Outcast Outcast / Notorious body cracks

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blindy

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Arrma RC's
  1. Outcast 6s
  2. Typhon 6s
Hello there.

I was wondering if someone found out why the Outcast body tends to crack in the rear right in front of the wing and if there is some proven solution to this.
I'd like to prevent the same thing happening to that new body I got today.
 

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They all do this at some point. Depending how you drive, some sooner than later. I used E6000/ShooGoo and mesh all over the inside of the body, but more importantly I cut a thick nylon wire tie and tacked it in place along its whole length with Hot glue along that rear edge where yours cracked. Then I used E6000 all over it. It really helps. Keeps that area very rigid. You can still repair that body using this technique. FWIW. :cool:
 
The body caves in that area when hit due to the space between the mounts.. added lexan across the back is pretty much priority if you want it to live.. they also crack along the bottom of the windshield area, as well as around the post's...

I use lexan and 3m 5200 to reinforce those areas.. 5200 takes 7 days to cure so keep that in mind if going that route..
 

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It's partly due to the wing mount being smashed into it and due to the rear of the body making contact with the ground when the wing gets smashed. Not a lot you can do to avoid it other than making the void a bit larger and reinforcing it like @SrC suggests.
 
The body caves in that area when hit due to the space between the mounts.. added lexan across the back is pretty much priority if you want it to live.. they also crack along the bottom of the windshield area, as well as around the post's...

I use lexan and 3m 5200 to reinforce those areas.. 5200 takes 7 days to cure so keep that in mind if going that route..
5200 is a marine adhesive. Thanks much for that tip :cool: . I like to try different stuff. Can't go wrong with 3M.
 
5200 is a marine adhesive. Thanks much for that tip :cool: . I like to try different stuff. Can't go wrong with 3M.


Correct.. I use it by itself in certain areas as well.. once dried this stuff is insanely strong..?
 
7 days to cure though? That's not 7 hours?
From my experience slower curing adhesives are generally the strongest. 7 days means a lot of wrench time :LOL: .
 
Thak you all for your replies and suggestions.

I will try some to fix the broken body and still use it for bashing.
And keep the new body for the shelf.
I approach bodies like tires. Consumables ?
That is true but given unreliable parts supply in Europe there is nothing wrong in trying to keep the parts in usable condition as long as possible.
 
Basher bodies are consumables, like @bicketybam states. After going through a dozen bodies down the road, you will understand. They end up looking like hell. Nature of the beast. Having a shelf (display) body if you like to display your rig is ok too, if that's a thing for you. If my bodies still can be secured well enough with body clips, I will keep bashing with them. What they look like doesn't matter to me. I reinforce them when new, hold my breath and bash. I'll add gorilla tape as needed and keep moving. The parts train these days is a problem for everyone. :cool:
 
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