Outcast Outcast issues

robl45

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This Outcast is a really great truck. I got it for my son and he loves it. Its probably the most fun I've had with an RC since the clodbuster years back.

A couple of design issues boggle my mind though. The wing mount is a joke, the wing screws snap right off. Did Arrma not think to maybe use screws with a nut on the end instead of small little machine screws?

The rear swaybar is held with a piece of plastic with 2 screws. I took the stupid thing off rather than pay 10 bucks to get the piece of plastic that apparently deformed slightly and won't hold the sway bar anymore. It really should be held down better.

I haven't had to fix the back suspension yet, but the front suspension cracked the black plastic piece where the upper arm pins screw into. Looking at that piece there is no support so it likely will just break again.

Other than that we chipped a number of teeth off the pinion which likely was my sons fault, but the other design issues just kind of boggle my mind on an otherwise decently built truck.
 

TwiZted SkullZ

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Compared to other RC cars in the Outcast class of bashers,it's pretty well built considering how much
they weigh and how fast the can go.
But STILL stuff breaks!
The screws on the rear wing are too short,just like the rear bumper mounting screws are too short on the Senton,for example.
In some instances it seems Arrma just used whatever screws they had available.
Both are easy fixes though with a trip to your local Ace store.

Never had a problem with the sway bars,some guys just take them off any way,'cause the Outcast is not really a
track/cornering type car.
The black plastic suspension piece you're talking about broke on mine too,along with the diff housing mounting screw standoff.
Mainly from too many hard landings off a ramp trying to do flips etc.....to be expected,somethings gotta give.
The pinion teeth chipping sounds like an adjustment issue to me.maybe too much free play between the pinion and spur/crown gear.
 
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robl45

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Pull the rear bar plastic, its two screws and you;ll see what I'm talking about. I just took it off, Obviously things break, but these are design issues Just looking at the back mounting suspension piece versus the front one, it looks to be a stronger design.

I also can't excuse arrma for just using whatever screws they had. The manufacturer IMHO should be fixing the design issues and issuing replacement parts to people. Me having to waste time today to take the battery box off and chop the screws down is stupid. Luckily it didn't damage the packs too badly.

I do agree its built pretty well, I'm surprised really how well it does against my son who does constant backflips with it. But its these little design issues that start spoiling an otherwise nice truck.

The pinion chipped most likely because the kid doesn't understand to release the throttle under power. He's getting it, but at a little under 8 years old, there is only so much I can ask for. Luckily I had my pinion puller from 25 plus years ago to get the pinion off as it was never coming off any other way. I put a new traxxas pinion on and it slipped right on so I don't know if the arrma pinion was too tight or what. Hopefully we get another few weeks out of it before he breaks more things..
 

Rich Duperbash

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Pull the rear bar plastic, its two screws and you;ll see what I'm talking about. I just took it off, Obviously things break, but these are design issues Just looking at the back mounting suspension piece versus the front one, it looks to be a stronger design.

I also can't excuse arrma for just using whatever screws they had. The manufacturer IMHO should be fixing the design issues and issuing replacement parts to people. Me having to waste time today to take the battery box off and chop the screws down is stupid. Luckily it didn't damage the packs too badly.

I do agree its built pretty well, I'm surprised really how well it does against my son who does constant backflips with it. But its these little design issues that start spoiling an otherwise nice truck.

The pinion chipped most likely because the kid doesn't understand to release the throttle under power. He's getting it, but at a little under 8 years old, there is only so much I can ask for. Luckily I had my pinion puller from 25 plus years ago to get the pinion off as it was never coming off any other way. I put a new traxxas pinion on and it slipped right on so I don't know if the arrma pinion was too tight or what. Hopefully we get another few weeks out of it before he breaks more things..
I've burned through a few Traxxas pinions on other rigs, just wanted to recommend trying Robinson Racing Extra Hard mod 1 once you decide on a good size. My Traxxas ones wore down too quickly, Arrma spur gears seem pretty durable/hard thus far. I've had great luck running 6s with RR Extra Hard, extra price is worth it IMHO. Normally run 16 tooth with stock electronics.
 

robl45

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I got the traxxas because it was half the price and I think the kid will probably crack it again before it wears out LOL. I got 12 tooth, I believe thats stock size, you run 16 teeth on 6s with the outcast?

