Notorious Notorious exb center diff?

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Celtic Wolf

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton EXB
  2. Notorious
  3. Typhon 6s
Hey guys, does anyone know if I can throw an exb center diff in my Notorious?
 
Awesome, thanks!
You can also run the front and rear EXB diffs as well they are a direct drop in you just need to make sure you run the EXB input gears too.
 
Be careful I just did that to my noto I just put video of it out today. Soon u put a little pressure on the trigger it wants to come off the ground. Still getting used to it
 
Be careful I just did that to my noto I just put video of it out today. Soon u put a little pressure on the trigger it wants to come off the ground. Still getting used to it
It's a lot different than the stock diff with 100k that's for sure.
 
Be careful I just did that to my noto I just put video of it out today. Soon u put a little pressure on the trigger it wants to come off the ground. Still getting used to it
New noto owner here. For clarification, are you saying that an exb diff in center will cause the car to wheelie easy? Thanks
 
^^^

@Lil Dylan , maybe, maybe NOT make it wheelie better or more so.
Is there a reason to toss the standard "Open RTR center diff" you have?
Have you tried using thicker Diff oil in all the diffs of your Noto? I run 60kF/ 500k center/30K Rr Oils in my Noto, Mojave, Kraton, and FT rigs. Are all Open diffs. The rig will noticeably liven up. Will wheelie on demand much easier.. It doesn't take much to make the Noto wheelie at all if that is even important to you. IDK.
If you never opened up your Noto diffs and dialed them in better, I would try that first. Way cheaper than jumping to the EXB LSD diffs. Just buy diff oils I stated above.
Yes as stated above by other posts EXB LSD diffs are Plug and Play. Just cost way more. And harder to setup also IMHO. They are ok also. But a different animal altogether. They get dialed in differently with the LSD plate staging. I think its good to work with what you got. You may be undwerwhelmed with the EXB diffs, at least for what your objective is.

Also, have you turned the Punch setting Up in the ESC? Its all in the manual. Need to read it. This will make you drive on the rear 2 wheels all day long if that is your thing.:giggle: Up the ESC Punch and change out all your diff oils first(y)

Edited.
 
Last edited:
^^^

@Lil Dylan , maybe, maybe NOT make it wheelie better or more so.
Is there a reason to toss the standard "Open RTR center diff" you have?
Have you tried using thicker Diff oil in all the diffs of your Noto? I run 60kF/ 500k center/30K Rr Oils in my Noto, Mojave, Kraton, and FT rigs. Are all Open diffs. The rig will noticeably liven up. Will wheelie on demand much easier.. It doesn't take much to make the Noto wheelie at all if that is even important to you. IDK.
If you never opened up your Noto diffs and dialed them in better, I would try that first. Way cheaper than jumping to the EXB LSD diffs. Just buy diff oils I stated above.
Yes as stated above by other posts EXB LSD diffs are Plug and Play. Just cost way more. And harder to setup also IMHO. They are ok also. But a different animal altogether. They get dialed in differently with the LSD plate staging. I think its good to work with what you got. You may be undwerwhelmed with the EXB diffs, at least for what your objective is.

Also, have you turned the Punch setting Up in the ESC? Its all in the manual. Need to read it. This will make you drive on the rear 2 wheels all day long if that is your thing.:giggle: Up the ESC Punch and change out all your diff oils first(y)

Edited.
I'm a hardcore modifier with real cars and toy cars so now that I got my Noto of course I'm researching what everyone modifies. However, I have decided to just stick with the stock diffs and get some shim kits for rebuild. Thankfully these diffs are really easy to get to unlike my rc8b4e race buggy. I was going to get metal diff casings all around. Do you think those are even a worthwhile upgrade? Thanks.
 
I'm a hardcore modifier with real cars and toy cars so now that I got my Noto of course I'm researching what everyone modifies. However, I have decided to just stick with the stock diffs and get some shim kits for rebuild. Thankfully these diffs are really easy to get to unlike my rc8b4e race buggy. I was going to get metal diff casings all around. Do you think those are even a worthwhile upgrade? Thanks.

I would keep the center stock but do open EXB diffs front and rear, I feel the LSD stuff isn't needed but the larger outdrives, larger pins and larger teeth on the external gears are worth it imho. I would at least do the center with an aluminum cup as that is the diff that sees the most diff action VS the front and the rear numerous people have melted their center diffs.
 
