Notorious Notorious Rebuild and upgrades

[JayP.]

Not really anything crazy, just a budget rebuild with some light upgrades I did on my v4 notorious/outcast. Thought I'd share .

I haven't replaced all the screws with stainless in the front just yet... Still had the stock diff that was working perfectly fine, so I didn't want to tear the entire front end apart. EXB LSD diffs in the center and rear though. Rear was super notchy, but after I ran it, it really opened it up. Feels perfect now. I also used the stock top plate for the EXB chassis brace and just drilled the hole out .. mostly because I totally forgot to get that part .

 

[ABabyEater]

Heads up that most of the stainless screw kits aren't as high quality as the grade 12.9 screws Arrma uses. The rust resistance is awesome, but if you notice one or two start breaking repeatedly it might be worth putting the stock ones back in. Otherwise it looks awesome! Really clean.

 

[JayP.]

Heads up that most of the stainless screw kits aren't as high quality as the grade 12.9 screws Arrma uses. The rust resistance is awesome, but if you notice one or two start breaking repeatedly it might be worth putting the stock ones back in. Otherwise it looks awesome! Really clean.

I constantly stripped the arrma ones out anyways, so I don't even care at this point. I need to get a tighter fitting set of drivers. I didn't use to heat them up that much which is why I think it kept happening. I didn't use as much loctite either. I'd rather have the rust resistance and just heat the crap out of them to get them out, just personal preference. And thanks! I'm planning on getting some castle electronics for it soon as well. I'm looking forward to that.

 

[JayP.]

I've added this pic to another post of mine, but thought I'd put it here. I can't believe that the rpm esc mount for the mamba monster X was basically a drop in (meant for the traxxas summit, revo and emaxx apparently). Didn't have to double sided tape the esc down or anything, it screwed right in. Had to cut a bit of the side guard off in the back to accommodate the longer canned motor and switch the clip around that holds in that metal post for the center body tower to clear the motor wires, but other than that, no issues... It's almost like it was meant to be. I also drilled out the mount for the power switch so I could use bigger m3 screws with a nut on the bottom to secure the power switch. Looks better than I could've imagined.

 

[JayP.]

4th servo in my outcast, I finally stopped buying the cheapos and decided to go with something more expensive. I've heard good things about AGFRC, and their 32kg servo seemed like a good balance of price and performance. At 6 volts, it's rated for 26kg which is a ton of torque, and I actually do believe that rating, unlike the cheap Amazon servos. First run I was extremely impressed, in the snow with trenchers on, it still turned no problem! Hope it lasts.

 

[JayP.]

4th servo in my outcast, I finally stopped buying the cheapos and decided to go with something more expensive. I've heard good things about AGFRC, and their 32kg servo seemed like a good balance of price and performance. At 6 volts, 26kg is a ton of torque, and I actually do believe that rating, unlike the cheap Amazon servos. First run I was extremely impressed, in the snow with trenchers on, it still turned no problem! Hope it lasts.

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I also added this protek fan, seems really powerful, hoping it holds up.