I've burned through a few Traxxas pinions on other rigs, just wanted to recommend trying Robinson Racing Extra Hard mod 1 once you decide on a good size. My Traxxas ones wore down too quickly, Arrma spur gears seem pretty durable/hard thus far. I've had great luck running 6s with RR Extra Hard, extra price is worth it IMHO. Normally run 16 tooth with stock electronics.
 

Rich Duperbash

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I got the traxxas because it was half the price and I think the kid will probably crack it again before it wears out LOL. I got 12 tooth, I believe thats stock size, you run 16 teeth on 6s with the outcast?
I got the traxxas because it was half the price and I think the kid will probably crack it again before it wears out LOL. I got 12 tooth, I believe thats stock size, you run 16 teeth on 6s with the outcast?
I've ran 16 since day 1, temps 140ish motor, 110-115 ESC. Prefer higher speeds, easier mesh, and less need for full throttle. With your boy driving, wouldn't recommend above 4s, just too fast when geared up. I've had issues with my own kids getting too crazy. This was my 9y/o daughter getting carried away.
69A3873C766253CAE66B3CCE030E6A26.jpg
 

Fahd

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My wing kept coming off, too. I bought some 16mm screws and they work a lot better. There is actually a nut in there (nylon locking), so if you just get longer screws, that problem is solved. (I paid $10 for 100.)
 

slpcrf450x

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My wing kept coming off, too. I bought some 16mm screws and they work a lot better. There is actually a nut in there (nylon locking), so if you just get longer screws, that problem is solved. (I paid $10 for 100.)
Yes, a lot of people don't realize that there is a nut down there in the wing mount. When my wing popped off on the first run I was able to push down hard enough on the stock length screws to get them started in the nut. They are long enough but barely. Arrma just didn't do a good job making sure they were threaded into the nut at the factory.
 

robl45

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My wing kept coming off, too. I bought some 16mm screws and they work a lot better. There is actually a nut in there (nylon locking), so if you just get longer screws, that problem is solved. (I paid $10 for 100.)


interesting, after gluing the hole to try to get the screws to stay and using some self tappers, I doubt the nut will work anymore, but I'll check. the kid likes the wing.
 

Fahd

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interesting, after gluing the hole to try to get the screws to stay and using some self tappers, I doubt the nut will work anymore, but I'll check. the kid likes the wing.
I also ordered the nylon locking nuts. 100 for something like $3.50.
 

robl45

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How did you know what nuts to buy? do you have a link? I replaced the top parts of the wing mount today, imagine my surprise when the wing mounts don't come with the nuts. I drilled out the old ones as they were filled with glue from trying to fix the holes previously, but that is ridiculous, the parts should come with the pieces needed. I don't think these are going to hold, I'll need to get some nuts at some point.
 

Fahd

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I used the Interactive Exploded View to find out what screws and nuts were used. It calls for flat head screws part number AR722316, (it's worth mentioning it looks like they have corrected in via the exploded view, because the Outcast does NOT come with 16mm) but I didn't get those ones because I also bought a pair of wing buttons, which don't have the tapered counter-sink to accept those screws. I instead purchased button head screws. The nuts are just M3 nuts with nylon locks.

Don't buy them from Arrma, though. As I said; I bought 100 of each screws and nuts for less than $14. I got mine from Amazon: Screws - Nuts

EDIT: The buttons are cheaper on Amazon, too. Also; the nuts just slide into the side of the wing mount, so it's possible that once the wing came off due to short screws, the nuts slid out of the keepers and you lost them. They were probably there initially, but you didn't realize it and lost them. Replace with these parts and your problem should be solved. I know it can be frustrating, but the fun factor of this truck outweighs any frustration. I was hardcore Traxxas before I got my Outcast. Now I'm thinking I'll be an Arrma convert. haha

This is what it looks like now:
IMG_20170312_130832.jpg
 

robl45

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Thanks I'm looking into that. The nuts were there, I had to cut the mounts apart to get them out as they were glued in as I tried to fill in the plastic so the screws would go in as I had no idea they were nuts.

