Depends on how hard you want to send it. A new, beefier chassis has been my greatest investment so far. M2C Racing and Just Bash It Rc both make them. The servo mount has always been a soft spot too. Upgrading from plastic to aluminum will give a much more precise steering feel. The big one is sealed bearings. Arrma uses metal shield, and rubber sealed are much better. Less contamination so longer bearing life. A full kit means a pretty extensive tear down of the truck to do the difs and steering, but you can get the 4 corners done in relatively little time.
I agree in part to what you say, but in the case where you start to get big air and some very awkward landings, the stiffer chassis becomes a lifeline for your internals. Way less flex so the center dif stays in line better, and much less likely to kick up in the front or rear on hard nose and tail landings. For light to medium use, the stock chassis would suffice.
Idk I beat the snot out of my Outcast for over a year with hot racing chassis braces and a t2t brace and the chassis had a slight bend in the rear but the grub screws had almost punched all the way through the chassis.
the thicker chassis eliminates the need for the t2t, as long as you are still using aluminum chassis braces. The damage to the shock towers and dif cases caused by the t2t would already make the stiffer chassis a good investment. In fairness, I'm talking about really sending the truck, and on many occasions, landing in the most precarious ways. The M2C hasn't budged a mm, and I'm sure the stock chassis would have taco'd under similar circumstances.
I've thought about just doubling up the stock chassis a few times lol.
Me too. All you need is screws that are 3mm longer. The one thing that would concern me about that idea, is the possiblity of shearing the screws if one of the two plates was to move against the other. I guess you could bond them with some very thin epoxy, but it still seems a little sketchy. I know that the aftermarket chassis' are expensive, but so far, it's easily one of my best investments, and trust me, I've made a few.
Outcast and Notorious are the same truck. There's a post on here about setting your esc. Found it. https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/outcast-esc-punch-settings-programming-made-easy.3410/
I'm trying to hold off on my M2C until the fall for when I do a winter rebuild.
Not that I'm aware of. There are posts/videos about building diffs for these things. Shimming helps them last a lot longer. If you have stripped screws in the cup or in the diff case cap, replace the parts, don't try to use them.
The Mugen shims seemed to be made out of a harder material, so when they showed up with the oil I wanted, I tore all the diffs down, cleaned/inspected them, removed the factory shims and used the full set of Mugen shims (1 on each spider, one under each sun gear) as well as replaced the shims on the outside of the diff for ring/pinion mesh with some Tamiya ones to remove any excess slop. I also used heavier oil (my diffs had almost none in them and I bought it new). I run 100k/500k/100k. Too heavy for some, but I like how it works.
Not that I'm aware of. There are posts/videos about building diffs for these things. Shimming helps them last a lot longer. If you have stripped screws in the cup or in the diff case cap, replace the parts, don't try to use them.
The newer trucks don't "need" shims as they already come with them. That said, my outcast had some shims in it (v2/2018 version), but not under the larger sun gears. The spider gear shims were worn pretty good only after running 3-4 packs through the truck. I had ordered the Mugen Seiki shim kit for it when I got the truck, but had to wait a week for them to show up. I did not wait a week to drive the truck.
Aside from having stripped diff case cap screws, I haven't had any diff issues. I stripped 2 of the front diff cap screws early on and decided CA glue was good enough. I should have replaced the entire case as it wasn't long after that that I had the diff skipping teeth under hard braking. Then the t-bone rear skid/wheelie bar ripped threads out of 2 of the rear diff cap/case and again, shredded the pinion/ring gear. Since I replaced both cases with new I haven't had an issue and that was at least 6 months ago, got the truck last July.
Check your droop. If your droop screws are backed out too far your dog bones can pop out easier.
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