well. Even underfilling a diff with say 100k for example, can make the diff run more like it has 50k in it. Food for thought.
Practice your driving skills.....

I think I can use some of the parts in the old differential once I of open it and clean the parts. I was running two 3s batteries in mine and of course was bashing hard on it. That’s what did it. Going back to two 4s for now. What a difference in speed though. We learn as we go. Thanks for the advice!

 

[SrC]

I use silicone earplugs from amazon to plug the diff, it is cheaper and faster than oil. I heard people say it puts more stress on the drive-train but that really isn't the case.

Basically earplugs are like 1mil I guess. Depends how many ear plugs you can get in there. Not enough of them and that can cause problems too. Some have used Silly Putty crammed into the sat and sun gears also. At some point as you approach locking the center diff, it will wear the the F/R diffs sooner than later with offroad rigs and their large MT tires. Cause drivetrain damage. Bent F/R driveshafts. Depends on the rig in question, its running weight and whether running 8s as opposed to 6s. And how you bash. Personally I like an open center diff with some diff action. That is purely subjective however.