Typhon Old Yeller (typhon hybrid)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Velodromed

Snatching defeat from the jaws of victory!
Premium Member
Excellence Award
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
7,755
Reaction score
13,914
Location
San Antonio, TX
Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Granite
  3. Kraton 6s
  4. Kraton 4s
  5. Notorious
  6. Outcast 4s
  7. Vorteks
  8. Voltage
  9. Infraction 4x4
I kinda figured out how I broke my typhon chassis finally. Ran across it looking at video clips. On closer inspection I don’t think it’ll buff out. Cracked the proline 17mm hex at that back tire as well. Yep my bad.

0C98C0ED-E3C8-4743-905B-F92CCBDB600D.jpeg

So it’s time to rebuild the typhon. Well…I don’t really like the typhon that much. It’s my least driven car. But I LOVE my wife’s big rock. So I’m thinking it’s time for a change.
Out with the old and in with the new chassis. Now let’s see what I got here…

97BB03E9-8F6C-4FA0-A24D-8B6C9FA4747D.jpeg


B248942F-D6E4-4F47-9F17-F96ADE903622.jpeg


F1C83ED2-BE6C-4357-B576-5C5DBF562F32.jpeg
 
Last edited:
My box of parts is healthy and I’ve got a few new things lying around. The typhon itself only has a dozen runs so it’s near new as well.

New Hot Racing yoke for the rear. I’ll get one for the front later on.
New s652 servo (Jenny’s)
dx3 and receiver (Jenny’s)
Fuze 3660, 2800kv 6 pole motor. I tried this on my vorteks for one pack and didn’t like it. Later I realized I’d put to big a pinion on it. 18t was too much. So I’ve ordered a 15t and will try again. If I still don’t like it I have a 3200kv spectrum that I’d just replace the bearings (Jim’s motor bearings) and cleaned I can use.

And I got these hot racing 17mm plus 10mm hex hub extender things…but. Huh.🤔

8AEBD36F-9D90-4883-85F3-6DF4F3B7E3A1.jpeg

Okay. Hot Racing 17mm +10mm extension things. I’d gotten these a couple weeks back thinking I’d widen the typhon a bit. Well, go figure they don’t work with the 17 mm hex hubs already on. Duh 🙄. But I want to use them, and I have a new set of new Big Rock drive shafts. SoI just swapped out the wheel hub side. Why not.

Let me digress. I got a new grease to try. Cycling buddy uses it. It’s ceramic grease, formulated for plastic on plastic and fine for metal. Not sure if I’ll notice any difference but it’s fun trying out new stuff.

I started using less grease on the diff ring/input gears over a month back and it definitely makes a difference with how gunky they get in the yoke. This grease is supposed to be used sparingly anyway, so just a couple of pea-sized globs worked into the ring and input. Perfect.

Oh, I opened both differentials before I installed them and put roughly 50 in the front and 25 in the back. I can always change it if I don’t like it.

I had received a motor mount and spur case as part of the warranty deal 5-6 months ago and just threw it in my parts box when it came in. Today when I looked at it I realized they had sent me the new thicker motor mount! I didn’t realize I had this otherwise I would’ve already looked it over already. So I decided that I will go ahead and use it. It’s definitely heavier than the old one. Here’s a couple of pictures showing the difference. There’s also a slot on the inside of the new mount at the pinion hole.

I put a bearing inner race sleeve on for reinforcement on the back of the spur gear. I love this idea. Got them on all four of my 3 s cars now.

32F147EC-FF33-4186-9FF3-DD0EB46FDBE4.jpeg


3481D9A0-81C2-46AE-8605-CA8928AC08E6.jpeg


D168DA60-C24B-41B8-8DAF-4110EF7D839E.jpeg


D185373F-55D7-4F11-8ABD-62B03289C2C0.jpeg


0DB5E1D1-63A3-44C4-B5F2-555431405A27.jpeg


2765E081-9403-4834-8CBC-E94814330CAB.jpeg


E8882560-8D60-4AB7-9E8C-2A16714230B7.jpeg


6B65AFCE-DFFC-4FD2-AE2B-4C38B4140A17.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Got the new receiver, bound and everything hooked up and working. It’s cool looking, the one from the Infraction I think but I forgot to take a picture. First thing I turned off the AVC. Next was the servo, I centered it well, installed the module thing and connected the steering. I spent awhile getting endpoints perfect as could at this point.

