Notorious Notorious wont turn when giving throttle

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stevin

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Arrma RC's
  1. Notorious
So this problem started some time in the last few days but I really noticed it today when racing around with a friend. If im giving significant throttle I can turn maybe 5-10% of the trucks ability however if I hit the brakes or let off the throttle I can turn normally. I was thinking maybe my servo saver loosened up so I tightened to the max but NOTHING, same exact thing. FYI this isnt even the stock servo as I upgraded to a savox 1210. If the truck is on the bench the wheels turn to their full extent and with good speed. Im kind of lost now and don't know what else to look into. Any ideas?
 
So this problem started some time in the last few days but I really noticed it today when racing around with a friend. If im giving significant throttle I can turn maybe 5-10% of the trucks ability however if I hit the brakes or let off the throttle I can turn normally. I was thinking maybe my servo saver loosened up so I tightened to the max but NOTHING, same exact thing. FYI this isnt even the stock servo as I upgraded to a savox 1210. If the truck is on the bench the wheels turn to their full extent and with good speed. Im kind of lost now and don't know what else to look into. Any ideas?

Interesting. As a shot at the cheapest easiest fix,,,
Has the dual rate knob on the transmitter accidently been turned down ? If nothing has changed and there is no damage or binding anywhere the servo could be failing and requiring excessive power to operate under load or the BEC could be failing and not providing enough current to the servo. Make sure none of the servo wires are being pinched anywhere like between the chassis/servo mount and the servo. A resistive short could be sucking up current.
 
With the blx, and the transmitter on put the car on a block of wood so the wheels are off the ground and try to turn the wheels with your hands. They should be hard to turn and want to be straight. While doing this look for loose stuff, arm flex, servo slippage, too much play, etc which could contribute to your trouble.
 
No dual rates knob is fine. The savox servo is basically new. On each thing I would like to add isn’t that I started the process of changing out the diff fluids but so far only did the front diff which I changed to 50k. I don’t know if this could have anything to do with it. My end points are fine and have them at their max right before binding. If I pick the front of the truck up the wheels turn both directions fast and fully. It’s only when I’m on the throttle that I’m not getting full steering.
 
Stock tires? With the front wheels in the air, hold one still and try turning them. Are you running a BEC?
 
I’m running the stock tires, im running the stock set up with no BEC . I propped it in the air and with one hand I tryed steering and the other I put resistance on the wheel. I am able to hold the servo from turning it but it buzzes like crazy and wants to push threw me holding it back

Here’s a few videos, hopefully someone can point out something that will help. The play shown in the video and the way the front wheels wobble just doesn’t seam right to me
 

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Put the truck on the ground, push down the front end with your hand to simulate load (an inch or so), in this scenario the wheels turn ok?
 
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No dual rates knob is fine. The savox servo is basically new. On each thing I would like to add isn’t that I started the process of changing out the diff fluids but so far only did the front diff which I changed to 50k. I don’t know if this could have anything to do with it. My end points are fine and have them at their max right before binding. If I pick the front of the truck up the wheels turn both directions fast and fully. It’s only when I’m on the throttle that I’m not getting full steering.
I kept creeping up on my front diff fluid weight to end up at 60k front 500k center and 30k rear noticing that every time I increased the front diff weight, my turning radius went up noticeably after the increase.
As an experiment, I dropped back to 30/500/10 and the turning radius improved to near stock.
I don't necessarily think that's what's going on here but it is a factor worth mentioning
 
I took videos and selecting them as files to add into the post. Obviously that’s not the right way. How do I post the videos?
As for the left shock it must just be a strange angle because it is fine.
 
i know exactly what you're talking about and feel your pain. the car won't turn properly at speed. the tyres are huge and require more torque. you have 2 options.
1) learn to control your turns by slowing down or power sliding, or;
2) mod your car further

others may disagree with me, but i personally believe the 1210sg is not strong enough for the outcast unless you give it 7.4v via an external BEC.
stock servo = 15kg/cm (don't expect much from this servo as it has brass gears, let alone enough torque)
1210sg @ 6v = 20kg/cm (not enough torque by my testing)
1210sg @ 7.4v via an external BEC = 32kg/cm (enough torque by my testing)

i am using a 1210sg @ 7.4v via an external BEC and it works, but in hindsight i would not bother going that route. it was a real pain in the ass to set up. it requires soldering, an external BEC, a new 7.4 capable RX and TX or alternatively a RX bypass. adds more "stuff" the the car when it's already super tight on space. the other thing is it can void your warranty unless you make it all modular.

the easier option i wish i knew about earlier is to just buy a servo that is powerful enough at 6v.
SA1283SG @ 6v = 30kg/cm
it's not waterproof but all savox are splashproof. good enough unless you plan on going swimming. or if you do plan on taking it swimming you could waterproof it yourself. it would still be far less work than the external BEC route.
 
I noticed much reduced turning circle at speed after changing my diff fluids also. I can't remember exact weights but the rear was relatively light 10 or 20k and front was 50 or 60k.

The new tuning did offer better stability and traction at speed and in the air than standard mind. I will be bringing the front diff weight down next time I rebuild it.
 
Is it the servo mount flexing? Does the receiver have any stability control built in? For Traxxas the tsm function being on made my mxl 6s barely turn the servos until I got off the gas, then they’d operate normally. But get back on and they’d barely turn. Turn tsm off and boom back to normal.
 
Great thread and i feel your pain.

There are so many potential reasons for this, its crazy. I find its especially noticeable when switching between models.

On my Outcast i have increased the centre diff fluid thickness, this helped but only on loose terrain.

My servo saver has been noted to come loose, but I've checked this several times. I have upgraded my servo, but its still only a 20kg servo.

I have noted that when i jump, that the wheels turn on their own. This flex i put down to the steering rack, servo saver and servo mount.

My next step is to replace the servo saver, steering rack and upgrade to an aluminium servo mount.
 
No dual rates knob is fine. The savox servo is basically new. On each thing I would like to add isn’t that I started the process of changing out the diff fluids but so far only did the front diff which I changed to 50k. I don’t know if this could have anything to do with it. My end points are fine and have them at their max right before binding. If I pick the front of the truck up the wheels turn both directions fast and fully. It’s only when I’m on the throttle that I’m not getting full steering.
I know this thread is old, but this very thing just started acting funny. Under throttle the Outcast will not turn left. It straightens the front wheels each time I try to turn left under throttle. This started happening after running the car for 15-20 mins or so. Brand New SPMS652-first time running the new Servo. The Servo was warrantied because it stopped turning out of the blue while running it in an open field. I'm wondering if I have another issue. ESC? I can't stand fixing a car only for it to fail again.
 
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