Outcast Now I understand why everyone suggests checking diffs, etc. on new Arrma's.

[Custnam]

Well after the recent installs and upgrades I did to my new Outcast 4s I finally got out and drove it a bit. I immediately noticed something just wasn't right. It was driving weird. I wasn't sure what it was but it felt diff related. Anyway after doing a pretty cool unintentional cart wheel I snapped a turn buckle in half. So that was that for my Outcast. Since its out of commission I decided to take a look at the diffs, and now I understand why its recommended to check these asap. First thing that happened was one of the screws that holds the drive shaft to the diff was SUPER THREAD LOCKED. So much so that after turning a little the screw head stripped. So to be able to get the drive shaft out I had to use a Dremel and cut all the plastic off around the screw so I could hold it with pliers. I finally got it out, but of course that drive shaft yolk is shot. See attached pic. Well after having so much trouble with that one I expected the same from the other side. It was the total complete opposite. It was literally finger loose. After getting the screw out there was no thread lock at all on that side.

Anyway once I got the diffs out I cracked them open and they were less than half full. Maybe a 1/4 full if that? Which also leads to a question. I am planning on using some 10k to refill them once I get the parts I need as well as the Jims bearing kit I ordered. I know on the 6s you almost completely fill them. For the 4s diffs is it the same? The 6s manual shows it being filled like 1mm less than full. So what is the correct level for the 4s diffs?

Anyway I have all the parts I need ordered as well as a Horizon parts request I sent in. While the Outcast was running it was a blast. So fast. So looking forward to getting it dialed in the same way my Notorious is. Thanks for the help.

 

[crimsonfancy]

I filled my 3s diff with new pretty much 1mm less than full and all good just like you mention for the 6s. I broke my case / shock tower and decided to look at diffs at that time as well. I also used white lithium outside of the diff but now I'm using a high pressure, high temp, all purpose grease from WD-40.

What's nice to read is that you have a positive attitude ...while some people get pissed off and start bad-mouthing when things aren't perfect out of the box.... RTR isn't gonna be perfect and you know it and take it in stride. Tough break on the threadlock and glad you got it handled. Hope you can get back to running strong soon. ??

 

[Armarookie43]

Well after the recent installs and upgrades I did to my new Outcast 4s I finally got out and drove it a bit. I immediately noticed something just wasn't right. It was driving weird. I wasn't sure what it was but it felt diff related. Anyway after doing a pretty cool unintentional cart wheel I snapped a turn buckle in half. So that was that for my Outcast. Since its out of commission I decided to take a look at the diffs, and now I understand why its recommended to check these asap. First thing that happened was one of the screws that holds the drive shaft to the diff was SUPER THREAD LOCKED. So much so that after turning a little the screw head stripped. So to be able to get the drive shaft out I had to use a Dremel and cut all the plastic off around the screw so I could hold it with pliers. I finally got it out, but of course that drive shaft yolk is shot. See attached pic. Well after having so much trouble with that one I expected the same from the other side. It was the total complete opposite. It was literally finger loose. After getting the screw out there was no thread lock at all on that side.

Anyway once I got the diffs out I cracked them open and they were less than half full. Maybe a 1/4 full if that? Which also leads to a question. I am planning on using some 10k to refill them once I get the parts I need as well as the Jims bearing kit I ordered. I know on the 6s you almost completely fill them. For the 4s diffs is it the same? The 6s manual shows it being filled like 1mm less than full. So what is the correct level for the 4s diffs?

Anyway I have all the parts I need ordered as well as a Horizon parts request I sent in. While the Outcast was running it was a blast. So fast. So looking forward to getting it dialed in the same way my Notorious is. Thanks for the help.

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What I have learned about thread lock is that it has to be heated and then it will come off much easier. Do that next time. I use a lighter only for like few seconds. Before that, I messed up my tools, stripped hexes and was tired from putting all my strength to get those things loose. Heat is your friend.

 

[jym73]

Now I understand why everyone suggests checking diffs, etc. on new Arrma's.

It isn't only for Arrma, but almost all RTR = Ready To Reassemble.

On almost all of the cars i have, i mainly check the diff. for the mesh, sometime it is good, sometime it is too loose, and i don't like too loose mesh = faster wear out or even breakages.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Never had any issues about those driveshafts screws. You could warranty them trought horizon because its not something normal what just happened.

What I have learned about thread lock is that it has to be heated and then it will come off much easier. Do that next time. I use a lighter only for like few seconds. Before that, I messed up my tools, stripped hexes and was tired from putting all my strength to get those things loose. Heat is your friend.

The driveshaft screw is almost impossibke to get to you need a long screwdriver to go trought the driveshaft and unscrew it

 

[Armarookie43]

Never had any issues about those driveshafts screws. You could warranty them trought horizon because its not something normal what just happened.

The driveshaft screw is almost impossibke to get to you need a long screwdriver to go trought the driveshaft and unscrew it

I had no problem getting to it wthi my long hex driver. That was for my granite BLX 4x4 brushless though. Is it the same thing? It looks the same to me from the pics.

It isn't only for Arrma, but almost all RTR = Ready To Reassemble.

On almost all of the cars i have, i mainly check the diff. for the mesh, sometime it is good, sometime it is too loose, and i don't like too loose mesh = faster wear out or even breakages.

I didn't check the end points before running my new Typhon 6s for the first time and that totally screwed up my servo on the very first run.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I had no problem getting to it wthi my long hex driver. That was for my granite BLX 4x4 brushless though. Is it the same thing? It looks the same to me from the pics.

I didn't check the end points before running my new Typhon 6s for the first time and that totally screwed up my servo on the very first run.

Thats what im saying you cant rly put any heat on that screw
Just no room for it

 

[slick2500]

I've purchased 3 different diffs over the past year from Jennys RC and all 3 of them literally had a tab of fluid in them.
I am a firm believer that rtr does not mean ready to run, it means ready to rebuild. I do not trust the 6 year old Chinese kids that put these things together.

 

[Custnam]

What I have learned about thread lock is that it has to be heated and then it will come off much easier. Do that next time. I use a lighter only for like few seconds. Before that, I messed up my tools, stripped hexes and was tired from putting all my strength to get those things loose. Heat is your friend.

Thanks this is the first thing I thought of. But how do you heat up thread lock that is surrounded by plastic without melting it?

Never had any issues about those driveshafts screws. You could warranty them trought horizon because its not something normal what just happened.

The driveshaft screw is almost impossibke to get to you need a long screwdriver to go trought the driveshaft and unscrew it

I was able to get to them by extending my driver a it to reach. So reaching it wasnt the issue. It was just way too tight. I did warranty all the parts that got messed up during this and HH approved all of them!

Thats what im saying you cant rly put any heat on that screw
Just no room for it

Thats the exact issue I had. I could have use my heat gun but that would have melted all the plastic around it. So I just cut the piece off. Either way it would have been ruined.
No biggie on my Outcast 4s being out of commission for a bit. It just gives me more excuse to break out his big brother. NOTORIOUS!!

 

[Custnam]

Is this what an Outcast 4s is suppose to look like the day after the first run? Kidding of course. But its kind of depressing and cool at the same time. Depressing that I cant run it, cool because I LOVE WORKING ON THEM!!!!