Notorious Notorious First Drive Impressions

[bicketybam]

Everything is stock except a added heatsink. I did not calibrate the ESC, by that are referring to adjusting its programming settings? That is something I haven't got to yet and I'm not looking forward to because of the cryptic interface (I'm used to programming the ESC with Castle Link).

I'm not referring to programming the ESC (adjusting punch, etc.). I'm talking about calibrating the ESC. There is a section in the manual that explains how to do it. Calibrating the ESC will ensure that when you apply full trottle you actually get full throttle. Same with braking.

Turn on your Tx.

Next to the on/off switch on the truck is a small button. Hold it down and turn on the truck.

Release the button when the ESC starts beeping and flashing red.

With the Tx in neutral press and release that little button next to the on/off switch. The ESC will flash one green light.

Apply full throttle and press/release the button again. ESC flashes 2 green lights.

Apply full brake and press/release the button again. ESC flashes 3 green lights.

Turn off the truck to save the settings.

Done.

 

[sevin7]

@bicketybam thank you! I've found the manual to be cryptic. It provides very few written instructions.

 

[olds97_lss]

Even with it calibrated, the reverse speed is a bit aggressive out of the box. I don't use the stock radio/receiver, so I had to calibrate anyway first thing. I can't remember what I have things set to anymore. Was one of this "did it once, now I'm done screwing around" things.

 

[Dchilton]

Adjust the punch on the esc of the Notorious and shim the diffs ASAP. All the 6S Arrmas need tgat done. Swap your LCG chasis on your slash for the regular chasis. The part is less than $20 and you will have your ground clearance.

 

[sevin7]

The slash needs the LCG chassis or it rolls constantly.

 

[sevin7]

I got the 500k diff fluid in and wow what a difference! It finally accelerates the way it should. I used 80% of my battery during my run then my pinion came loose so I had to stop, at which point my motor was 145F and my center diff was 140F (compared to 160F and 185F with stock diff fluid on 100% battery drain run). My stock pinion came loose (THANKS ARRMA!) and I had to cut it off. Also I got the Jeep body on, I'll post some more about that later. So far this car is proving to be great minus a few stupid things that Arrma needs to fix:

1. The stock center diff fluid is retarded
2. Mount the pinion properly (general assembly quality issues, but I had a similar issue with my Stampede 4x4 VXL)

 

[dbdynsty25]

Jeep body looks sweet. What body posts did you use to get the height? I foresee that body getting destroyed quick lol.

 

[sevin7]

Jeep body looks sweet. What body posts did you use to get the height? I foresee that body getting destroyed quick lol.

The body is nearly indestructible. Read this thread for info about the body and its mounting system.

 

[sevin7]

I'm not referring to programming the ESC (adjusting punch, etc.). I'm talking about calibrating the ESC. There is a section in the manual that explains how to do it. Calibrating the ESC will ensure that when you apply full trottle you actually get full throttle. Same with braking.

Turn on your Tx.

Next to the on/off switch on the truck is a small button. Hold it down and turn on the truck.

Release the button when the ESC starts beeping and flashing red.

With the Tx in neutral press and release that little button next to the on/off switch. The ESC will flash one green light.

Apply full throttle and press/release the button again. ESC flashes 2 green lights.

Apply full brake and press/release the button again. ESC flashes 3 green lights.

Turn off the truck to save the settings.

Done.

@bicketybam this solved my reverse problem. I also had the issue where the truck would come to a stop and then randomly throw itself in reverse without my pressing anything (I've read that others had this problem); this is now gone since doing the ESC calibration, which I found in the manual on page 27 as "Throttle Setup". It appears that Arrma is not doing this properly when assembling the vehicles.... which is really irritating as it makes the truck not "ready to run". Even after doing this the reverse is still very undesirable, but no worse than a stock Traxxas car (I'm used to a castle sensored system which I configured to use 30% reverse)

 

[bicketybam]

@bicketybam this solved my reverse problem. I also had the issue where the truck would come to a stop and then randomly throw itself in reverse without my pressing anything (I've read that others had this problem); this is now gone since doing the ESC calibration, which I found in the manual on page 27 as "Throttle Setup". It appears that Arrma is not doing this properly when assembling the vehicles.... which is really irritating as it makes the truck not "ready to run". Even after doing this the reverse is still very undesirable, but no worse than a stock Traxxas car (I'm used to a castle sensored system which I configured to use 30% reverse)

View attachment 22937

Even my aftermarket Castle ESC's need to be calibrated. I do it every time the ESC is unplugged from the receiver as well. I don't think this is a failure on Arrmas part. Every transmitter is slightly different and it would probably be cost prohibitive to calibrate every truck.

