Vorteks Order in! Now The Wait…

[Kla912000]

Thanks man! I picked one up because they’re cheap and I’m curious. I showed my wife and she explained the concept behind a capacitor and what it does it and all (from a non-rc view of course).

 

[Velodromed]

@Velodromed Your wife and daughter obviously have excellent taste, so how did they end up with you? The Vortex looks great, have fun!

Aw man my wife is as interesting as me. We work very well. And the kid is an amazing fireball… I simply couldn’t ask for more. Both our second times around at 50 and it’s fun!

I don't think that will raise the voltage output of the BEC. That just stores power for when you need that first power boost. The BEC voltage is raised thru the ESC programming. Some ESCs have an adjustable BEC and some don't. Most RTR ESCs do not have an adjustable BEC, but I think on the Vorteks you can upgrade the stock Firmware and the new FW has an adjustable BEC.

Have to send the ESC back to Horizon for that, right?

I love my Vorteks and my Big Rock so you're definitely heading down the right road.

And when I bash, which is almost everyday, there's something about the way the Vorteks drives that makes me drive it the most. My Big Rock has a couple of upgrades that make it a super sweet truck but it still plays 2nd fiddle to the Vorteks

Glad your wife is beating the big C. A tough one that. Prayers with you brother.

Thanks man, we appreciate prayers. Good thoughts, prayers and well wishes… it’s all good.
ITS HERE!!

Not only is it a day early but it’s here mid day. Thank you Fed Ex! I’ve heard that they are really backlogged and sucked lately. I even have a disclaimer. Yeah it’s early. But I’m busy so it’s been sitting. But now I’m not…so I’m drooling.

I’m going to run it on the street a little bit. Not much, because it’s 98 degrees, just enough to hear it. Get that feel. Then I’ll take it apart work on it some check everything

But I’ve been sitting here looking at it for 45 minutes now, listening to Stevie Ray Vaughan and drinking Thirsty Planets new release, Bass Amp. Damn good beer!

Yeah I’m gonna go drive it Can’t believe I got one of these. All the parts for updating my mega granite to 3S are still sitting in the bin, and I’ve been enjoying upgrading our three Voltages. Now I got a Vorteks. I wasn’t even thinking about getting a Vorteks a week ago.

Love it when stuff like this happens. Yup, Been staring at it for an hour and 15 minutes now. Soooo pretty…”my precious”

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

Congratulations man. I had so much fun driving mine yesterday afternoon until I stripped the spur doing a backflip. But I have a spare and it was easy rebuilding the slipper last night (first time).

 

[Kla912000]

No, you don't have to send the ESC to Horizon to update the firmware. You just need the program card and a computer. I haven't done it to any of my ESCs but others on the forum have.

 

[Velodromed]

Congratulations man. I had so much fun driving mine yesterday afternoon until I stripped the spur doing a backflip. But I have a spare and it was easy rebuilding the slipper last night (first time).

Good grief I love it!!
Mine noticeably clicks. I need to figure out how to load up a video to YouTube because it doesn’t sound quite like the other 3s I’ve heard. I know I’ve heard a lot about them clicking. It didn’t at first, it was only after about six or seven minutes the clicking started occurring.

I ran it for 12 minutes all together. Outside temps are 95 and the ESC got up to 118-126. Motor got up to 110-115. Battery up to 96-99. These temps were pretty consistent after three minute runs as fast as I could handle in the direct sun. Which ain’t really fast cause…

Damn This thing is fast! These are not speeds that I am used to! I dialed down to 75% and then 50% just to get the feel of it. I need to get out in the open… not our skinny neighborhood streets with Rocky ditches on each side. Gonna put a 2s battery in it for My wife and daughter to drive for sure…Just solder an ec5 to one of my current 2s batts.

But I’m going take it apart. I know the shox aren’t full, diffs too I’m sure. And that dang clicking… need to check the slipper, pinion mesh etc, put a granite bumper on front till the T-bone is back in stock. Shoo goo fiber tape the body. And I know there’s more?