DE1D745C-113A-45BC-B05F-358742C8B8FF.jpeg


8905F772-7A7B-4562-8D61-D41E1DBADB51.jpeg

So far so good. Nite!
 

Attachments

  • E5A6B32D-E8A6-4C38-89F6-3B4E7D1DED9B.jpeg
    E5A6B32D-E8A6-4C38-89F6-3B4E7D1DED9B.jpeg
    403.4 KB · Views: 41
Nice Work! What does the bearing inner race sleeve do you for you?
 
Nice Work! What does the bearing inner race sleeve do you for you?
Thanks man. It keeps that part of the hub from cracking. I’ve had several spur hubs crack where they connect to the rear differential. There’s a lot of stress going on there with a direct metal on metal connection and this helps stop that by reinforcing the hub. I’ve never had issues with the front part of the hub cracking where it connects to the plastic driveshaft. More flex helps ease the shock perhaps.
May just be me but didn't seem like that hard of a hit.
Nope, didn’t seem hard at all which is why I didn’t bother checking for any damage at the time. But a couple weeks later I saw the break and have been wondering how it happened since. Now I know.
 
Did I mention RPM arms? I love them so much on my granite I’d gotten a set for my wife’s big rock. But I’d rather put them on this thing. Cause I’m going to beat the crap out of it.
 
Done until the Robinson racing pinion gets in next Friday. Or maybe I’ll just throw a stock motor in for a bit. I like the extra 20mm width from the 17mm hot racing hex. I’ll try both the belted and mt MX28s.

Meanwhile…finding a new shell. I could get a clear stock big rock body and paint it but I want to see what else would work. So it’s research time. Something like the 4s Kraton except not the 4s Kraton. Or a 1/10 version similar to whatever Duberdash’s ‘Orange Darling’ is.

41854A4E-89C3-45B8-B5B2-75A02E681810.jpeg


1E7E8EF4-15D4-4D4F-8DAD-27206FEFEDFC.jpeg
 
I ran it with the thinner, belted MX28s and I like how it drives! Was rather nervous having put in 50wt front and 25wt back in the diffs…but it handles very well. The extra 20mm width is very nice as well, very stable.

I threw on the MT MX28s after I got home and am really looking forward to testing tomorrow.

EBF07E84-6E03-4261-910A-6197A0821CAA.jpeg


19C5A34F-F87D-4798-B686-0C604992DCC9.jpeg

Also finished fitting the TBone wheelie bar. I had a lot of issues with the bearings on T-bone wheelie bars falling apart. I complained to them awhile back so they sent me a new set of wheels. I put a silicon cap on them… I’ve done this with other tbone wheels and it helps stop the bearings from falling apart. I used my favorite little 5 mm plastic spacers to mount the wheelie bar underneath the wing. It’s nice, compact and solid, much better than the stock wheelie bar.
 

Attachments

  • 49844886-D828-49DE-AEC1-939E56DBB822.jpeg
    49844886-D828-49DE-AEC1-939E56DBB822.jpeg
    215.4 KB · Views: 42
  • A6ED721A-78CD-48CD-AB4F-67F458FD44D3.jpeg
    A6ED721A-78CD-48CD-AB4F-67F458FD44D3.jpeg
    229.3 KB · Views: 52
  • 214067F4-1407-4E6F-BE1B-D67A597D6443.jpeg
    214067F4-1407-4E6F-BE1B-D67A597D6443.jpeg
    289.1 KB · Views: 42
  • 9FE720CF-10AE-412E-8384-489FA122C9C1.jpeg
    9FE720CF-10AE-412E-8384-489FA122C9C1.jpeg
    228 KB · Views: 50
Last edited:
My wife was able to go to the park with me and drove her big rock for the first time since October. I did not realize how much I missed driving the cars with her. She’s finally feeling better and our lives are starting to normalize again somewhat 😊

I love the MT MX28s! But the stock motor I’d cleaned and replaced bearings on is…lacking. The motor was old and thrashed when I worked on it so perhaps it’s ‘done’. Cogs pretty bad and has low power. So after getting home I swapped it out with a relatively new stock motor to test tomorrow.

