Talion Overheating Issue

[JerryBoor]

I am having an overheating issue with both ESC and motors on my Outcast and Talion. Outcast is stock running speed pinion and has a cheap cooling fan on the motor. The Talion is running Castle MM2 with 2200KV motor, speed pinion and cooling fan as well. Last thing I can think of is diff oil is getting old. I have been procrastinating the change for a few weeks. I am somewhere between 20-25 batteries through each car. Can this be my overheating issue.

 

[vpr5793]

First thing I would do is check for binding in the drivetrain (all bearings, all differentials, and all outdrives. Check for crooked driveshafts as well if the trucks have been in accidents.) While you're at it, check the motor bearings as well, and check for any junk in the motor case that might be binding on the rotor.

If that checks out, it might be environmental. The speed pinions do put additional stress on the motors which causes more heat. I don't know what settings are available in the BLX system, but if you have access to a Castle Link Programmer, you can drop the timing and punch control on the Castle MM2 ESC to reduce heat a little bit.

 

[jkflow]

Need a bit more info.
Type of driving? Road/dirt/grass?
Pinion size?
What do you consider overheat? and what are ambient temps?

 

[jondilly1974]

Yes an open diff could cause this. You aren’t getting the power to the ground and are over working the electronics to compensate

 

[JerryBoor]

I am still using the stock diff oil, 100k center, 50k front and rear. I do mainly dirt track, grass, and road racing. Lots of dirt spin outs and street drifting with the Talion. I did change to smaller tires on the Outcast, Minokawas from the Kraton 4s. I don't like the Backflips with the type of driving I do. The Talion is still running the stock Katars. Talion is running the 20T pinion I think, and the Outcast is 15 or 16. Whatever came as the optional pinion in the box. There is no binding in drivetrain dogbones all straight and clear. Tires spin pretty freely, so I don't think it's wheel bearings. I spray the bearing and wheels with WD40 every 4-5 runs. The front tires balloon on acceleration on both cars. I think heavier center diff fluid is recommended to help with that. Don't know what other info I can give.

The Outcast temps were about 140-160 on the ESC next to the motor inputs, Motor was 160-190 (not terrible) around the motor can next to the pinion output. The Talion temps were about the same on ESC and 180-210 on the motor (way to HOT)

 

[jkflow]

Sounds like its a gearing issue only, reduce your pinion size for bashing.
Diff oil won't do much for motor temps but does help with tires ballooning and diff temps.

If all your drivetrain is smooth that is the only thing left in the equation.
If you did get your car wet, might want to check your motor bearings as well, maybe they are an issue.

 

[JerryBoor]

Another weird thing. Last week the temps were a little lower. I put on the cooling fan, ran it again this week, maybe 10 degrees warmer ambient, and the motor temp spiked from 180-210. 210 with the cooling fan. Something is weird. My main type of driving is speed racing in the dirt and grass. What options do I have with keeping speeds up if I go smaller pinion?

 

[Rav3n]

Another weird thing. Last week the temps were a little lower. I put on the cooling fan, ran it again this week, maybe 10 degrees warmer ambient, and the motor temp spiked from 180-210. 210 with the cooling fan. Something is weird. My main type of driving is speed racing in the dirt and grass. What options do I have with keeping speeds up if I go smaller pinion?

What cooking fan are you using for the motor?

Are you sure the cooling can on the esc is functioning properly?

 

[adidas303]

Yup sounds like a gearing issues as @jkflow states. Those pinion gears are for the rig to make a couple fast runs and then bring in. Not at all for bashing through a battery pack. Specially trying to speed bash. There is paperwork in the box that specifically states this so you don't have these issues. You might be able to get away with one or 2 tooth gear up before heat becomes a problem again.

 

[JerryBoor]

It's a cheap Castle cooling fan. Plastic arms that go around about 1/2 of the motor and tie straps to secure it. It does turn on as soon as I activate the receiver under power.