Typhon OrangeDRAGON's TYPHON

[OrangeDRAGON]

Just added my 3rd ARRMA to the garage, a new Typhon. Took for a slow & easy warm up spin on pavement, already impressed! I'm running on 4S (or 2S+2S) as well as 6S and my bashing is primarily 40/40/20 (pavement & jumps / gravel or bark / hard-pack dirt)

Modifications:

• 1M cSt Center, 500K cSt Rear, 100K cSt Front Diff Oil
• 16T Pinion Gear
• Fast Eddy Sealed Bearings
• Losi 60wt/844cSt Rear & 70wt/970cSt Front Shock Oil
• Fully Shimmed (Bulletproof build) Differentials
• CC Blower (Motor Cooling Fan)
• Racers Edge Glitch Buster Power Capacitor
• Front Springs: TD330815 Team Durango 75mm 80gf/mm (or 4.48 lb/in)
• Rear Springs: TD330786 Team Durango 84mm 72gf/mm (or 4.03 lb/in)
• Front 2.6mm Roll Bar
• Rear 2.9mm Roll Bar
• GKA Aluminum Servo Mount
• GKA Aluminum Chassis Braces
• SRC Terrain Crushers

Most recent photo:

 

[OrangeDRAGON]

Couple questions (and they might just stem from this being my first ~1/8 scale R/C)

1. The bottom chassis plate I noticed had some oil on it, it was relatively evenly spread across it so I assumed it was from manufacturing. There is NO oil stains inside the box. But the voice in my head is asking did one of the diffs leak dry... thoughts?
2. The drivetrain seems pretty noisy, especially at lower speeds or if I push the rig by hand. I've check the pinion gear, gear mesh, and went over the rest of the driveline everything looks good, no binding, just want a second opinion..

Thanks!

 

[Jerry-rigged]

1- I have heard of some people having leaky diffs out of the box. Getting the diffs out is easy in this line, so go ahead and pull them, change the oil, and maybe shim the diffs while you are in there.

2- I have the Kraton and Talion - they are noisy! All steel gearing with a lot of dog bones = noise.

Oh, and congrats on the new Typhon! I am wanting to add one to my collection too

 

[OrangeDRAGON]

Thank you for the reply, I'll pull the diffs and replace the oil later this week once the oil shows up. I also ordered new gaskets.

Regarding shimming them, looking at the exploded diagram I see a single shim on back of each of the spider gears, and only an O-ring on the outdrive shafts. Are you saying to shim the spiders more (as needed) to remove play, or to put shims on the outdrives to remove play?

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Here you go - this vid shows all -

Basically, the hard bashing 6s guys add shims behind the sun gears inside the diff, and one to the bearing on the gear side. They also swap the diff pins for the sun gears for hardened drill blanks.

IMHO, For 4s running and racing, I don't think the shims and harder pins are needed.

Oh, in that vid, he says these are the diffs for the Senton - all the Arrma 6s cars use the same diffs, so your Typhon diffs will be the same.

 

[OrangeDRAGON]

Here you go - this vid shows all - ...

Thank you very much, the video explained a lot. I'm not new to rebuilding diffs, but the specifics they used are good to know.

For others who read this, the video above this post explains during the rebuild to make the following changes:

Additional parts needed:

• TD310475 - Team Durango 3.5x12x0.15mm Spider Gear Shims (10pcs)
• AR709024 - ARRMA 5x18x0.3mm Planetary Gear Shims (6pcs)

-- OR --

• E0206 - Mugen Diff Shim Set (Contains both the 6pc 5x18x0.2mm for Planetary Gears and 12pc 3.5x12x0.2mm for Spider Gears)

-- AND --

• TKR1222 - Tekno RC Diff Shims 13x16x0.1mm (outer spur-side diff shims)
• (Optional) 2.20mm uncut Drill Bit shaft, cut into 9.5mm length with a dremel

Assembly steps:

• Place a 5x18 planetary shim behind each planetary gear, in front of the rubber seal but behind the planetary drive pin (2 used per differential)
• When assembling the spider gears, instead of the default configuration of [Mount-Shim-Gear-Gear-Shim-Mount] use the following configuration [Mount-Shim-Gear-Gear-Shim-Shim-Mount] - using 6 shims (two original, plus one new) per differential
• Place two to three (2-3) of the Tekno 13x16 diff shims outside the bearing on the side of the diff that has the spur gear (to shim it closer to the drive pinion gear)

 

[Jerry-rigged]

That is another shim. It is used to close the gap between the diff pinion/spur.

