Outcast Picked up my first 6S

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I just bought an Outcast after getting a Kraton 4S as my first RC at the start of the summer. It looks like it is a V1 or V2, and it is kind of beat up. One of the tires is blown out, so I will need to get some new wheels before really testing it out.

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My initial impression after running it on 4S is that it is slightly slower than the K4S on the same battery, so it should move pretty well on 6S. I noticed it occasionally wouldn’t turn left, and the suspension wouldn’t rebound after pressing it down. It turned out that the previous owner cranked down on the pillow ball caps so hard that the hub wouldn’t move. Luckily, I fixed it before the servo was completely destroyed. I also cobbled together some adapters to check the two 3s batteries it came with on my charger. One was at 3.8 on all cells, and the other battery was at 3.94. The seller used those batteries to show me the car before I bought it, so hopefully that quick run didn’t cause much damage.

It is surprising how dimensionally similar the Outcast 6S is to the Kraton 4S. The wheelbase and ride height are almost the same, but the Outcast is around an inch wider. The K4S is about 8.3 lbs without battery, and the Outcast was 10.9 lbs

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Other than getting new wheels, it looks like I should shim and grease the diffs. Does anyone have recommendations for wheels, or other things to check before running it more?

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Bottom of chassis tells all,mines less than year old with probly 30ish packs thro other one is a beat up oucast parts truck

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I just bought an Outcast after getting a Kraton 4S as my first RC at the start of the summer. It looks like it is a V1 or V2, and it is kind of beat up. One of the tires is blown out, so I will need to get some new wheels before really testing it out.

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My initial impression after running it on 4S is that it is slightly slower than the K4S on the same battery, so it should move pretty well on 6S. I noticed it occasionally wouldn’t turn left, and the suspension wouldn’t rebound after pressing it down. It turned out that the previous owner cranked down on the pillow ball caps so hard that the hub wouldn’t move. Luckily, I fixed it before the servo was completely destroyed. I also cobbled together some adapters to check the two 3s batteries it came with on my charger. One was at 3.8 on all cells, and the other battery was at 3.94. The seller used those batteries to show me the car before I bought it, so hopefully that quick run didn’t cause much damage.

It is surprising how dimensionally similar the Outcast 6S is to the Kraton 4S. The wheelbase and ride height are almost the same, but the Outcast is around an inch wider. The K4S is about 8.3 lbs without battery, and the Outcast was 10.9 lbs

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Other than getting new wheels, it looks like I should shim and grease the diffs. Does anyone have recommendations for wheels, or other things to check before running it more?

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I like the stock wheels personally. I even run them on my kraton. i run 60/1m/30 in my diffs front to rear also. Look up arrma outcast exploded view and you'll see on the latest version where all it has shims. That's a good place to start. I will pull on the drive cups and if there is some wiggle room i'll add one behind the pin on the inside. I don't know about those older versions but the v4's have an o ring and a shim inside the cup/under the spur on each side, a shim between the bearing and the cups, and a big one on the ring gear side bearing when you place it in the diff case. I twist the drive cups back and forth and feel it to see if it's smooth and uniform.
 
I like the stock wheels personally. I even run them on my kraton. i run 60/1m/30 in my diffs front to rear also. Look up arrma outcast exploded view and you'll see on the latest version where all it has shims. That's a good place to start. I will pull on the drive cups and if there is some wiggle room i'll add one behind the pin on the inside. I don't know about those older versions but the v4's have an o ring and a shim inside the cup/under the spur on each side, a shim between the bearing and the cups, and a big one on the ring gear side bearing when you place it in the diff case. I twist the drive cups back and forth and feel it to see if it's smooth and uniform.

I just need to find the easiest way to order all of the shims and oils. It looks like I will have to make a shopping list after reading the parts diagram and watching some videos.
 
It looks like mine might be about half way to becoming a parts truck. Does $300 still sound like a decent price with two 3S Hoovo batteries?

