Big Rock Out of the box set up/adjustments to make to the Arrma big rock 4x4 3s

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rcmenace710

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
Just purchased a Arrma big rock 4 x 4 3s and will be running 3s battery with it and I’m wondering what adjustments or set ups need changed or adjusted from factory settings for the best performance. Mainly any shock, differential, or gearing adjustments that need to be made before running it for the first time. Not looking to take it out and have it break or the gears strip the first time.

Thanks
sorry should have looked over the forum before I made my post
 
Go through the diffs and make sure the ring and pinion gears are greased (I recommend wiping of the factory grease because it sucks) make sure your slipper is step properly and grease the shock o rings inside the shocks to prevent them leaking and make sure your radio is calibrated and servo end stops are set right.
 
Go through the diffs and make sure the ring and pinion gears are greased (I recommend wiping of the factory grease because it sucks) make sure your slipper is step properly and grease the shock o rings inside the shocks to prevent them leaking and make sure your radio is calibrated and servo end stops are set right.
Can confirm all this. I ve took apart 3 factory diffs and a factory full metal diff and the diff fluid is about 15-25% at best. Same with shocks. Id fix those before I run the car outside. Id also make sure the mesh is perfect between pinion and spur gear. Id use threadlock on the screws that hold the driveshafts to the diff and Id also threadlock the other side which is holding the axle to which you connect your tires.

Setting the steering endpoints is one of the most important things. The reason why you see people breaking their stock servos is that they don't do this, so the servo keeps pulling the servo arm against the radio box on one side and pulling the tire against the body on the other side. This way you can burn down a servo pretty quickly
 
I ran mine hard out of the box and it's been brilliant. Since then I've learned a lot and improved the car quite a bit with the following;

- check and fill the diffs
- check and fill the shocks
- servo ends points
- calibrate ESC
- set punch to suit
- check turnbuckles for toe and camber (mine where way off and it made a huge difference to handling setting this correctly)
- ride height spacers

This might help with tools and fluids;

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/3s-platform-tool-sizes-fluid-thickness-for-reference.34544/
 
@rcmenace710 everything everyone else has said. I learned the hard way the first 3 weeks and now I make sure the spur and pinion are properly aligned, every screw or bolt is as tight as it should be, and every bearing is doing its job, and now I am in the habit of pulling it apart after every 2-3 runs depending on the terrain and rechecking and reoiling, greasing etc everything again. It's actually quite enjoyable when you get into it. Although my kid thinks I'm odd for constantly being at the car removing something and looking at it before putting it back all nice and clean. Though he doesn't complain when his is nice and shiny :).

I also did the trick of drilling a space underneath the gear housing to clean out the debris and I also used a small piece of double-sided sticky tape in from of the motor to stop dirt and small rocks from getting in - this has been a literal lifesaver for the car.

Might be obvious but check the wheel nuts are tightened and also that the steering/axle parts are not loose. The shop did not set anything up for me at all.
 
Another one to add - the stock body clips are really tight and fiddly. I swapped for the smaller ones and they are much better - Arrma part # AR390165.
 
Another one to add - the stock body clips are really tight and fiddly. I swapped for the smaller ones and they are much better - Arrma part # AR390165.
What I do usually, with the top of my finger I slightly push the curly side and then I can just pull it out from the rubber. The rubber only failed me once in winter, otherwise it held up
 
That trick works nicely for removal, the smaller clips are thinner wire so also much quicker and easier to line up for fitting.
 
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