Outcast Outcast 4S rear assembly

[TH1CK]

How do I get to the screws that face towards the front - holding the wheelie bar - trying to replace Wheelie bar with one from T-Bone racing.

 

[jondilly1974]

How do I get to the screws that face towards the front - holding the wheelie bar - trying to replace Wheelie bar with one from T-Bone racing.

You have to remove the whole assembly. The bottom two screws into the diff, two on the rear i to the tower, and two holding the body posts. Slips up and off. Then you can get to the rear facing screws.

 

[TH1CK]

You have to remove the whole assembly. The bottom two screws into the diff, two on the rear i to the tower, and two holding the body posts. Slips up and off. Then you can get to the rear facing screws.

Thank you sir.

 

[TH1CK]

It appears I'm missing something. How do I access the 2 screws behind the fake license plate, I can't even see them - but it seems like they are the 2 you mentioned going into the tower.
Thank you again.

 

[jondilly1974]

I will be honest and say I don’t have that particular bumper to take a pic and show you. Here is a link to the exploded parts diagram LINK

Here is a screenshot of the screws you need to remove to pull the entire wing, bumper, and wheelie bar assembly off. Once removed, you can get to the other screws. There will be three to get the bumper off.

 

[Custnam]

I think I know which ones you are talking about. In the pic see the circled one. Theres 1 on each side. Once you get those out you can get it off. I use a driver with a rounded hex to get to those. Once those are removed you can get the bumper off to get to the other ones. They are a bit of a pain.

 

[TH1CK]

Thank you.

 

[3dplank]

You have to poke through the sticker. They a covered by the sticker.

 

[TH1CK]

Thank you - Everyone!!!

 

[nathanbarker]

I just bought my son the Outcast 4S for Christmas 2019. We are new to the RC business but already becoming a mechanic, unfortunately. He flipped it a few times from bumps in the grass and the rear C Hub broke along with the front right driveshaft. Are these cars really this weak or am I expecting too much? From the ARRMA website, you would think they can take multiple hits. I upgraded to 4 aluminum hubs from Hot Racing on eBay. Anyone had an problems going that route? I couldn't find an aluminum drive shaft. Anyway, just wondering because I would have expected more. I also already had to take out the clutch and add some loctite to the screw because the gears were spinning causing the tires not to move. Is this the RC life, 10 minutes of fun and repair city, lol? Thanks!

 

[jondilly1974]

I just bought my son the Outcast 4S for Christmas 2019. We are new to the RC business but already becoming a mechanic, unfortunately. He flipped it a few times from bumps in the grass and the rear C Hub broke along with the front right driveshaft. Are these cars really this weak or am I expecting too much? From the ARRMA website, you would think they can take multiple hits. I upgraded to 4 aluminum hubs from Hot Racing on eBay. Anyone had an problems going that route? I couldn't find an aluminum drive shaft. Anyway, just wondering because I would have expected more. I also already had to take out the clutch and add some loctite to the screw because the gears were spinning causing the tires not to move. Is this the RC life, 10 minutes of fun and repair city, lol? Thanks!

Yeah some of the parts will break. These plastic parts get brittle in the colder months too. The HR parts fix the hubs. The slipper is a science to get right. I hope you let the TL cure before putting it back in. It will glue the rear hub to the rear diff input shaft and make future removal even harder. Just a tip I have learned the hard way. I get my slipper set the way I want it, not loose, but not too tight either. You will end up popping u-joints in the driveshafts if too tight. Then when I have it dialed in, I put a drop of blue TL inside the rear hub and let it settle on the screw threads. I leave it standing up like this for 24 hours so it dries in the front part of the rear hub. This keeps it from bonding to Therese diff input gear shaft.

 

[nathanbarker]

Thanks for the advice. I certainly didn't let it cure for 24 hours so that may not be coming out again. Guess we will see. I appreciate the advice! Good to hear the hubs would be okay.

 

[jondilly1974]

Thanks for the advice. I certainly didn't let it cure for 24 hours so that may not be coming out again. Guess we will see. I appreciate the advice! Good to hear the hubs would be okay.

No problem. If you do take it apart again, make sure to use plenty of isopropyl alcohol and clean everything up before assembling again. The screw, spring, and hubs will have residual TL on them. Will take a few mins to clean them up. Let that dry for a min. Then assemble dry. When it’s dialed in, do the drop of TL and give it time to cure. This has fixed all my slipper issues.