 

[sevin7]

Even my aftermarket Castle ESC's need to be calibrated. I do it every time the ESC is unplugged from the receiver as well. I don't think this is a failure on Arrmas part. Every transmitter is slightly different and it would probably be cost prohibitive to calibrate every truck.

I just checked my Stampede 4x4 VXL box and it came with a nice quick start guide that told me to calibrate the ESC before running and explained very well how to do it. Looks like your right that it needs to be done with any car. Arrma's shortcoming is the lack of clear instructions (no quick start guide, terrible manual). To be fair, the Stampede 4x4 VXL manual (and any other 10th scale brushless Traxxas) should state the following:

• using a 3 cell battery with a fully stock configuration will destroy your drive shafts almost instantly and you will need to spend at least $100 to get drive shafts that can handle the power
• using a 3 cell battery with a fully stock configuration will result in overheating of your motor and ESC
• the plastic shock caps included with this vehicle are useless and will pop off from even minor jumping

I prefer Arrma's missing instructions over those from Traxxas

 

[bicketybam]

What I dislike about the Arrma manual is that they have all the languages on the same page. They should section it off but again, more cost on their end. Things get lost in all the shuffle. I didn't calibrate at first either.

 

[olds97_lss]

Even my aftermarket Castle ESC's need to be calibrated. I do it every time the ESC is unplugged from the receiver as well. I don't think this is a failure on Arrmas part. Every transmitter is slightly different and it would probably be cost prohibitive to calibrate every truck.

IMHO, that would be expected. I'm buying an aftermarket part that is in no way shape or form related to the brand I'm applying it to. I would expect to have to calibrate it.

But, when I receive an RTR vehicle, I would expect just that. It's RTR out of the box.

Sure, us vets that have been running RC's for 20 years know there are things you should do. But a new person, they are going to charge lipo's (hopefully on a proper charger, lord knows they skimmed that manual) and throw them in and try to go.

For me, it was irrelevant as the first thing I did was remove the stock receiver to put in my own. So I knew I had to calibrate it.

 

[bicketybam]

They need to be calibrated to that particular controller. There’s no way they are putting batteries in the controller, calibrating, removing the batteries and then boxing everything up. Not a chance. Does any manufacturer do that?

 

[olds97_lss]

They need to be calibrated to that particular controller. There’s no way they are putting batteries in the controller, calibrating, removing the batteries and then boxing everything up. Not a chance. Does any manufacturer do that?

I don't know. I don't recall doing it with my ERBE when I bought it. That was the only other NIB truck I got other than my outcast, and I did try the OEM radio for 2 minutes in my living room before switching it over to my brand of receiver. That was my first electric. I was too excited to not throw packs in it and at least hear it spin the wheels before tearing into it for all the upgrades I bought.

 

[slick2500]

That doesn't sound right at all. Reverse should be half the speed of forward..

I hate the reverse on the BLX185 in my Outcast, I always have to mess around to get it to go into reverse, my transmitter has been calibrated and both steering and throttle end points have been set and it still

The thing that I think is extremely stupid is that the failsafe in the radio is disabled from the factory.

 

[sevin7]

I hate the reverse on the BLX185 in my Outcast, I always have to mess around to get it to go into reverse, my transmitter has been calibrated and both steering and throttle end points have been set and it still

The thing that I think is extremely stupid is that the failsafe in the radio is disabled from the factory.

I agree. I have everything calibrated correctly and I still find that getting into reverse is very finicky. What exactly does the "failsafe" that is disabled from the factory do?

 

[bicketybam]

I agree. I have everything calibrated correctly and I still find that getting into reverse is very finicky. What exactly does the "failsafe" that is disabled from the factory do?

I’m the event that the receiver loses communication with the receiver, the failsafe will activate. When you set up the failsafe, you set what the throttle and steering inputs will default to in a signal loss scenario. I have always set mine to full brake and straight steering. This will prevent a runaway scenario.

 

[sevin7]

That is disabled from the factory? That sounds insane.... How do you re-enable it?

 

[bicketybam]

That is disabled from the factory? That sounds insane.... How do you re-enable it?

It’s not disabled, it’s just not set. The default is no throttle or steering input upon signal loss. Page 25 of the manual explains the process.