Per this set-up page, that shim is only needed if the gear mesh on the diff pinion/spur is too open. From the FB group, a lot of the guys that add that shim report that it makes the diff "too tight" but they figure it will wear in after a few runs. Also, most of those guys are running high power after market motors on 6s.

 

[OrangeDRAGON]

That is another shim. It is used to close the gap between the diff pinion/spur...

Thanks, I assumed as much.

The parts referenced in the image you post are for the XB8, the outer shims (that I asked about previously) as per the image you posted reference 13x16x0.1mm and 13x16x0.2mm sizes, are those sizes synonymous with ARRMA diffs, or was the image merely to illustrate the concept?

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Just for illustration. The ones I have are Tekno RC Diff Shims 13x16x.1 EB48 (10), but I have not installed any shims... This is the same size as the Xray shims. Brand should not matter, just size.

 

[OrangeDRAGON]

I rebuilt all 3 diffs yesterday, took more time cleaning out the factory oil then anything else. Had them taken apart, outside, and using horribly noxious brake cleaner

None of the diffs were 'dry' or led me to believe they had leaked. I believe the oil I found on the bottom of my factory-fresh chassis originated from factory lubrication, there is evidence they used spray oil where the drivebones slide into cups.

I will say that the diffs were all 'under filled' as new. The front and rear were about 50-60% of what I would expect, and the center diff was about 20-30% full. The stock oil poured/acted similar to something in the 25K-50K cSt range.

I didn't do a bulletproof rebuild, although the gearpack on these new diffs was already pretty tight. As I mentioned before I'll do the bulletproof build if/when I next have to rebuild any.

I put 1M cSt in the center because I don't like the front wheels sapping the power whenever the front end is up in the air, but that stuff was hard to work with. Had to set the bottle up to pour into the diff, under a desk lamp, and left it there for about 30mins LOL

The rear I also like a lot of positive traction, if nothing else because I enjoy oversteer and/or drifting, so I built it with 500K cST.

The front I used 100K cSt which seems a great compromise between positive traction and being able to turn (which requires uneven wheel speed).

The biggest disappointment was a problem with the pinion gear - detailed in this thread

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Heat it and use a torx head to get it out...

 

[OrangeDRAGON]

Installed Fast Eddy sealed bearing kit today, along with 70wt/60wt shock oil F/R...

Going to be shimming all the diffs tomorrow since I have to take them apart again to replace the bearings.

 

[OrangeDRAGON]

Finished rebuilding the diffs, again, to shim them and get the new bearings on!

Also installed a CC Blower and Servo-side Cap just for good measure

 

[WoodiE]

@OrangeDRAGON that thing is way to clean!

 

[OrangeDRAGON]

It gets dirty each run, but I can't sleep at night unless it's nice and clean

 

[phildogg]

nice looking typhon.

 

[mrbelloso]

Orange dragon, you need to get the GKA servo base to help with the steering

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Stock servo does not make enough power for it to be much of an issue. but if he upgrades, then yeah. GKA or the DIY mount from the Kraton thread.

 

[OrangeDRAGON]

The stock servo definitely twists and moves in the flimsy mount, the stock servo force/speed seems adequate for stock Typhon wheels/tires but replacing that mount is next. Will be ordering it next payday this Thursday $$$

 

[OrangeDRAGON]

I tried the Tekno (orange-rate) springs, more info in this thread