My first Arrma was a Notorious V4. I loved that truck. It did everything I was looking for and then some. Anyway of course I sold it quite a while back. Homer “DOH”! And since then Ive been shuffling cars in and out, upgrading, etc. Well I decided to come back to 6s and I am so glad I did. The Outcast 6s EXB is basically built just like it would be if I bought a V1 and did all the upgrades myself. But me being me that doesn't mean I haven't been upgrading it. As I said before upgrading, building, and working on them is half the fun for me. I can sit there for hours tweaking this and that until I get it right. Well with my Outcast 6s EXB its no different. I had an upgrade plan before I even bought it. And after tearing it apart Ive adjusted my upgrade plan here and there and Im pretty sure its final now. Im just waiting on the rest of the parts. Anyway below is a full list of all the parts with part numbers for anyone who may need them along with my daily build log. Thanks for reading!
UPGRADES AND OTHER PARTS LIST: UPDATED 5-24-22
At this point I decided to buy all of the available Hot Racing suspension mounts and found a seller on Ebay selling all 5 below retail so I picked up all 5. I then decaled the body using my ARRMA Forum decals I bought from @WoodiE . I then tried to install the new motor bearings and was able to get the old ones out fairly easy using the bread trick on one. But installing the new ones was a pain. At the time I didnt know about the freezer trick so I tapped the pinion side one into place. I got it in, but it feels a bit rough when spinning it so I think its damaged inside. Anyway I have a new motor on the way and another set of the TBR ceramics, and this time Ill be using the freezer with NO TAPPING.
Day 5:
I received the Tamiya flat black paint I ordered so today was painting the interior. I removed all the body hardware, the skids, and post protectors then very carefully masked off the inside “protection” decals and all along the outer edges. I then painted the inside, and it came out awesome. It almost fully fixed the super glue damaged areas as well as covering all the hot glue and wires. Heres some pics of how it came out. Its probably the cleanest LED install Ive done.
Day 6:
The body now fully dry I reinstalled all the body hardware, skids, and post protectors. Also the new rear axle I ordered came so I installed that. Thats all I can do for now while I wait for additional parts, but so far this has been a fun build. If you read this far thanks for reading! Feel free to post comments or questions.
To be continued...
UPGRADES AND OTHER PARTS LIST: UPDATED 5-24-22
- Batteries. I went with 4 Socokin 6S Lipo Battery 22.2V 100C 7200mAh
- EXB bumper ARA320573
- DS3235 35kg servo
- Rocket Aluminum 35mm motor fan
- 3d printed fan cover
- Hot Racing Aluminum Center Differential Cover HRAANN38C01
- Chassis Protector (Cut your own Vinyl) Carbon Fiber look
- LED's Front Blue Halo/ Bright and rear reds
- ARRMA 1/5 roof rails ARA480038 (used as fender/ hood skids)
- RPM rear skid plate RPM81332
- Kraton 4s body post protectors ARA480017 (Used as roof protection)
- T-Bone Typhon 6s bumper 00037 (Used as rear bumper)
- Tires: Have another brand new set of Backflips and new Copperhead 2's
- RPM Wing mount RPM81642
- Extra body
- Bearings needed. 6x10x3 for the steering posts, 5x10x4 for wheelie bar
- Extra screws. Ordered several different sizes of Monster bolts 12.9 screws
- Motor Bearings. Ordered a set of TBR ceramics (1) 5x16x5 and (1)5x13x4
- Hot Racing suspension mounts: AON08FR01,AON08FF01,AON09RR01,AON09RF01, and
AON08FU01. Found a seller on EB selling all of these pretty cheap. I know they arent “needed”. - Hot Racing closed end wheel nuts NRO10N02
- Pinions. Already had quite a few D5 Mod 1s. Ordered a new 14t and 15t.
- Hot Racing shock collars and caps. AON156AX01 and AON156BX01
- Arrma ARA330782 Shock Springs 72mm
- Arrma ARA330780 Shock Springs 85mm
- Arrma ARA330776 Shock Body 16x54mm Aluminum Black
- Arrma ARA330777 Shock Body 16x62mm Aluminum Black
- Arrma sliding motor mount plate black ARA320648
- Arrma sliding motor mount black ARA320647
- Hot Racing Black large Wing Button Aluminum (2) AON40U01
DAY 1:
Day one was just unboxing it, looking everything over for leaks, missing screws, etc. Everything looked great.