Now I'm having a problem with the new pinion. No matter what I do, it keeps coming loose. Twice already. I'm locking it down with blue loctite on the flat of the shaft. Are you guys using something else?

I also just had one of the holes in the motor mount strip. Do you think arrma will warranty that? Its not like its crash damage.
 

Fahd

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Blue Loctite on the threads should do. If it doesn't hold, and it's a metal/metal application, you could try applying a little heat to the screw before putting the Loctite on. (I work in the woods running equipment and we use Loctite a lot. We always heat the parts and don't seem to have problems. I know it's not RC, but it's the same principle.) Also; make sure the screw is clean and dry.

Not sure about the warranty question. I haven't had anything break yet, and I've absolutely beat the hell out of mine since day 1. Haven't run into any breakage except the wing screws coming out.
 

robl45

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So 16mm will work for the wing? I thought they look long, the stock ones are 12mm.

The only thing I can think of with the pinion is the new one slides on easily. its a traxxas, but its the same mod and everything, the original one was solid on the shaft, so solid that I needed a gear puller to get it off. I put blue liquid loctite, I usually use the stick loctite but I find the liquid works better when I really need it to hold, then I torque down that set screw to the point where im about to strip it.
 

Fahd

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16mm will work great with the wing. That's what I'm using in the picture above and they tightened up perfect. It's getting a full nut on the threads and going through the nylon lock. The wing is nice and tight now.

How long are you letting the Loctite cure? 6-8 hours should be your minimum, but 24 hours will give you a cure to full strength.
 

robl45

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I'm calling Arrma tomorrow about the screws, you are right it says 16mm in the manual, even in my manual from January it says 16mm and the screws are definitely 12mm. I've never really warrantied any RC in 30 years, but some of this stuff is ridiculous. I did need an aircraft radio warrantied and a servo warrantied years back, but nothing like this. I fixed the battery box already cutting down the screws, but wrong screws in the wing, a motor mount that shouldn't strip and cracking pinions is out of hand.

I gotta say my kid loves this truck though, I do too. I just can't keep shelling out money for Arrma's design and workmanship issues. I have no problems replacing parts that my son breaks crashing the thing, but I'd like to get to that point before replacing things.
 

robl45

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Just called, they are sending Motor mount, pinion (backordered until Late June) and nuts and the correct size screws for the wing. Is there any way to fix the metal motor mount that stripped? They are sending another, but I'm guessing this probably wasn't just a fluke.
 

tobyjoe

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Just wanted to chime in and say that I'm sorry you're having these problems. I may have avoided them by accident by breaking mine down a bit and swapping out some screws for stainless before running it - I probably never noticed any misplaced stock screws, but hope they weren't there.

I did have the battery box problem and only scratched two hard packs before seeing the thread on here. I fixed those and the rest has been pretty amazing so far, and I drive with all the finesse and care of a toddler with a chainsaw.

I'm happy to toss any spare parts I might have - most of my upgrades were before running it, so I have a bunch of stock stuff as my own spares.

Btw - I programmed my 4PLS to have a "kid mode" switch, where i max the throttle at 20% and make a few other changes to the steering curves and such. They don't even notice that I switch it on before passing their way ;)
 

robl45

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I don't want it to seem like I hate the thing. We love this truck. Hopefully with these parts it will be good for awhile. My kid can drive the thing really well. He learned on a mini summit at 3 and a half in training mode. Two months later he was running it full speed. I held off till 7 and a half to get him this so he would understand this can do real damage if it hits someone. Still managed to hit me in the leg and then in the knee.
 
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