Typhon On my second chassis...

[dopa0282]

Hi folks RC newbie here...

I only run my Typhon on an off-road buggy track which is jumpy, bumpy, dusty, hard and normally very hot (30-35 Ambient). Chassis slap on jumps is so bad that the rear end chamfered to a knife edge and the screw heads holding the rear diff case got sanded away...

I am now on my second chassis and have ordered some RPM rear skid plates which will help but perhaps mask the underlying problems.

Most of the EP guys at the track are running Sworkz, HB or Tekno and shock oil between 400-550 seems to be the norm. From the manuals the stock options for the Typhon are 800/600 and the DEX 8 450/400 (big difference for similar platforms). I have been experimenting with various oils but currently running 550/500, stock springs, 2 x 2s long hardcase LIPO and various ride heights. Generally I do not see other buggy's bottoming out as much as the Typhon.

Is this buggy to heavy or is there more experimentation to be done with oil/spring combo?

 

[Jerry-rigged]

generally, RTR's do weight more than their racing spec counterparts.

Stiffer springs is probably where I would go next from your description. See if you can find a Mugen guy and talk set up with him - this is what I do. Our Arrma's very similar to the Mugen chassis.

 

[faillite]

I have also been struggling with a bottoming Typhon. After testing different springs(some pretty stiff too) and oils I realized that there must be something wrong with the shocks themselves. Our local rc shop owner, a very experienced guy and long term factory test driver(not hobbico brands), told me it is the tolerance between pistons and shock bodies. He told me how DEX 8 with 450/400 oils, 80/62 kgf springs and 8x1.2 pistons can be dropped from 70cm height without any bottoming.

I listened to his advice to replace stock pistons with Kyosho pistons 8x1.2. 450/400 oils are still too fluid, I have now 600/500 and 85/62 HB springs. The chassis works well enough for my driving skills, takes bigger jumps quite well now. The car bottoms less compared with shock set up written in the manual, equipped with springs over 100 kgf on the front/back. The front still has a tendency to touch the ground but oil flow between the shock body and piston cannot be properly compensated by making the front suspension stiffer.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Humm... Sounds like a good excuse to pony up for the Tekno shocks talked about in another thread...

I think it would be about $100. I may do it.

https://www.dollarhobbyz.com/search?q=ET48 shocks&idx=shopify_products&p=0&is_v=0

So about $85 for the shocks. Plus the stand-offs -
https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekno-rc-shock-standoff-set-2-tkr8027/p584728
$30 for two sets.

So $110+ shipping.

 

[dopa0282]

Thanks for the responses, unfortunately no EP Mugen guys in our area and very few GPs. The GP folks outnumber EPs by about 7:1 at our local track.

Fully loaded my Typhon weighs 3.85kg and I get chassis slap when dropped from 20-25cm with 550/500 and stock springs. I feel the need for some controlled experiments here so when time permits I think I will play around with various ride height, oil and shock combos with fixed height drops.

Most set-up guides discuss oil/shock combos it terms of track handling (traction/roll/etc). For those of us without enough experience to evaluate by "performance" on the track it's unfortunate there is no translation to criteria which can be easily evaluated off the track on a set-up board.

Will definitely look into the Tekno shocks but the further away you get from the US the more expensive parts become. After spending $$$$ you start to realize that the best buggy to own is the one which has local parts availability.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

After spending $$$$ you start to realize that the best buggy to own is the one which has local parts availability.

Yeah, this. And 2nd to that (maybe equal) is a buggy that others run so you can talk/copy setup with them. This is one of the big reasons I find myself considering getting a Tekno buggy. Back in '96-2000, I was racing 2wd stock buggy and ST. I remember being pretty good at tweeking the setup for different tracks, but now, I watch my Typhon run around, and I can't even figure out where to start with the tuning. I know most all the general tuning rules by heart, but I guess my eyes don't see it anymore or my driving is still too rusty, or something. Or maybe it is just the bigger, more powerful heavier 1/8 ebug just does not notice changes till they are very close to right? IDK. The only change I seem to feel is tires... LOL