Outcast Outcast, quick first date with my new love!!!

Rich Duperbash

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Holy fun factor Batman! Stayed up late after watching UFC fights with wife last night, noticed I was feeling distracted/compelled to visit garage and ready new Outcast for first run today. She still hasn't noticed this new big wheeled creature in the garage (helps to have separate checking accounts). Got to garage after 11PMish with Newcastle in hand to steady myself for breaking loose gobs of factory thread lock, just like with Typhons. After quick in garage testing, due to heavy rain outside, decided to change mini 12 tooth pinion to 16, considered throwing 14 on, too tired to locate, went with 16 just to try and 100k center diff fluid. Had to go caveman wrestling off pinion due to complete excess of red locker, on motor shaft/inside pinion and everywhere but where it belongs(think Arrma should add heat gun to recommended tools). Got her out for quick first date at neighborhood park, due to limited time, and had a blast. Handled way better then I expected with short wheelbase. Surface was all undulated bark, leaves, acorns, sticks...etc. with a little decomposed granite trail, all very loose. Suspension and tires were sick! Tried 4s and 6s with stock punch setting, this thing is a beast! 6s is definately a handful with this gearing, 4s was lots of WOT but plenty fast. Did end up doing a few hard rolls and one concrete slap onto lid. Wanted to point out that the rear body area gets dug into big time by the shock towers. Whilst I expect bodies to take damage, I noticed after run that the rear had a 1" split right at the middle back end. Needs better support and definately padded towers, will probably fab rear support and attach to extra tower holes. Temps were low on 4s, got 150ish motor/118 ESC on 6s, weather was 55-57outside. Sorry this is so long, but I have to say, so far very impressed and excited about this rig. Need to get a GoPro and hit big terrain!!! I'll post some vids/pics in Media.
 

Stanleybb50

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Great review!

I changed the pinion on my Kraton and Senton, but either have been too lazy or too scared to on my Typhon due to exactly what you mentioned on the thread locker.... Like seriously... They include a pinion, but you have to destroy the smaller one, and/or beat up supports and the motor to get it off!

With that said - as you tell, I love Arrma none the less!

Not sure if/when I'll change pinions on the Typhon, and incoming Outcast.
 

Rich Duperbash

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Great review!

I changed the pinion on my Kraton and Senton, but either have been too lazy or too scared to on my Typhon due to exactly what you mentioned on the thread locker.... Like seriously... They include a pinion, but you have to destroy the smaller one, and/or beat up supports and the motor to get it off!

With that said - as you tell, I love Arrma none the less!

Not sure if/when I'll change pinions on the Typhon, and incoming Outcast.
It's ridiculous it keeps happening with such otherwise great products. I would never want to use that pinion after the full on assault needed to pry, pull, and essentially burn off! At least now I know to use heat sooner, took 2 tries, but literally had to be melt gobs off before it would move, would have melted center diff case had I not fully removed it first, leaving just motor and mount. Going to message Arrma before someone gets hurt prying/heating...etc.
 

kalosB

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Great information, I was hoping on doing some pinion swaps OOtB box I guess I'll hold off based on this. Thanks guys.
 

Rich Duperbash

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Great information, I was hoping on doing some pinion swaps OOtB box I guess I'll hold off based on this. Thanks guys.
We're just venting, it's a hit and miss issue/problem. I wanted to change mine because I like my bashing my way fast and hard while keeping temps in check, like to experiment until I find what I like. I switched to Permatex Blue Gel myself for locker a while back because I too have over applied liquid locker and had to destroy a pinion to get it off. Don't be discouraged to make your ride how you want it! Just use a heat gun or soldering iron if needed. Just frustrating to have to deal with. I'm extremely careful now to only apply on the threads so no locker touches the motor shaft. I apply mine with a flattened tooth pick while grub is upright resting on Allen tool then insert. I'm sure everyone does stuff a bit different.
 

Rich Duperbash

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You know something is tight when you have to use automotive tools for RC! That's cool.
 

Rich Duperbash

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It does get frustrating, makes me ask myself "am I doing something wrong here" no it's just gobs of thread lock and very tight tolerances. My motor mount is also fairly knicked up now, but did getterdun.
 

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I learned a while back to use a soldering tip to heat up the screw heads on these RTR builds. I even used a small soldering torch on the motor mount screws, that's what it took to heat the locktite enough to get it to easily remove the screws.
 

Rich Duperbash

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I learned a while back to use a soldering tip to heat up the screw heads on these RTR builds. I even used a small soldering torch on the motor mount screws, that's what it took to heat the locktite enough to get it to easily remove the screws.
Nitroman you are so right. I did that with my Typhons, but was tired and didn't think to use iron on motor mount screws with the Outcast, would have been much easier on the car and my wrists. Working smarter is better than working harder.
 

NITROMAN2000

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Once you get the wheels off remove some material from inside the hub where the screw goes through. I used a small drum sander. I've read some people use a sharp exacto knife.
 

AT06

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Once you get the wheels off remove some material from inside the hub where the screw goes through. I used a small drum sander. I've read some people use a sharp exacto knife.
Sharp modelling knife is exactly how I did it. Why they can't do it in the factory I don't know.
 

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