Kraton OutCast 6S to Kraton #1 Mods and Parts

[jhalpinjr]

Hey all,

Day 1- Mods for days and a brief overview of what I am doing. All the part numbers I am using are in my YouTube description! More to come! I went a bit overboard LOL. She will be ready for serious bashing!

Open to suggestions on new shock springs- I want to weigh the car once complete; The history on why I decided to do this: I cannot handle all the wheelies and the out of control style/seat of your pants driving style of the Outcast. I crashed her bad and broke the front diff housing and A- Arm- this was the catalyst for this project. Enjoy all.

 

[2fast4u]

You will find those stainless screws are not nearly as strong as the originals. The rest looks pretty good.

 

[Rav3n]

You will find those stainless screws are not nearly as strong as the originals. The rest looks pretty good.

I found out a few years ago most reviews were right. They broke faster than the stock screws.

 

[jkflow]

This is strictly my opinion and ok to ignore as this is your choice. Enjoy the heck out of it!

GPM arms are nice looking but they not useful for a basher. Hard to replace the plastic ends i.e. impossible to find replacement and you will break them.
Stainless screws - use them only where mechanical force is NOT an issue. They are ~ 30% weaker and will bend a lot easier. Wherever you have plastic they are ok to use. Do not use for metal to metal or the shock mounts.
RPM arms - great choice
M2C - top choice
GPM hubs - honesty do not know but aluminim hubs are good, I use HR.
GPM Servo mount is probably ok as well. Any brand is better than the plastic stock.

Highly suggest to ask for advice prior buying. You have a mix of good parts and Grand Poopoo Material. Stay away from Integy as well.

 

[2fast4u]

This is strictly my opinion and ok to ignore as this is your choice. Enjoy the heck out of it!

GPM arms are nice looking but they not useful for a basher. Hard to replace the plastic ends i.e. impossible to find replacement and you will break them.
Stainless screws - use them only where mechanical force is NOT an issue. They are ~ 30% weaker and will bend a lot easier. Wherever you have plastic they are ok to use. Do not use for metal to metal or the shock mounts.
RPM arms - great choice
M2C - top choice
GPM hubs - honesty do not know but aluminim hubs are good, I use HR.
GPM Servo mount is probably ok as well. Any brand is better than the plastic stock.

Highly suggest to ask for advice prior buying. You have a mix of good parts and Grand Poopoo Material. Stay away from Integy as well.

I didn't want to bust both balls at the same time. But I wholely agree on the GPM/Integy parts.

 

[jhalpinjr]

This is strictly my opinion and ok to ignore as this is your choice. Enjoy the heck out of it!

GPM arms are nice looking but they not useful for a basher. Hard to replace the plastic ends i.e. impossible to find replacement and you will break them.
Stainless screws - use them only where mechanical force is NOT an issue. They are ~ 30% weaker and will bend a lot easier. Wherever you have plastic they are ok to use. Do not use for metal to metal or the shock mounts.
RPM arms - great choice
M2C - top choice
GPM hubs - honesty do not know but aluminim hubs are good, I use HR.
GPM Servo mount is probably ok as well. Any brand is better than the plastic stock.

Highly suggest to ask for advice prior buying. You have a mix of good parts and Grand Poopoo Material. Stay away from Integy as well.

Which GPM Arms are you referring too? The turn buckles or the steering arms?

 

[jkflow]

Which GPM Arms are you referring too? The turn buckles or the steering arms?

I said RPM arms, those at ~ 1:45 in your video.

"RPM arms - great choice"

 

[jhalpinjr]

I didn't want to bust both balls at the same time. But I wholely agree on the GPM/Integy parts.

Well most of the inspiration an research led me to these parts- the Screws were free- might not use them.

She jump 60- 80' jumps with most of these parts....So dunno we will see

 

[jhalpinjr]

Well All, ran in to my first issue that seems to be stumping me- I cannot seem to get the new fast eddy bearings to fit into the HotRacing diff case-the one that goes against the casing for the input shaft; it is so tight- also like pressed in fit.

Any ideas? EDIT: was able to get a socket and get even pressure-popped right in!!

 

[jkflow]

HR/GPM/Integy are not known for exact machining, you are running into tolerance issues and your only choice is to carefully increase the diameter on the hubs. The bearings are precise i.e. the hubs are the issue. Pending how severe this is, use fine sandpaper or other tools to work the hubs.
Don't overdo it or they turn into junk rather quickly. Last thing you want is slop in the bearing area.

 

[jhalpinjr]

HR/GPM/Integy are not known for exact machining, you are running into tolerance issues and your only choice is to carefully increase the diameter on the hubs. The bearings are precise i.e. the hubs are the issue. Pending how severe this is, use fine sandpaper or other tools to work the hubs.
Don't overdo it or they turn into junk rather quickly. Last thing you want is slop in the bearing area.

Thanks Flow- it was actually a perfect fit- i kept cocking the bearing; using a socket, I was able to get equal force and she went right in. One down, lol. Appreciate the reply!!

 

[jondilly1974]

Yep that big bearing can be a pain to pop in there. My Avids took some persuading into the stock housing as well.