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Imo if diffs all sound good an an it makes it throu a hard 6a pack yes.i just paid 300 for a senton6 v2 like yours bout same shape.hot racing diff skid plates like on bottom of mine are great .I'd get them for truck.id just replace with stock backflips,there cheap an GREAT TIRES .or you could get the 4s backflips,therea littleshortertire 6.1 compared to 6.7 of 6s .I had diff problems with with mine so I put smaller tires on it.wait till you run it on 6s.it'll wheelie till you run outa room.turn tires during wheelie an you can steer in during wheelie.NO **** GUESS MOMENTUM FROM TIRES CAN STILL STEER WITHOUT TIRES ON GROUND.GOOD TIMES

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Imo if diffs all sound good an an it makes it throu a hard 6a pack yes.i just paid 300 for a senton6 v2 like yours bout same shape.hot racing diff skid plates like on bottom of mine are great .I'd get them for truck.id just replace with stock backflips,there cheap an GREAT TIRES .or you could get the 4s backflips,therea littleshortertire 6.1 compared to 6.7 of 6s .I had diff problems with with mine so I put smaller tires on it.wait till you run it on 6s.it'll wheelie till you run outa room.turn tires during wheelie an you can steer in during wheelie.NO **** GUESS MOMENTUM FROM TIRES CAN STILL STEER WITHOUT TIRES ON GROUND.GOOD TIMES

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I thought about getting the 4S wheels, but then I thought I might loose some of the ability to go through taller grass. My K4S seems to struggle a bit if the grass is thick.
 
FYI, the stock backflips work pretty good at the grass bmx track we met at last weekend. That's what I run on my outcast 6s. I have mine wrapped with kevlar cord though to help keep them from popping off the rims or blowing out when doing backflips. You will likely want to get a motor cooler though as the constant running in grass heats up the motor quite a bit. I never ran the stock esc with the backflips there, only the blx185, but I was running wrapped trenchers on it at the time and they are heavier. Ended up switching to backflips just to try and avoid persistent diff issues. The drop in running temps was a bonus. Even with a 14T pinion though, the motor does get up to 140-150 if pushed hard throughout the run.

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I setup all my trucks to run there specifically. Gearing, tires, esc, shocks, etc. With the backflips, I won't run it on pavement though. Pretty sure my local skate park will chew them up in a single bash session. It's rough concrete.
 
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I thought about getting the 4S wheels, but then I thought I might loose some of the ability to go through taller grass. My K4S seems to struggle a bit if the grass is thick.
6s truck won't struggle at all.metal drivetrain only thing you must watch is electronics temps.higher pinion means more POWER&SPEED.tallest gear u can run an keep system cool is what do..HIGH SPEED FANS WILL LET YOU GO LITTLE HIGHER.ALL DEPENDS ON TIRE SIZE AN AMBIENT TEMPERATURE ON HOW HIGH U CAN GO.MY NOTO HAS STOCK SYSTEM W2OT AN 5.4IN THIRES WITH FANS AND IS CRAZY FAST. If you're on the throttle the front ends up in the air almost at any speed
FYI, the stock backflips work pretty good at the grass bmx track we met at last weekend. That's what I run on my outcast 6s. I have mine wrapped with kevlar cord though to help keep them from popping off the rims or blowing out when doing backflips. You will likely want to get a motor cooler though as the constant running in grass heats up the motor quite a bit. I never ran the stock esc with the backflips there, only the blx185, but I was running wrapped trenchers on it at the time and they are heavier. Ended up switching to backflips just to try and avoid persistent diff issues. The drop in running temps was a bonus. Even with a 14T pinion though, the motor does get up to 140-150 if pushed hard throughout the run.

2020-0710-Outcast-BackflipTires-wrapped-side-high.jpg


I setup all my trucks to run there specifically. Gearing, tires, esc, shocks, etc. With the backflips, I won't run it on pavement though. Pretty sure my local skate park will chew them up in a single bash session. It's rough concrete.
Is that a max6 or max8??
heres my v2 senton6 I played 300$ for.about done completely rebuilding it.almost new everything. Getting ready to spray foam new body for strength. Its what I do for a living (spray foam).putting leopard 40824082-2000kv in it.motor should arrive tomorrow then it gets 1st rip session..cant decide between max8 or max6.the 6 is like 20$ more.was wondering how well max6 fit in swb chassis
 

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It looks like mine might be about half way to becoming a parts truck. Does $300 still sound like a decent price with two 3S Hoovo batteries?