It’s freaking amazing though! I’m glad I didn’t start off with this. Really glad I started off with the mega granite, soon to be 3s, and then upgrading the three voltages. This is just crazy fast. Wow

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

Funny mine was a bit clicky but that stopped after a while. Since I've changed the motor the drive train seems a lot quieter. Funnily enough my mate purchased a Typhon a week ago and it is really clicky. Still clicks after several solid bashing sessions. Sounds way different to any of my Arrmas, new or so used.

 

[Velodromed]

No, you don't have to send the ESC to Horizon to update the firmware. You just need the program card and a computer. I haven't done it to any of my ESCs but others on the forum have.

Good to know man, thank you!

Funny mine was a bit clicky but that stopped after a while. Since I've changed the motor the drive train seems a lot quieter. Funnily enough my mate purchased a Typhon a week ago and it is really clicky. Still clicks after several solid bashing sessions. Sounds way different to any of my Arrmas, new or so used.

How long abouts? I have heard it’s no big deal and I have heard that it’s an issue and people fixed it. I’m just gonna take it apart and do all the routine stuff I’ve heard from everyone over the last few months. See what happens.

 

[Velodromed]

I have no idea if this is going to work right but if the YouTube video does attach, or link or whatever… is this the normal Vorteks sound? The clicking is more pronounced in person.

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

Maybe a bit tricky to tell but it didn't sound abnormal. I'd check your mesh and slipper clutch settings and if they are ok go hard!

I follow 'Thunder RC' on YouTube and his Vorteks sounds really clicky, if you check out his first video with the Vorteks you might get a better idea.

 

[Velodromed]

Maybe a bit tricky to tell but it didn't sound abnormal. I'd check your mesh and slipper clutch settings and if they are ok go hard!

I follow 'Thunder RC' on YouTube and his Vorteks sounds really clicky, if you check out his first video with the Vorteks you might get a better idea.

Thanks! I will be doing that as well.

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

Had a ton of fun with my Vorteks tonight. It's such a fun truck to drive.

 

[FlipSide]

Mine doesn't click, but I went through the truck completely before driving it. I don't know if it was clicking out of the box and I fixed it...or if I got a non-clicky one.

 

[Velodromed]

Is this mesh too tight?

 

[BulletRCs_NZ]

Looks ok from my limited experience with setting mesh. I'd just run it, keep an eye on the motor and esc temps and enjoy the ride.

 

[FlipSide]

Looks a bit tight to me. Just make sure you have a bit of play on the whole circumference of the spur gear (you need to hear/feel the little tic-tic-tic when you wiggle the spur gear, indicating there is a bit of play between the pinion and spur).

If there is a tight spot where you can't feel the play, back off the pinion a tiny bit.

 

[Kla912000]

Is this mesh too tight?

View attachment 152447

View attachment 152448

Put your thumb on the end of the slipper hub and hold it into the half of the power module just like you have in the picture. Then use your other thumb to gently move the spur gear back and forth to see if it has a very slight amount of play and makes a clicking sound. Then turn the spur a little bit and repeat and do that all the way around. You might find a tight spot. If so adjust the motor so it clicks at the tight spot. If you get a slight amount of play all and the clicking sound all the way around, then you are good. You only want a tiny tiny little bit of play. If it's too loose it will strip the spur.

 

[Velodromed]

Put your thumb on the end of the slipper hub and hold it into the half of the power module just like you have in the picture. Then use your other thumb to gently move the spur gear back and forth to see if it has a very slight amount of play and makes a clicking sound. Then turn the spur a little bit and repeat and do that all the way around. You might find a tight spot. If so adjust the motor so it clicks at the tight spot. If you get a slight amount of play all and the clicking sound all the way around, then you are good. You only want a tiny little bit of play. If it's too loose it will strip the spur.

Thank you everyone! I had totally forgotten the check all the way around…getting on that now

 

[Velodromed]

Thank you everyone! I had totally forgotten the check all the way around…getting on that now

All good

 

[Velodromed]

Okay, I didn’t actually take it apart. I just did a few things for now…
*Filled up the shocks. They were half filled as expected. I think it’s intentional. A lot of these things are air lifted and maybe pressures an issue with full shocks? I don’t know. They don’t come apart like they used to. You have to use that pistol shaped tool now. Looks like they revamped the shocks a bit and maybe they’ll even work better?