On all my cars I’m switching the 5mm spacers on the bottom mount of the 6s shocks to 3mm. Instead of a single plastic spacer I’m using 3 washers. I’ve bent several 12.9 steel mount screws over the last few months and actually broke one yesterday. It broke off inside the new rpm mount so I switched to the outside holes. 3mm just clears the springs from the driveshafts and hopefully the screws wont bend/break.

Once I have the funds I decided to go with a stock big rock body. Thinking I’ll try candy apple red backed by orange and silver? Also looking at a 130amp esc and 3074, 2250kv rocket motor. But not yet. Kinda broke right now.

E3B596E3-F0C3-491A-A9B5-6D5CB3F15328.jpeg
 
With a relatively new stock 3s motor it hauls. So I did not do a good job rebuilding that other motor…🤣 I tried though. Learned a lot, including the Bread trick.

Think I’m going to swap the 3670 motor from my granite with this one. That’ll lighten up the granite a touch and give this one the power I want it to have.
 
New motor for the typhon hybrid on its way. Working on getting a 130amp ESC to go with it.

EF92D65C-2FC1-4852-A84D-F51DA3A07457.png
 
Serviced the 6s shocks and put 60wt front and back. I’ve always run the 6s shocks with whatever fluid they came with because I really didn’t know the difference. Now I am finding that I do so it’s time to start tuning things a little bit better.
 
Took it for a good drive today and I love it! It’s very well balanced. Switching the front mojave shocks to the outside rpm arm mounts ended up being a good idea. The Mojave shocks are a bit longer then stock typhon shocks so this helped bring the front down to ‘normal’.

The new 3674 motor will a bit heavier so will see if it throws the balance off. I’m going to start with a 16t pinion. I’m put 18t pinions in the granite and vorteks (2670 motors) and it’s a bit much. I know I’m also flirting with pushing the stock diffs and driveshafts. Already stripped one on the granite and popped the other on the vorteks. Need to loosen the slipper a bit I think but if it slips to much it’ll glaze and slip more. Aluminum HR pads maybe? Those can slip consistently without glazing I believe. I don’t know. Kinda like this figuring out part of things.
 
The new motor came in. 3674, 2500kv. I know now that 2500kv is a bit low on KV for 3s…but we will see. Maybe it’ll be great lol.
I put on the 18t pinion I had taken off my vorteks as well. As I always do with motors I covered up the extra mounting screw holes, put an o-ring and washer beneath pinion and a couple o-rings around the end of the can. I also reinforced the rear of the spur hub with a bearing race. Since I started doing this I haven’t cracked anymore spur hubs.

Interesting…the hole for the pinion is smaller on the new Arma motor mount. I had to remove the motor mount from the spurcase to put the pinion on. Also, now I understand what that little slot is for, it’s to tighten the grub screw. The new motor mount sure is beefy though. Can’t see bending it but I will definitely try my best 🙃

E834EFBC-BD27-4909-BC77-38133F4E0401.jpeg


3E83DD79-C314-462E-A0E0-DFDCADDC31F4.jpeg


805F4B6F-BF70-4592-BE42-9B69BACBD6DE.jpeg


3FD76C47-968A-4D33-9452-C295690CBC33.jpeg


F57D2F97-C7E9-4052-9E3C-5CA0A6FF686C.jpeg


68DEC0EB-DACB-40B7-95E4-3E47AAE2F2F0.jpeg
 
The new motor works very well. I may have lost some top end but it’s perfect otherwise. I’m sure I could regain the top end with a 20t pinion but I’m good as it is for now.

Over at our neighborhood lake park there is a particular rock jump that I like. It’s a bit hard on the cars and I stack it most attempts…but when I hit it just right it really launches the vehicle. I was jumping it with the vorteks hybrid Monday. Took the typhon yesterday and it flies even better.

 
With that motor hopefully you can run a 20T pinion without any heat issues. Just keep an eye on the temps.
It was 82 out and barely got warm with the 18t 🙂 I just scored a 130amp off Jenny’s, The same one that I’ve been running in my granite and vorteks that I love so much. Can’t wait to put that in!
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top