Outcast Outcast 2nd time out pinion DEAD
- Thread starter Cater4anytink
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I hear you, I've definitely had my share of issues and frustrations with 4 Arrmas, mostly smaller stuff. Once the kinks were ironed out though, really love these rigs. For the price, still blown away with the overall value, performance, durability, and great fun these 6s beasts provide.
TwiZted SkullZ
Active Member
Had my 12t pinion slip on the arm shaft the other day while trying to film a heat test run on the motor,
with and without the Castle cooling fan.....very frustrating!
Changed to a 17t pinion ,so things should really heat up now!
with and without the Castle cooling fan.....very frustrating!
Changed to a 17t pinion ,so things should really heat up now!
My stock gear just broke today too. After LOTS of bashing. Fairly new to rc here. After reading all the comments, I'm going to get a non stock replacement. I looked at robinson racing. My question is what is the pitch for the outcast gear? Says mod1 in the specs, but when I look at robinson racing they say,48, 32 .6 mod. I'm not sure what km looking for. And should I sTay with the stock 12t or something different? Thanks
Hye
Active Member
Replaced my kraton and outcast with 12t tekno pinion. Haven't had a problem since. Kraton' s stock one broke a tooth on first 6s battery pack. Which was the second set of batteries. I also took advantage of that time to change center diff fluid. I highly recommend diff fluid change.
I recommend RR Extra Hard 16 tooth, part# 1216. Ran this gear almost since day 1 on 6s. Any mod 1, 5mm shaft would work, but RR is a fantastic gear that won't break teeth off like the stock crap.
Hye
Active Member
Do you get overheating issues for running 16t? Can you still do standing backflips?
Rich Duper the man who does the biggest and longest backflips ever!! You gotta blast some standing or rolling ones there mad fun !!
He he!
All right Camo...Lol, I promise I'll atleast try a few. Been wanting to do some chain link fence flips and other urban bash stuff. What the heck, my diffs are shimmed... Happy late Easter bro.Rich Duper the man who does the biggest and longest backflips ever!! You gotta blast some standing or rolling ones there mad fun !!
You've conquered the dirt, ramp jumping thing big time bra. What else can u do a 150ft jump over a mini van ha ha !! Cheers Happy Easter!
Keep up the dirt though enjoy watching
slpcrf450x
Active Member
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- Arrma RC's
Haha, I cant resist doing backflips. Too much fun. Rich you've got the punch on 9 lol, you can't be that concerned for the diffs.
They sell the gears for a reason. If i have to change some gears every few runs to make my son happy, its worth it. Plus I'm enjoying it too.
My original 12 tooth has last great through a heap of hard bashing but I stripped out the option 16 tooth pretty easily. I think maybe the mesh may have been to much or moved a tad on the mount. Does the copy paper really work ? Seems tight ?
Since I stripped the 16 I have put the 12 back on while I'm waiting for the 16 to arrive and it's solid.
Hanging to get the 16 back on !!!!
slpcrf450x
Active Member
- Messages
- 176
- Reaction score
- 88
- Arrma RC's
I didn't run my 12 a ton but it held together fine. I had the 16 on for only a couple runs when I broke a tooth off of it. I had a robinson 14 tooth laying around that I had ordered as a spare so I put it on and I used the paper method and it has been fine since. When I first did it I was the same way, it seemed pretty tight after the paper method.My original 12 tooth has last great through a heap of hard bashing but I stripped out the option 16 tooth pretty easily. I think maybe the mesh may have been to much or moved a tad on the mount. Does the copy paper really work ? Seems tight ?
Since I stripped the 16 I have put the 12 back on while I'm waiting for the 16 to arrive and it's solid.
Hanging to get the 16 back on !!!!
My original 12 tooth has last great through a heap of hard bashing but I stripped out the option 16 tooth pretty easily. I think maybe the mesh may have been to much or moved a tad on the mount. Does the copy paper really work ? Seems tight ?
Since I stripped the 16 I have put the 12 back on while I'm waiting for the 16 to arrive and it's solid.
Hanging to get the 16 back on !!!!
paper method should work fine, the problem is, the gears aren't usually perfectly round so the gear may still be tight in spots. You want a slight amount of play all around the gear. I try to cheat and use the paper to make it quick but I usually end up doing it by feel.
Cheers thanks for the input !! I just found this puppy for a decent price so hopefully I won't have any probs.
mrfurious40k
Active Member
My original 12 tooth has last great through a heap of hard bashing but I stripped out the option 16 tooth pretty easily. I think maybe the mesh may have been to much or moved a tad on the mount. Does the copy paper really work ? Seems tight ?
Since I stripped the 16 I have put the 12 back on while I'm waiting for the 16 to arrive and it's solid.
Hanging to get the 16 back on !!!!
I've been using paper as a spacer since I started racing and was changing motors and gears multiple times per hour. The trick is to use quality paper (20 pound I think) and only press the gears together to press the paper firmly. If the teeth are punching through the paper, you've made the mesh too tight and you need to get a new strip of paper to start again.
Thanks for the tip it's a ripper !!!
So do you think the thickness of the paper should be around 1mm ? I've been doing it by feel, sound and movement trying to match (how I remember) it was stock out of the box.
mrfurious40k
Active Member
So
Sorry for the triple post, the mobile site was really buggy earlier. Lol.
Anyway, the paper is your gauge to keep you from setting it too tight (Don't tear the paper) but letting you get it close enough to be a good mesh (pinching the paper so the gears mark/indent each side is the goal). Basically, the way I like my gears set is to be able to wiggle them about one mm or two back and forth once the mesh is set. It's not super scientific with teeth this big but if you're too tight, you'll bind and heat up the motor or if you're too loose the teeth will slip under stress and possibly chip a tooth or completely destroy a gear.
Sorry for the triple post, the mobile site was really buggy earlier. Lol.
Anyway, the paper is your gauge to keep you from setting it too tight (Don't tear the paper) but letting you get it close enough to be a good mesh (pinching the paper so the gears mark/indent each side is the goal). Basically, the way I like my gears set is to be able to wiggle them about one mm or two back and forth once the mesh is set. It's not super scientific with teeth this big but if you're too tight, you'll bind and heat up the motor or if you're too loose the teeth will slip under stress and possibly chip a tooth or completely destroy a gear.