I would keep the center stock but do open EXB diffs front and rear, I feel the LSD stuff isn't needed but the larger outdrives, larger pins and larger teeth on the external gears are worth it imho. I would at least do the center with an aluminum cup as that is the diff that sees the most diff action VS the front and the rear numerous people have melted their center diffs.
Thanks, I’ll give that setup some thought.
 
I would keep the center stock but do open EXB diffs front and rear, I feel the LSD stuff isn't needed but the larger outdrives, larger pins and larger teeth on the external gears are worth it imho. I would at least do the center with an aluminum cup as that is the diff that sees the most diff action VS the front and the rear numerous people have melted their center diffs.
+1
Great point.
Yeah the only main reason I would switch to EXB diffs are the more stout Main and input gears And thicker sun gear pins and overall strength. However I would convert them from LSD to OPEN diffs. Just need the Arrma Open Conversion kits. I only run 6s also , I have been good with the Standard RTR Open diffs. I rarely have problems with them. With 8s electrics, I can see why EXB LSD diffs are best. I only use Mugen Seiki shims in my RTR Diffs and they are very strong and durable. I toss the OE diff shims out the box. And now the RTR diffs are very strong and durable enough for me. I am not a big air send it type of guy. But I still drive hard.
Regarding Alloy bulkheads, I find the cheaper stocker Plastic ones fine. Alloys are costly, yet still not 100% indestructible either. Many get them for the Bling factor. $ 200. (F and R) give or take depending which brand you get. I rather spend that Coin on other needed upgrades. Like an M2C chassis and braces and Towers, Alloy hubs, and other stuff first and foremost. Then maybe consider the Alloy Bulkheads last. Vitavons are great. HR is also common. I would stay only with those 2 brands if considering them.
 
Last edited:
+1
Great point.
Yeah the only main reason I would switch to EXB diffs are the more stout Main and input gears And thicker sun gear pins and overall strength. However I would convert them from LSD to OPEN diffs. Just need the Arrma Open Conversion kits. I only run 6s also , I have been good with the Standard RTR Open diffs. I rarely have problems with them. With 8s electrics, I can see why EXB LSD diffs are best. I only use Mugen Seiki shims in my RTR Diffs and they are very strong and durable. I toss the OE diff shims out the box. And now the RTR diffs are very strong and durable enough for me. I am not a big air send it type of guy. But I still drive hard.
Regarding Alloy bulkheads, I find the cheaper stocker Plastic ones fine. Alloys are costly, yet still not 100% indestructible either. Many get them for the Bling factor. $ 200. (F and R) give or take depending which brand you get. I rather spend that Coin on other needed upgrades. Like an M2C chassis and braces and Towers, Alloy hubs, and other stuff first and foremost. Then maybe consider the Alloy Bulkheads last. Vitavons are great. HR is also common. I would stay only with those 2 brands if considering them.

@Moirae or @morrjr71 is currently testing the $22 Aliexpress aluminum bulks with great success. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...fB&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
 
@Moirae or @morrjr71 is currently testing the $22 Aliexpress aluminum bulks with great success. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...fB&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
Actually, I'm using the complete Hot Racing aluminum bulkhead (bulkhead, cover, and sway bar cover) in the rear, and only the bulkhead cover and sway bar cover in the front. So far, I'm really happy with everything: the machining on the bulkhead is great, and I didn't have to shim the diff to get a prefect mesh between the ring and pinion gears. I would recommend the HR bulkhead and covers to anyone experiencing gear mesh issues or cracking bulkheads.
 
Actually, I'm using the complete Hot Racing aluminum bulkhead (bulkhead, cover, and sway bar cover) in the rear, and only the bulkhead cover and sway bar cover in the front. So far, I'm really happy with everything: the machining on the bulkhead is great, and I didn't have to shim the diff to get a prefect mesh between the ring and pinion gears. I would recommend the HR bulkhead and covers to anyone experiencing gear mesh issues or cracking bulkheads.
I'm using the Hot Racing ones as well. So it must have been @Moirae then.
STOP MIXING US UP!!!! you're talking about me!! :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
Sorry I have really bad crs.
 
I'm glad I found this. I've had a broken center diff on my notorious V5 for over a year now. Melted the plastic housing, hoping the internals are all still inside the truck. Where can I find the best price for parts, recommended center diff upgrade, ect. Thanks.
 
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