Day 2:
Started an almost complete disassembly. All was fine until I got to the rear hubs. I originally planned on replacing the rear dog bones with CVD's so I had to remove the rear axles. Both were way over thread locked. I was able to get one side undone using my soldering iron on the screw which almost always works. Well on the other side no matter how much heat I used the thread lock wouldnt break. I ended up stripping the set screw. I was able to dremel out the screw enough so that I could tap the pin out. So this saved the hub carrier. But I had to order a new rear axle.
After removing everything from the chassis I was able to start the chassis protector. I got the idea of using a sheet of Vinyl that with a carbon fiber pattern from @The_Otherside. In the past I used ones that were precut with logos on them like the Monster logo, but this time I decided on a plain carbon fiber pattern. Its not hard, but a bit time consuming if you also cut out all the screw holes which I did. I cut and trimmed it all and it came out great. Should provide at least a small amount of protection and looks pretty cool too. I will also be installing a TBR front bumper on the rear and the new updated RPM chassis skid.
Next on the list was the diffs. I took them apart, one was super low on fluid, so I put new Team Factory diff fluid in. 60k front, 500k center, and 30k rear. I ran this before in my Notorious and liked it. (Switched to 60k front max, 200k center max, 20k rear open). Then installed the diffs into the cases. Next I installed new sealed bearings into the wheelie bar wheels, installed the RPM wing mount, and new sealed bearings into the steering posts. I installed the 35mm fan onto the motors heat sink with the 3d printed cover.
Day 3:
Installed Flysky FS-BS6 receiver, then the DS3235 35kg servo. It mounts perfect and lines up with the steering link if you don't use any of the plastic spacers. Installed the new Hot Racing steering link. I then made a lead wire with a JST connector that goes from the receiver out to the body. This will power the LEDs when connected. Then it was on to the shocks. Although they felt pretty good and werent leaking I still dumped the stock fluid and went with new TF 80wt all around.
Next on the list while I wait for other parts is the body. I have a plan on how I want this to go and if done right it should be well protected, look great, and have some cool LEDs. First was using the 5th scale roof rails as fender protectors. I installed these and it fits and looks awesome. I also like using the Kraton 4s body post protectors anywhere where the body might scrape. So I put 4 of them on the roof. These also installed easily and look beefy. Next was the very time consuming yet fun installation of the LEDs. I got these started by installing the Halos in the front, running the wires to the roof where I will be splicing the rears into the harness. If any of you have used hot glue on the inside of these bodies for some of them it just doesn't stick, and peels away. My “solution” to that is dropping a drop of super glue here and there as I go. Unfortunately the glue damages the paint and can be seen on the outside as well. Its not bad but once you know its there you cant help but look. Anyway despite this I just kept on and eventually got the fronts and rears fully glued into place. I also glued the Halo toggle switch to the window area so I can switch between just outer Halo round lights, and the full bright ones that light up the street! To fix the areas that the super glue damaged I ordered some Tamiya flat black paint. Ill be masking off, then painting the entire inside again covering the damage. I do have an extra body so the plan is use this one for night runs and the other one in the day.
At this point I decided to buy all of the available Hot Racing suspension mounts and found a seller on Ebay selling all 5 below retail so I picked up all 5. I then decaled the body using my ARRMA Forum decals I bought from @WoodiE . I then tried to install the new motor bearings and was able to get the old ones out fairly easy using the bread trick on one. But installing the new ones was a pain. At the time I didnt know about the freezer trick so I tapped the pinion side one into place. I got it in, but it feels a bit rough when spinning it so I think its damaged inside. Anyway I have a new motor on the way and another set of the TBR ceramics, and this time Ill be using the freezer with NO TAPPING.
Day 5:
I received the Tamiya flat black paint I ordered so today was painting the interior. I removed all the body hardware, the skids, and post protectors then very carefully masked off the inside “protection” decals and all along the outer edges. I then painted the inside, and it came out awesome. It almost fully fixed the super glue damaged areas as well as covering all the hot glue and wires. Heres some pics of how it came out. Its probably the cleanest LED install Ive done.
Day 6:
The body now fully dry I reinstalled all the body hardware, skids, and post protectors. Also the new rear axle I ordered came so I installed that. Thats all I can do for now while I wait for additional parts, but so far this has been a fun build. If you read this far thanks for reading! Feel free to post comments or questions.
To be continued...
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