Outcast "Packing" batteries

[SrC]

Waste of money just for bashing. Money better spent elsewhere on your rig.

AND, they are NOT batteries. They are Capacitors designed to keep ripple volts low for speed running.
Brown Outs have nothing to do with this equation. Does any one even know what a brown out is????
NOT.
It occurs in the BEC circuit.
Its funny that some think speed running is just running their rig fast.

 

[Ari33]

Brown Outs have nothing to do with this equation. Does any one even know what a brown out is????
NOT.
It occurs in the BEC circuit.

...which powers your receiver and servo.

I don't know if its a thing/problem with surface RC but in my world of planes, quads etc ripple can and has caused problems with them.

See http://robots.freehostia.com/Emc/Bec.html

 

[SrC]

Cap packs(in a ripple killer application) are not designed to mitigate Brownouts.
Ripple killer cap packs are wired differently( to the ESC's +/-) compared to Caps designed to prevent brown outs.(plugged into the BEC circuit/Rx).
If you are getting brown outs, you have BEC issues. (overloaded or failed, or RX interference issues) Distinctly different applications.

 

[Ari33]

Cap packs(in a ripple killer application) are not designed to mitigate Brownouts.
Ripple killer cap packs are wired differently( to the ESC's +/-) compared to Caps designed to prevent brown outs.(plugged into the BEC circuit/Rx).
If you are getting brown outs, you have BEC issues. (overloaded or failed, or RX interference issues) Distinctly different applications.

Whether wired in parallel or series (if thats what you are talking about..) the capacitance is still there and the only real use for it is for voltage smoothing, regardless of its intended purpose.
If you look at just about every single esc on the market you will see caps on the V in.. and their purpose is to reduce ripple.

If you are talking about a capacitance on the load side of the bec then yes I agree that it can also have a use there

However AC frequencies/ripple can also be injected and get through from the load side of a BEC and that can affect the BEC working properly... which can lead to a brown out... and/or servo jitter. Please see my previous link.
http://robots.freehostia.com/Emc/Bec.html



I totally know the purpose of these performance cap packs is not intended for smoothing but that is the only use I can see them having.. I don't believe in their use as a performance/power booster.

If you do, please explain how it works as maybe I've overlooked something. I just cant see it.

 

[SrC]

The material you suggested reading was fairly well versed.
However, in applying basic fundamentals here in surface RC, Rx's and ESC's generally play nice together. They are Mfr'ed in this way. Sure there are anomalies with radio interference that may be attributed to freq. spikes, but those are just defects in circuitry design. Hence why I stated that brown outs are generally defective circuits. Bad BEC circuit. Or even bad antenna placement. In kitted Quads, components are not as matched to each other unlike surface ESC's/Rx's. I have friends that place caps all over to rectify a "glitch" etc. But it is a blind attempt at a fix IMHO. And there are specific FW settings to address this with Quad esc's. Quads have multiple freq. devices on board. 4 motors, multi ESC's. FPV and data transmission. Much more happening all in a small package. Surface RC is very simple by comparison.
Ripple killer Caps get installed to lower the drive side FET ripple below 10% of the lipo's total volts. AC phasing naturally causes ripple. ESC mfr's install Caps in all of their ESC's for this reason. Under normal conditions ripple is never an issue until you start pushing the envelope with 100+ MPH passes. ( for speed runs) I see a distinct and separate application for caps in these two scenarios. Whether in parallel or series. doesn't matter. Ripple and Brownouts are 2 unique issues addressed in 2 distinct ways. Caps are designed to isolate/reduce noise in a circuit in a brown out scenario. But a BEC that poor cannot be solved with a cap pack.

 

[Ari33]

The material you suggested reading was fairly well versed.
However, in applying basic fundamentals here in surface RC, Rx's and ESC's generally play nice together. They are Mfr'ed in this way. Sure there are anomalies with radio interference that may be attributed to freq. spikes, but those are just defects in circuitry design. Hence why I stated that brown outs are generally defective circuits. Bad BEC circuit. Or even bad antenna placement. In kitted Quads, components are not as matched to each other unlike surface ESC's/Rx's. I have friends that place caps all over to rectify a "glitch" etc. But it is a blind attempt at a fix IMHO. And there are specific FW settings to address this with Quad esc's. Quads have multiple freq. devices on board. 4 motors, multi ESC's. FPV and data transmission. Much more happening all in a small package. Surface RC is very simple by comparison.
Ripple killer Caps get installed to lower the drive side FET ripple below 10% of the lipo's total volts. AC phasing naturally causes ripple. ESC mfr's install Caps in all of their ESC's for this reason. Under normal conditions ripple is never an issue until you start pushing the envelope with 100+ MPH passes. ( for speed runs) I see a distinct and separate application for caps in these two scenarios. Whether in parallel or series. doesn't matter. Ripple and Brownouts are 2 unique issues addressed in 2 distinct ways. Caps are designed to isolate/reduce noise in a circuit in a brown out scenario. But a BEC that poor cannot be solved with a cap pack.