 

[nathanbarker]

Would replacing the front hubs with aluminum hubs cause the servo to not be powerful enough to turn right and left? It worked for one day and I lost steering. Nothing is broken that I can tell and I replaced the factory servo with a new one and it still won’t turn hard enough. It acts like it wants to and does a little, but not enough to either side to get the truck any direction but straight. Steering column moves fine alone when I took it apart. Thanks for any help!

 

[jondilly1974]

Would replacing the front hubs with aluminum hubs cause the servo to not be powerful enough to turn right and left? It worked for one day and I lost steering. Nothing is broken that I can tell and I replaced the factory servo with a new one and it still won’t turn hard enough. It acts like it wants to and does a little, but not enough to either side to get the truck any direction but straight. Steering column moves fine alone when I took it apart. Thanks for any help!

Could be. There are two screws that hold the caster block to the hubs. Make sure they’re not too tight.

 

[Surchaufeur]

You have to poke through the sticker. They a covered by the sticker.

Sticker where? Owo

Would replacing the front hubs with aluminum hubs cause the servo to not be powerful enough to turn right and left? It worked for one day and I lost steering. Nothing is broken that I can tell and I replaced the factory servo with a new one and it still won’t turn hard enough. It acts like it wants to and does a little, but not enough to either side to get the truck any direction but straight. Steering column moves fine alone when I took it apart. Thanks for any help!

I don't think remplacing the hubs to metal is a good idea. The shocks and steering links will be more important imo
The hubs are near bulletproofs the only guy i saw to break one was @bicketybam he tried to land the kraton 4s on is truck bed and it was freezing cold outside

Could be. There are two screws that hold the caster block to the hubs. Make sure they’re not too tight.

What he said☝?☝? Or your servo saver is just broken
Unbold the screw that connects the steering assembly to the servo and the steering assembly should turn left and right without any binding if it gets jammed somwehere check for over tightened screws

I just bought my son the Outcast 4S for Christmas 2019. We are new to the RC business but already becoming a mechanic, unfortunately. He flipped it a few times from bumps in the grass and the rear C Hub broke along with the front right driveshaft. Are these cars really this weak or am I expecting too much? From the ARRMA website, you would think they can take multiple hits. I upgraded to 4 aluminum hubs from Hot Racing on eBay. Anyone had an problems going that route? I couldn't find an aluminum drive shaft. Anyway, just wondering because I would have expected more. I also already had to take out the clutch and add some loctite to the screw because the gears were spinning causing the tires not to move. Is this the RC life, 10 minutes of fun and repair city, lol? Thanks!

The only driveshaft i saw getting broken well they did not broke at all the u join just spreaded and poped out. The slipper clutch for the outcast factory is set to 1.25 turn from fully tight and should stay that way imo. Only the 4s kraton needs tunning because of longer wheelbase. I can say i bashed my kraton pretty bad the only damage is cracked front end body fixed easy with shoe goe 2 broken arms that is what happens when you almost full s speed into a metal post and one body because i kissed a light pole at almost full speed because i was behind a tree

 

[Camaroboy383]

Sticker where? Owo

I don't think remplacing the hubs to metal is a good idea. The shocks and steering links will be more important imo
The hubs are near bulletproofs the only guy i saw to break one was @bicketybam he tried to land the kraton 4s on is truck bed and it was freezing cold outside

What he said☝?☝? Or your servo saver is just broken
Unbold the screw that connects the steering assembly to the servo and the steering assembly should turn left and right without any binding if it gets jammed somwehere check for over tightened screws

The only driveshaft i saw getting broken well they did not broke at all the u join just spreaded and poped out. The slipper clutch for the outcast factory is set to 1.25 turn from fully tight and should stay that way imo. Only the 4s kraton needs tunning because of longer wheelbase. I can say i bashed my kraton pretty bad the only damage is cracked front end body fixed easy with shoe goe 2 broken arms that is what happens when you almost full s speed into a metal post and one body because i kissed a light pole at almost full speed because i was behind a tree

the license plate sticker that says outcast.. it needs to be romoved or holes poked through it to access the screws that enter the tower..

 

[Surchaufeur]

the license plate sticker that says outcast.. it needs to be romoved or holes poked through it to access the screws that enter the tower..

Ah but i have a kraton 4s and i never saw those screw holes i only know the screw head is in a weird spot a normal hex driver cant get there

 

[Camaroboy383]

Ah but i have a kraton 4s and i never saw those screw holes i only know the screw head is in a weird spot a normal hex driver cant get there

you get at the screws your talking about by removing the assembly.. your kraton is the same...3s and 4s all have the same screw locations