Outcast O8s diff questions

[Mirkdiggler]

Good evening my bro’s.

I’m building a O8s exb. It will have a Xlx2 and 1100 kv castle. Hearing lots of diff issues with this setup. I have my eyes on the Vivaton v2 diff cases.

Which diff tends to go first ? Center or all of them.

Thanks brothers…

 

[Hammer Down]

Mines always the rear. I haven’t tried the vitavon cups yet tho, only the metal Arrma ones.

 

[Mirkdiggler]

Mines always the rear. I haven’t tried the vitavon cups yet tho, only the metal Arrma ones.

Thank you kind Sir

 

[RCbuzz]

@Hammer Down do you mind sharing what parts of the diff failed? Thanks!

 

[Hammer Down]

@Hammer Down do you mind sharing what parts of the diff failed? Thanks!

The metal cups it’s typically the screws that shear off.
And the plastic cups crack into pieces.

 

[RCbuzz]

Oh wow!! The carnage!! I have not had this happen yet..

Thank you for sharing.

 

[Mirkdiggler]

The metal cups it’s typically the screws that shear off.
And the plastic cups crack into pieces.

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What the !!!

Do you have a castle Xlx2 and a big can motor ?

 

[SrC]

^^^ Oh it will. Bet on it.
Some say the Vitavons are keyed so the screws can't shear off. I am not 100% sure on this. Someone else may confirm this.
Just run your O8s as is. Learn it well. You will soon discover the weaknesses. Then pick and choose your battles one at a time. Some upgrade parts work better for some than others. We all drive differently.
Just to slam your new rig with all the $$alloy$$ possible, only because the next guy did gets costly.
And the O8s is rather heavy. At aprox. 30 pounds. The main issue with the 1/5 line IMHO. Easy with adding extra weight. Only as needed. Not just because...you can. I would focus on replacing the stocker servo with a true 1/5 scale servo. The RTR one is only a 1/6 servo. It is lame as many state. Focus on making the rig more driveable and handling better at first. Consider droop screws and sway bars perhaps. Focus on the wheel alignment etc. Out the box this needs attention. Also make sure your diff oils are not low. Factory underfills them. Make sure your gear mesh is tight and correct. That your Tires are Glued well with CA. Many times they are not. Tug in the tire beads and add CA where needed. Or you will eat these expensive tires faster.
Good luck.

 

[Mirkdiggler]

^^^ Oh it will. Bet on it.
Some say the Vitavons are keyed so the screws can't shear off. I am not 100% sure on this. Someone else may confirm this.
Just run your O8s as is. Learn it well. You will soon discover the weaknesses. Then pick and choose your battles one at a time. Some upgrade parts work better for some than others. We all drive differently.
Just to slam your new rig with all the $$alloy$$ possible, only because the next guy did gets costly.
And the O8s is rather heavy. At aprox. 30 pounds. The main issue with the 1/5 line IMHO. Easy with adding extra weight. Only as needed. Not just because...you can. I would focus on replacing the stocker servo with a true 1/5 scale servo. The RTR one is only a 1/6 servo. It is lame as many state. Focus on making the rig more driveable and handling better at first. Consider droop screws and sway bars perhaps. Focus on the wheel alignment etc. Out the box this needs attention. Also make sure your diff oils are not low. Factory underfills them. Make sure your gear mesh is tight and correct. That your Tires are Glued well with CA. Many times they are not. Tug in the tire beads and add CA where needed. Or you will eat these expensive tires faster.
Good luck.

I hear you bro. I’m not at peace unless I’m fixing or planning out upgrades.

I like minimal downtime when something is broken too !! Lol. The hobby is fun and can be addictive. My wife definitely keeps me in check…

Based off of what I’m reading, I’m sure I will blow a diff/s with this set up. I definitely hear you though.

 

[Hammer Down]

Do you have a lab Xlx2 and a big can motor ?

Yes sir, XLX2 with an 800kv 2028