Agreed on all points.. Yes, with how crammed together everything is on quads they have had to pay a lot more attention to that issue .They even developed a digital signal protocol called Dshot (piggybacking on analogue) for quad Escs to reduce the possibility of the signal being corrupted. Loads more space on surface vehicles though as you say.. so it most likely isnt a problem that many people ever experience.

I tried to make it clear in my initial post that I was seeing ripple reduction that as the only real potential use for it.. but it appears I was unsuccesful.

 

[Abandy]

Tbh i am fresh to the electric cars and was going off what someone else in this thread had in a notorious and it seemed to go well on the video clip but how many c's etc im still trying to get my head round what would you suggest for the standard 185 blx 6s trucks its fully upgraded so a little porky ( outcast) any advice will be appreciated thank you

My Max8 came with a cap pack. Considering it's free, would you still just leave it in the box? I didn't bother with it so far, but this thread reminded me..

I'm using the ESC in a SWB Truck (MT410), so no wild speeds.

I'm not sure those are the best choice. Did you deliberately go for a 2P pack?
You don't need even half of that C-Rating. And I suspect having twice as many cells will not help in the durability department.

?????

Ive been reading about the

If its within your budget when the time comes, I can recommend this charger SkyRC T200

Evening mate ive read about the sky charger you mentioned and for the extra £ 27 being it can charge 2 at once makes good sense so im gonna order one of those and get it sent to work as if any more RC stuff comes to my house address the wife is gonna go ape ????as you know im a beginner and don't quite get the c rating thing in the battery department but was impressed with the way the notorious went on those rapids in the video clip im not to fussed about max speed but want enough power to control it in the air and not be changing batteries after 10 mins so i need some help guys ......?? thanks to you all for your much needed assitance can drive the car pretty confidently as ysed to run nitro but this elecric stuff i need some schooling !!??!!

 

[Ari33]

Tbh i am fresh to the electric cars and was going off what someone else in this thread had in a notorious and it seemed to go well on the video clip but how many c's etc im still trying to get my head round what would you suggest for the standard 185 blx 6s trucks its fully upgraded so a little porky ( outcast) any advice will be appreciated thank you


Ive been reading about the

Evening mate ive read about the sky charger you mentioned and for the extra £ 27 being it can charge 2 at once makes good sense so im gonna order one of those and get it sent to work as if any more RC stuff comes to my house address the wife is gonna go ape ????as you know im a beginner and don't quite get the c rating thing in the battery department but was impressed with the way the notorious went on those rapids in the video clip im not to fussed about max speed but want enough power to control it in the air and not be changing batteries after 10 mins so i need some help guys ......?? thanks to you all for your much needed assitance can drive the car pretty confidently as ysed to run nitro but this elecric stuff i need some schooling !!??!!

First of all.. Nearly all the advertised C ratings are grossly exagerated by the manufacturers. Mainly because they know they will sell more than their competitors if they advertise them as being higher.

The C rating is a measure of a Lipos discharge rate in amps. The higher it is, the more amps it can release at a continuous rate with low voltage sag or much heat and there is also a peak C rating usually over a 10s period.


The higher the better but only up to a point.. higher C Lipos will heat up less during use and will therefore typically last longer. They are also typically heavier though and so if your RC only draws 80A peak and you are using a true 50C 5000mAh 250A capable lipo you are carrying a fair bit of unnecessary weight if only using less than a third of it.

A 30C 5Ah (5000mAh) Lipo should be able to produce a theoretical 150A. (30 x 5 = 150) if its C rating was true.

Also.. If that same Lipos max charge rating is 2C, that would be 5Ah x 2 = 10A. So you would charge it at a max of 10A. I prefer to charge all my Lipos at 1C which would be 5A for that same 5000mAh Lipo.

There is loads more but I'll leave it to the others..

 

[Abandy]

First of all.. Nearly all the advertised C ratings are grossly exagerated by the manufacturers. Mainly because they know they will sell more than their competitors if they advertise them as being higher.

