Kraton Out of the box upgrades

[Cannonkill]

So I'm looking to get the Kraton 6S V4 when they are available again, after looking through the forum for about 2 days I just wanted to clear some things up that are mentioned but get a little convoluted in the posts. I've been seeing that the diffs need shimming after a while to prevent slop in them, !. could any one post a few links to the shims that are needed for them, along with some for the outer wheel hubs. Along with this i've also read that the pins on the inner gears are also getting replaced with drill bit ones, just to make sure its a 2.2XX for the size

Second, when rebuilding the diffs i have seen that there is a consistent up in the viscosity of the fluids in the diffs, I think it would be helpful to see what ever one is running for Front/Center/Rear especial when it comes to running 4s VS 6S on them.

Third, I've also seen that the bearings aren't the best in the Kraton, any links to specific kits or just replacement ones would be greatly appreciated.

Fourth, i would also like to know how people are runnign the spring rates and oils in the shocks, I will mainly be doing smaller jumps and just running the dogs with mine.

Things that i already have are some 3.8 badlands, not belted, a savox SV-1270TG, a castle bec for the servo and 2 2S 5000Mah 20C batteries, and i can swap the radio for a spare traxxas one.

Any input would be greatly appreciated by me and maybe some others looking for set up advice

 

[jkflow]

Don't get to crazy from the get-go. Stock will work just fine.
Leave the diffs alone unless you want to change the oil. You will know if you want to after ~ 5-10 bash sessions.
Stock shims and stock pins are also fine unless you go crazy on jumping.

1st: change the radio, even before running it for the 1st time or pick a wide open space with no poles (they do act like magnets!)
2nd: Servo change but only if you change the mount. Don't do one without the other.

3.8 badlands are too much, I don't recommend using them but they work. Recommended stock of backflips
No BEC needed with stock or backflip tires, Savox will handle this on 6V .
Your batteries do not meet the minimum spec of 35C and only 2S ? You don't need any upgrade if you stay on 4S.

 

[Radian2x]

I can provide some input, I've had my Kraton for a few months now. My suggestions are not too exciting though;
1. My diffs didn't need shimming. It can from the factory with one shim, and that was fine.
2. I've rebuilt my diffs with the *same* fluid. My thinking is: if Arrma figured that different fluids should have been used, they would have done that from the factory. I'm not changing my power system, so why would I change my diff fluid? It drives great as-is.
3. None of my stock bearings have failed, but I still replaced some with FastEddy bearings as I was doing maintenance. Some of the stock bearings did feel a bit gritty.
4. I haven't changed springs and oil; stock works great for me.

I think the big takeaway is: if you drive the truck 'stock', without upping the pinion or motor, then I think the stock setup is fine. But if you use the 'speed' pinion, install a faster motor or do big jumps, you'll want to change things. So the answer to all questions could be `it depends`.

For reference, I run my Kraton with stock tires, 5000mAh 90C SMC LiPo, and have jumped up to 10ft high or so.

 

[jkflow]

My assumption here is that you are into a Kraton 6S. Please set your model and location to take out the guessing game

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Howdy and Welcome!

1/2 - v4 diffs don't need shimming, buy you may check them to make sure they are full of oil - sometimes the factory does not top them off. Ify ou plan on 6s, then put some 200k or 500k in the center diff to slow down the ballooning front tires.

3 - I like Avid bearings, but Jim's and Fast Eddies are good too. Generally, I run the stock bearings till I have a reason to tear into the truck, then swap bearings as I go. I would, however, drop the bearings in to the steering bell crank right away.

4 - V4 shocks and springs are great for 95% of folks. Run them for a while, then decided.

3.8 badlands - I have those, big heavy, loads of traction, balloon some on 4s, lots on 6s. Those batteries won't work (not enough C)

Good luck, and have fun!

 

[Cannonkill]

Got the location and model set, thanks for reminding me @jkflow. and thanks for the initial input, in regard to the batteries i have 2 of them so in series it would be 4S, but it seems from the others that have posted here i will need to get a new regular 4S lipo. I Really appreciate the input and fairly quick responses from you all. I guess ill run it stock until something breaks or i just want to do something to it lol. What are the thoughts one 4S vs 5S, i had a rc8te a while back and sold it, had a tekin rx8 and a 1900kv truggy motor in it, it was on 5s and i loved it. Don't know if that really comparable or not?

 

[Radian2x]

I would recommend going with a 6S Lipo. You'll get more runtime. If you want less punch, turn down the punch on the Esc. Otherwise, just throttle control Sometimes I just sit on my front step and putz around at 5mph, crawling up and down the sidewalk etc. It'll only go as fast as you squeeze ye ole' trigger

 

[Jerry-rigged]

I ran my Arrma 6s cars on 4s for years, didn't feel the need for 6s. Out of the box gearing, they are a bit slow on 4s, but bump the pinion 2-3 teeth, and they wake up nicely, without overheating the motor. Plus, the trucks area lot harder to break on 4s.

 

[jkflow]

I do both 4S and 6S.
Stay away from 5S as it would be a custom setting (Nimh) in the ESC.
Stock 4S is ~ 45mph and on 6S ~ 54mph (or so) but I don't run stock pinions any longer and memory is rusty, you want to go up a notch after a while.

Batteries: Match the connector, stay above 5000mAh but don't go too high on weight. Typical recommendation is 5-6000mAh and MINIMUM 35C. Plenty of threads on batteries and such.