*Lock tite all the stub axles so I don’t have any wheels run away. I love the gel stuff, its so much easier than that runny blue diarrhea crap.

*Figured out how to take out the power module, which is painful with damaged hands but possible. Checked the mesh all way round (good) and put soft Velcro on like razorrc says to do (thanks bud! I think I watched 17 of your videos today).

*Check every screw I could find to make sure it was solid And the really inspected the truck in general for any issues.

*Set all my end points, stearing throttle etc. Even read the manual Good as well as watching videos.

*And then I did something that I’m going to get screamed at about. An old cycling trick I used to keep gears clean in an enclosed area that’s not lubricated. I smeared some thermal paste grease on part of the inside of the spur housing. Not on the spur! I repeat not on the spur! NOT ON THE SPUR! On the part of the housing surrounding the spur. A thin layer. I did this on my voltage and when it was eating up the spur gear the paste successfully trapped all the crap, keeping it away from the motor and out of the gear.

See, I did not pull the pinion gear off. My fingers were screaming when I tried to get the C clamp off so it will have to wait. I think it will work. I have extra parts if I somehow break something. I’ll pull it apart after I run it a few times just to see. Maybe then I can get the pinion off and do the motor fix as suggested by everyone.

I didn’t mess with the differentials either. I have two new differentials I just got from Jenny’s that I’ll pull apart and learn how to work them when my hands are good. Then I’ll install those once I’ve figured out how not to screw them up.

Now to drive it again as I need to desensitize myself from this kind of speed…but I got to go somewhere open and easy. There’s too much to hit in front of my house. It’s hot also Thank you everyone for your advice! I’ll be needing more…

 

[Velodromed]

Okay, I didn’t actually take it apart. I just did a few things for now…
*Filled up the shocks. They were half filled as expected. I think it’s intentional. A lot of these things are air lifted and maybe pressures an issue with full shocks? I don’t know. They don’t come apart like they used to. You have to use that pistol shaped tool now. Looks like they revamped the shocks a bit and maybe they’ll even work better?

*Lock tite all the stub axles so I don’t have any wheels run away. I love the gel stuff, its so much easier than that runny blue diarrhea crap.

*Figured out how to take out the power module, which is painful with damaged hands but possible. Checked the mesh all way round (good) and put soft Velcro on like razorrc says to do (thanks bud! I think I watched 17 of your videos today).

*Check every screw I could find to make sure it was solid And the really inspected the truck in general for any issues.

*Set all my end points, stearing throttle etc. Even read the manual Good as well as watching videos.

*And then I did something that I’m going to get screamed at about. An old cycling trick I used to keep gears clean in an enclosed area that’s not lubricated. I smeared some thermal paste grease on part of the inside of the spur housing. Not on the spur! I repeat not on the spur! NOT ON THE SPUR! On the part of the housing surrounding the spur. A thin layer. I did this on my voltage and when it was eating up the spur gear the paste successfully trapped all the crap, keeping it away from the motor and out of the gear.

See, I did not pull the pinion gear off. My fingers were screaming when I tried to get the C clamp off so it will have to wait. I think it will work. I have extra parts if I somehow break something. I’ll pull it apart after I run it a few times just to see. Maybe then I can get the pinion off and do the motor fix as suggested by everyone.

I didn’t mess with the differentials either. I have two new differentials I just got from Jenny’s that I’ll pull apart and learn how to work them when my hands are good. Then I’ll install those once I’ve figured out how not to screw them up.

Now to drive it again as I need to desensitize myself from this kind of speed…but I got to go somewhere open and easy. There’s too much to hit in front of my house. It’s hot also Thank you everyone for your advice! I’ll be needing more…

View attachment 152486

View attachment 152487

View attachment 152488

View attachment 152489

View attachment 152490

View attachment 152491

View attachment 152492

Dang…got in a pic of an overgrown tree at the only 4 plex I manage all the rest are houses.