The C rating is a measure of a Lipos discharge rate in amps. The higher it is, the more amps it can release at a continuous rate with low voltage sag or much heat and there is also a peak C rating usually over a 10s period.


The higher the better but only up to a point.. higher C Lipos will heat up less during use and will therefore typically last longer. They are also typically heavier though and so if your RC only draws 80A peak and you are using a true 50C 5000mAh 250A capable lipo you are carrying a fair bit of unnecessary weight if only using less than a third of it.

A 30C 5Ah (5000mAh) Lipo should be able to produce a theoretical 150A. (30 x 5 = 150) if its C rating was true.

Also.. If that same Lipos max charge rating is 2C, that would be 5Ah x 2 = 10A. So you would charge it at a max of 10A. I prefer to charge all my Lipos at 1C which would be 5A for that same 5000mAh Lipo.

There is loads more but I'll leave it to the others..

Cheers ill find another lower c rating and get back on to see if iive made a good choice head is atrting to hurt ???

 

[Abandy]

If its within your budget when the time comes, I can recommend this charger SkyRC T200

Decision made re charger ?up to you mate

 

[Ari33]

Cheers ill find another lower c rating and get back on to see if iive made a good choice head is atrting to hurt ???

Higher C rating is best.. but it depends what you are putting it in, what amperage it will draw to know what C is high enough..

 

[StChalky]

Cheers ill find another lower c rating and get back on to see if iive made a good choice head is atrting to hurt ???

Don't send yourself loopy lol! No idea how inflated the C rating is on the Turnigy Rapids but, hopefully its true value is going to be plenty enough for what you need. The HD is a great battery, I run 2x3S 5000mah 60C on it and they continue to serve me well but, when I was on the look last week there was no stock in the UK, EU nor Global warehouses but, the Rapids were in stock so I gave them a shot. Surprisingly despite being considerably taller than my softpack HDs on account of the hardcase, the Rapids are a couple of grams lighter.

Unfortunately at the moment certainly in the UK there seems to be quite a lack of availability of Lipos. I was on the verge of buying some gensacearespammers but direct from Germany; even with shipping they'd have been £25 cheaper than buying from a couple of the UK based shops. But then I saw the Rapids had been released and were in stock so jumped on them.

 

[Jay R]

I'm in the U.K. I picked up a couple of Ovonic 3s 50C 7600mah hardcase batteries from Gearbest shipped out of Germany. Arrived a few days ago. I'm quite impressed by them. Excellent looking quality wires, connectors, case, etc... On the first outing in the woods in the Big Rock one lasted over an hour. That was with perhaps 700 meters worth of top speed runs across the football ground followed by 50 mins of bashing in the woods. As it was the first use, the performance should increase over the next few charges. Cost was about £45 each inc delivery.

 

[Abandy]

I'm in the U.K. I picked up a couple of Ovonic 3s 50C 7600mah hardcase batteries from Gearbest shipped out of Germany. Arrived a few days ago. I'm quite impressed by them. Excellent looking quality wires, connectors, case, etc... On the first outing in the woods in the Big Rock one lasted over an hour. That was with perhaps 700 meters worth of top speed runs across the football ground followed by 50 mins of bashing in the woods. As it was the first use, the performance should increase over the next few charges. Cost was about £45 each inc delivery.

Now thats what im talking about if i can acjieve similar running times to that ill b happy ??

First of all.. Nearly all the advertised C ratings are grossly exagerated by the manufacturers. Mainly because they know they will sell more than their competitors if they advertise them as being higher.

The C rating is a measure of a Lipos discharge rate in amps. The higher it is, the more amps it can release at a continuous rate with low voltage sag or much heat and there is also a peak C rating usually over a 10s period.


The higher the better but only up to a point.. higher C Lipos will heat up less during use and will therefore typically last longer. They are also typically heavier though and so if your RC only draws 80A peak and you are using a true 50C 5000mAh 250A capable lipo you are carrying a fair bit of unnecessary weight if only using less than a third of it.

A 30C 5Ah (5000mAh) Lipo should be able to produce a theoretical 150A. (30 x 5 = 150) if its C rating was true.

Also.. If that same Lipos max charge rating is 2C, that would be 5Ah x 2 = 10A. So you would charge it at a max of 10A. I prefer to charge all my Lipos at 1C which would be 5A for that same 5000mAh Lipo.

There is loads more but I'll leave it to the others..

Respect to you my friend i am now beginning to grasp the situation and at least now know what the rating is about, what it means and its overall effect i certainly have a better understanding of the batteries now this forum is deffo the way forward and everyine is proper helpful nice one guys ???