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I put this vinyl chassis protector on the bottom of this truck I haven't ran it yet so I don't know how good it's going to work but I got a build thread on this truck so check it out later this week.have alot of pics and will have pics of after 1st run

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PERFECT PIC.THANK YOU FOR MAKING MY Decision easy.max6 it will be.looks like a tight fit.could you tell a major difference in power from blx185 to max6.im running quicrun 150a now.bout same as blx185.
PERFECT PIC.THANK YOU FOR MAKING MY Decision easy.max6 it will be.looks like a tight fit.could you tell a major difference in power from blx185 to max6.im running quicrun 150a now.bout same as blx185.
How did you go from 4mm bullet to 6.5????adapter
 
PERFECT PIC.THANK YOU FOR MAKING MY Decision easy.max6 it will be.looks like a tight fit.could you tell a major difference in power from blx185 to max6.im running quicrun 150a now.bout same as blx185.

How did you go from 4mm bullet to 6.5????adapter
It's hard to describe... it just does a better job at supplying the power. Less of a light switch type feel. Not as smooth as my MMX/2200kv sensored in my savage flux, but less chatter than the blx185 had for some reason. It also runs a bit cooler, but not a lot. I got the max6 in the hopes that I could gear up 1 tooth (and supply 7.2V to my servo/fans), but where I ran and the tires I had (3.8 trenchers), 14T was too much still. I could run longer, but it would still thermal on me after about 14 minutes. The BLX185 would thermal on me around 9 minutes with 14T and occasionally with 13T. The max6 never thermalled after dropping to 13T. I now run 14T with backflips and it's a beast.

I can't recall if the motor wires had anything but the 6.5mm on them or not, but I did put 4mm on them to the blx2050kv and had the 6.5 on the other end to the esc. I did the same with the one in my ERBEv2, also running the max6/blx2050kv.

The max6 esc's came with leads like these for the motor:
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On my ERBEv2, I had 6.5MM leads already for the motor I had in it, so I just cut them and soldered on 4mm and still have the original wires from the max6 in the box somewhere.
 
Imo big tires work drivetrain an system hard.these 4.60 mx m2 don't take much to turn.THEY SPIN FAST AN HARD WITH 21T WITHOUT OVERHEATING. I DO RUN THE SAME HEATSINK AN ROCKET FANS THOU AND POWERHOBBY 35MM ESC FAN TO THINGS UNDER CONTROL. THE LEO 4082 WILL BE WORKING QUIKRUN 150A TO HARD THOU,AN I WANT 7.4 BEC TOO.ILL ORDER MAX6 FRIDAY
 
I like the stock wheels personally. I even run them on my kraton. i run 60/1m/30 in my diffs front to rear also. Look up arrma outcast exploded view and you'll see on the latest version where all it has shims. That's a good place to start. I will pull on the drive cups and if there is some wiggle room i'll add one behind the pin on the inside. I don't know about those older versions but the v4's have an o ring and a shim inside the cup/under the spur on each side, a shim between the bearing and the cups, and a big one on the ring gear side bearing when you place it in the diff case. I twist the drive cups back and forth and feel it to see if it's smooth and uniform.

I just took the rear diff out, and both drive cups will move at least 1mm back and forth. There was one shim pushing the ring gear toward the pinion.
 
Since you will likely need to order some stuff to get the Outcast up to snuff, I'd order a set of front/rear alloy chassis braces. Pretty much any brand is better than stock plastic. A few big jumps or a lawn dart landing on the front or rear tends to snap them and tweak the chassis as well as a center bone in the process.

I have hot racing, but M2C makes nice ones as well.

The front one is the same for the kraton/outcast/notorious/typhon, but the rear one is shorter for the outcast/notorious/typhon. They all use the same chassis deck.
 
Since you will likely need to order some stuff to get the Outcast up to snuff, I'd order a set of front/rear alloy chassis braces. Pretty much any brand is better than stock plastic. A few big jumps or a lawn dart landing on the front or rear tends to snap them and tweak the chassis as well as a center bone in the process.

I have hot racing, but M2C makes nice ones as well.

The front one is the same for the kraton/outcast/notorious/typhon, but the rear one is shorter for the outcast/notorious/typhon. They all use the same chassis deck.
I made up team lawn dart racing stickers ?

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