O'Ring of the pivot balls of My Outcast 6s goes out

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It’s like a hurnia. Push it back in with a common screw driver

Tried, not working for me, it was always finding a way to "exit".
I will try with PTFE tape ... if no one denies that the only purpose of that O-Ring is just preventing un-screwing (and not working well for that)
 
Those O-rings are horrible. Drove me crazy too. I still had to put a dab of E6000 on the o rings and threads to keep the Arrma updated Hub nuts correct. M2C is the best I think. And the O-rings should have been recessed into the middle of the Hub Nut threads not at the extreme end if you ask me. The M2C's have the Delrin inserts which are better also. While your at it get yourself a set of very expensive precision machined Titanium Pillow balls and call it day. I may do that. I hate the Stock ones. They work but maybe I am not convinced of a pillowball design in general.
 
Those O-rings are horrible. Drove me crazy too. I still had to put a dab of E6000 on the o rings and threads to keep the Arrma updated Hub nuts correct. M2C is the best I think. And the O-rings should have been recessed into the middle of the Hub Nut threads not at the extreme end if you ask me. The M2C's have the Delrin inserts which are better also. While your at it get yourself a set of very expensive precision machined Titanium Pillow balls and call it day. I may do that. I hate the Stock ones. They work but maybe I am not convinced of a pillowball design in general.


I'm 99.9% sure they are called pivot balls.. Why does everyone else call them pillowballs? :unsure:
 
I'm 99.9% sure they are called pivot balls.. Why does everyone else call them pillowballs? :unsure:
Im sorry, Im new to this hobby. You may be right. I am learning so much here it is making me dizzy. Thanx for reminding me of the correct terms to use. How stupid I feel now.:eek:
 
You said you cleaned it with brake clean? That's your issue. Brake clean will expand material like that. Brake clean is a big no no to any rc really. I do on occasion use it to clean oil and grease up but only after I take the part off the vehicle and remove any bearings from it.
 
Im sorry, Im new to this hobby. You may be right. I am learning so much here it is making me dizzy. Thanx for reminding me of the correct terms to use. How stupid I feel now.:eek:


don't be daft, I wasnt singling you out.. everyone was calling them that but when I looked in the parts list they were called pivot balls so I couldnt understand it.
I'm the newb here, It appears they can be called BOTH.. after all. ?
 
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You said you cleaned it with brake clean? That's your issue. Brake clean will expand material like that. Brake clean is a big no no to any rc really. I do on occasion use it to clean oil and grease up but only after I take the part off the vehicle and remove any bearings from it.
NEVER ever use brake cleaner or solvents even near O-rings.

Just to clarify:
I used brake cleaner in "last chance try" I had the problem just by tightening them after they came "very" loose after a run.
 
All the Tef. Tape did for my P. ball hub nuts was make them cross thread easier. I used E6000 high up on the Hub nut threads near the O-ring. Problem solved. Once you break it free again, you have to clean the nut and all and reapply E6000. Second time around requires less I feel. It builds up inside the hub. But keeps things snug. Using too much E6000, it will end up onto the piv. balls and cups and bind things up.
 
All the Tef. Tape did for my P. ball hub nuts was make them cross thread easier. I used E6000 high up on the Hub nut threads near the O-ring. Problem solved. Once you break it free again, you have to clean the nut and all and reapply E6000. Second time around requires less I feel. It builds up inside the hub. But keeps things snug. Using too much E6000, it will end up onto the piv. balls and cups and bind things up.

Yep, don't know why anyone would use ptfe tape. Thats just crazy talk..

I now cut the ends off these and file the end smooth with a fine file.. Wrecks the hub when I screw it in but at least it doesn't crossthread..

20191130_225131.jpg


:)

Maybe... :oops:
 
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I had similar problems with mine, they refused to go in straight and cross threaded... then the O rings did the same thing as yours.... maybe you damaged the threads a little like me?

I ended up buying some HR steering blocks and pivot ball cups.. problem solved.
Hr steering blocks solved that issue for me
ok, just spent 1/2 hour on this, and well my conclusion for my first ARRMA repair is that this pivot Balls system s*cks, ... BY DESIGN :cautious: as it's unlocking by itself, then o-ring goes out, then after removing to clean it you have 33% chances to cross thread it...

If I have to buy those M2C and new streering hubs or the Hot Racing because I "cross threaded"... after a Tactic radio and metal servo ... it became less and less a "cheap" RC...

Here is how it happened: First I cleaned the o-ring with towel paper, then brake cleaner, then added water then cross threaded :rolleyes: and still no O-Ring in place..

I read this later on the M2C part description:
"The nuts are designed to allow you a very easy start to avoid cross threading. "

I'm not a fanboy of any brand, but come on Arrma... :rolleyes:

That said, what's the purpose of this O-Ring ? is it mandatory ?
thanks for all your help guy's
That’s crazy cause mine was stripped a bit but the O-Ring was always pushed down 2 threads in so I never seen that happen
 

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You need patience with Pillow ball front ends. Some have more luck than others. One can spend easily over $150. in PB upgrades alone. And I find it very hard to justify that. But if I do, I will slam every upgrade at it including 4 Titanium Pivot balls. The OE PB setup is not up to snuff. IMO. PB designs in general were designed for clean track conditions. Something we don't do with these Arrmas. They are in the rough stuff most of the time.
 
Take the o ring off, carefully peen the last three threads with a punch. Screw them in and never have a pillow ball cap come loose again. Also put a couple turns of electric tape on your Allen wrench so it doesn’t go thru the cap and never strip another hub carrier. Easy peasy, and free...
 
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