Outcast Outcast 4s V2 and Kraton 4s V2 My experience

[Velodromed]

I so wish one of these would fit under that stupid servo mount

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Need to figure out how to rig up proper steering… I mean, even the Team Assc. mt10 fits a small standard servo in it.

 

[quiznatodd bidness]

I so wish one of these would fit under that stupid servo mount

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That makes me want to make my own mount or adaptor to raise up the servo high enough to fit that under it…

 

[HZRDOS]

That makes me want to make my own mount or adaptor to raise up the servo high enough to fit that under it…

Those style savers are awesome. Use them on my solid axle rigs. Even adjustable, and very simple to dial in.

 

[Arrmarcy]

ill leave this here

Possible....sure. with some mods and will not look great.

 

[djrahbee]

Just stripped my second center drive shaft where it attaches to the front diff input gear yesterday. Wasn't sending at all..just ripping around yard. Not sure how common that is.

 

[HZRDOS]

ill leave this here

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Yeah, I know what they look like. Did the exact same thing with my old V1 OC 4s. Added the K4s chassis and used the OC body. If you like it, awesome. I just think it does not look right with the wheelbase so far off the fender cuts.

 

[BashIT]

Both have the same upgrades before I even placed in a pack - so cant speak for stock. Running a 2200kv sensored system with 15t in both of them. Plenty fast. Outcast will do a standing backflip with no issues. Steering - I have a 35kg servo and Kimbrough 124 saver in both. Only "toughness" upgrade I did was aluminum yokes front and rear.

@HZRDOS
Would you mind sharing:

1) which sensored 2200kv motor/esc kombo you are using
2) which brand did you choose for your yokes ( https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=ATF11Y02;c=1385 ) ?
--> did they break regularly for you, or what was the main motivation for upgrading them ?

@ALL
3) Is it worth upgrading the rear and front hubs + the steering block to e.g. HR aluminum version? I have only broken one rear hub so far.

4) What is the best mod 0.8 brand for pinions and spur gears which fit the outcast 4s v2 ? Or is there even a vendor out there offering mod 1 pinion and spurs as upgrades.

Thank you all very much in advance for your inputs.

 

[HZRDOS]

@HZRDOS
Would you mind sharing:

1) which sensored 2200kv motor/esc kombo you are using
2) which brand did you choose for your yokes ( https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=ATF11Y02;c=1385 ) ?
--> did they break regularly for you, or what was the main motivation for upgrading them ?

@ALL
3) Is it worth upgrading the rear and front hubs + the steering block to e.g. HR aluminum version? I have only broken one rear hub so far.

4) What is the best mod 0.8 brand for pinions and spur gears which fit the outcast 4s v2 ? Or is there even a vendor out there offering mod 1 pinion and spurs as upgrades.

Thank you all very much in advance for your inputs.

Castle Mamba Monster X 1515 combo. I must add - I have this exact setup in (4) different 4s rigs...and LOVE it. Have it in Losi, Axial, and (2) Arrma rigs. I feel this is the perfect setup for a 4s rig.

I use the HR yokes. Using aluminum yokes reduces flex which will help maintain a consistent mesh with the ring and pinion gears. I have used them for years with all my 3s/4s platforms - have NEVER stripped a diff ring/pinion.

The front steering blocks on my older 3s/4s rigs - I broke 3 or 4. Started using the HR ones after that. That said - I have a set of HR ones ready for my new V2 4s rigs - but have not had any issues with the stock ones yet. Don't know if just luck, better driving, or they upgraded the stock materials.

I use Robinson Racing for my MOD 0.8 pinions. I use stock Arrma steel spur gears. Never had an issue with either of them. Just get your mesh correct.

 

[BashIT]

Castle Mamba Monster X 1515 combo. I must add - I have this exact setup in (4) different 4s rigs...and LOVE it. Have it in Losi, Axial, and (2) Arrma rigs. I feel this is the perfect setup for a 4s rig.

I use the HR yokes. Using aluminum yokes reduces flex which will help maintain a consistent mesh with the ring and pinion gears. I have used them for years with all my 3s/4s platforms - have NEVER stripped a diff ring/pinion.

The front steering blocks on my older 3s/4s rigs - I broke 3 or 4. Started using the HR ones after that. That said - I have a set of HR ones ready for my new V2 4s rigs - but have not had any issues with the stock ones yet. Don't know if just luck, better driving, or they upgraded the stock materials.

I use Robinson Racing for my MOD 0.8 pinions. I use stock Arrma steel spur gears. Never had an issue with either of them. Just get your mesh correct.

Thx a lot for the great feedback !

The Castle Mamba Monster X 1515 looks like a nice combo. I was tempted to upgrade to a Hobbywing MAX 8 G2 / 4278SD - 2250kV (https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbyw...rushless-esc-motor-combo-hwa38010405/p1416730) combo before I read your comment.
--> in case anyone has experience with both of these ESC motor combos, please let me know how these to compare with each other in practice.

A couple of mounting questions:

1. Do you maybe have a photo of how you mounted the motor and ESC ?
2. Are you running the motor with additional passive cooling or a fan ?
3. Do you have any support below the motor to reduce stress on the motor mount, or is the 41mm motor can flush with the plastic chassis ?

 

[HZRDOS]

Thx a lot for the great feedback !

The Castle Mamba Monster X 1515 looks like a nice combo. I was tempted to upgrade to a Hobbywing MAX 8 G2 / 4278SD - 2250kV (https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbyw...rushless-esc-motor-combo-hwa38010405/p1416730) combo before I read your comment.
--> in case anyone has experience with both of these ESC motor combos, please let me know how these to compare with each other in practice.

A couple of mounting questions:

1. Do you maybe have a photo of how you mounted the motor and ESC ?
2. Are you running the motor with additional passive cooling or a fan ?
3. Do you have any support below the motor to reduce stress on the motor mount, or is the 41mm motor can flush with the plastic chassis ?

No supports, not needed for this 42mm can. It is a tight fit. Modified some fan mounts so it uses zip ties to attach. You can see how close they are to drive shaft. This is from my Kraton 4s. The OC4s is setup exactly the same. I use an RPM ESC mount made for the MMX. Has a nice little switch mount it comes with. I just drill holes in the bottom mount plate that match the holes in the receiver box cover. Works great.

 

[Puddlejumpernva]

Just stripped my second center drive shaft where it attaches to the front diff input gear yesterday. Wasn't sending at all..just ripping around yard. Not sure how common that is.

I'm in my fourth center drive shaft on my K4S. First one got eaten through with a mis-managed battery wire. Second one was after a gnarly front end crash that took out five teeth of the front diff, eventually seizing up and snapping the shaft. The last one was like yours, all the sudden no front drive, the inner splines driving the front input gear stripped out. My diffs are shimmed super smooth too.

They're finally back in stock today. I had spares from JennysRC fortunately!

 

[HZRDOS]

I'm in my fourth center drive shaft on my K4S. First one got eaten through with a mis-managed battery wire. Second one was after a gnarly front end crash that took out five teeth of the front diff, eventually seizing up and snapping the shaft. The last one was like yours, all the sudden no front drive, the inner splines driving the front input gear stripped out. My diffs are shimmed super smooth too.

They're finally back in stock today. I had spares from JennysRC fortunately!

That is crazy. I ha e been through (2) 3s rigs, V1 Kraton 4s and V1 OC4s, now with a V2 of each, and still never had a center driveshaft issue. All rigs were overpowered with Castle systems also.