Picked up my Kraton 8s

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mjscharlotte

Member
Messages
66
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51
Location
Charlotte, North Carolina
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 8S
  2. Typhon 6s
Hey guys,
I picked up my brand new Kraton 8s this morning and have some questions for you guys that are more familiar with the vehicle. I have the Xmaxx and I know its a completely different vehicle but it seems a helluva lot faster - both acceleration and top end. I had the hobby shop adjust the ESC and I have put in a 22t pinion and kept the spur gear factory in the Kraton. It also seems like the brakes aren't working like they should. I realize that its a big/heavy truck but the way everyone is praising and saying that this thing is a beast - I just don't see it. Is it something that i'm missing in the settings of the ESC or maybe something that I can adjust on the App on my Iphone. I welcome all suggestions - i'm looking forward to bashing this thing.
 
You need more pinion (25T) and turn up the brakes and punch.
 
Hey guys,
I picked up my brand new Kraton 8s this morning and have some questions for you guys that are more familiar with the vehicle. I have the Xmaxx and I know its a completely different vehicle but it seems a helluva lot faster - both acceleration and top end. I had the hobby shop adjust the ESC and I have put in a 22t pinion and kept the spur gear factory in the Kraton. It also seems like the brakes aren't working like they should. I realize that its a big/heavy truck but the way everyone is praising and saying that this thing is a beast - I just don't see it. Is it something that i'm missing in the settings of the ESC or maybe something that I can adjust on the App on my Iphone. I welcome all suggestions - i'm looking forward to bashing this thing.

Yeah I switched radios and went up to a 27 or 28tooth pinion. Some diff fluid changes 2.5 million in the front, 20 million center and stock 1 million rear. M2c racing chassis and shock pistons and front brace. I also changed to a max5 and 1100kv. Good luck it’s a awesome rig. Bash on ??
 
You will want to make sure the punch is at max. I think its 5 but not sure. If you are staying with the stock motor you can run a 27t pinion if you stay out of high grass and no mile long full throttle passes. Summertime heat may require a 25 or 23t. Buy a thermeter and see what temps you get. Turn off the AVC at the receiver, its in the manual how to do it. Its a waste on this vehicle imo. That will be about as good as it gets with the stock motor. the brakes are at 37% from the factory and are sufficient for me to do some really nice lawn darting. Maybe when the hobby shop set up the esc they changed it. On that note you will want to get to know your way around the esc program and the receiver, set your end points and binding process...its all in the manual and not too bad to learn. When things get hosed up you wont need to run to the hobby shop.

I'm using the hobbystar 5692 1120kv motor with the stock esc with a 30t pinion. Its a good bit faster and will wheelie without any trouble. Atm I do not see a reason to change to the max5. Everyone seems to do it but unless mine makes smoke, in this financial climate I'm not spending 200$ on it...In the center diff I'm running silicone ear plugs from cvs. They cost 5$ while the 25million (or what ever diff fluid) is 25$ plus shipping. The ear plugs don't completely lock the diff but have a little give. I tried 2.5 million, it was too thin. Good luck with the truck, hope you get to like it better.
jim
 
You will want to make sure the punch is at max. I think its 5 but not sure. If you are staying with the stock motor you can run a 27t pinion if you stay out of high grass and no mile long full throttle passes. Summertime heat may require a 25 or 23t. Buy a thermeter and see what temps you get. Turn off the AVC at the receiver, its in the manual how to do it. Its a waste on this vehicle imo. That will be about as good as it gets with the stock motor. the brakes are at 37% from the factory and are sufficient for me to do some really nice lawn darting. Maybe when the hobby shop set up the esc they changed it. On that note you will want to get to know your way around the esc program and the receiver, set your end points and binding process...its all in the manual and not too bad to learn. When things get hosed up you wont need to run to the hobby shop.

I'm using the hobbystar 5692 1120kv motor with the stock esc with a 30t pinion. Its a good bit faster and will wheelie without any trouble. Atm I do not see a reason to change to the max5. Everyone seems to do it but unless mine makes smoke, in this financial climate I'm not spending 200$ on it...In the center diff I'm running silicone ear plugs from cvs. They cost 5$ while the 25million (or what ever diff fluid) is 25$ plus shipping. The ear plugs don't completely lock the diff but have a little give. I tried 2.5 million, it was too thin. Good luck with the truck, hope you get to like it better.
jim
Thanks so much for the input. I'm definitely going to submerse myself in the manual today to learn the electronics and such. In regards to the silicone ear plugs - which ones do I get? The Hobbyshop said to change the punch and braking etc.. I need to buy some module thing that plugs into the ESC. They didn't have one in stock but it sounds like I don't need that because I can do it using the transmitter. Am I correct?
 
Thanks so much for the input. I'm definitely going to submerse myself in the manual today to learn the electronics and such. In regards to the silicone ear plugs - which ones do I get? The Hobbyshop said to change the punch and braking etc.. I need to buy some module thing that plugs into the ESC. They didn't have one in stock but it sounds like I don't need that because I can do it using the transmitter. Am I correct?
You do it though the program button on the ESC. You need to read the manual in order to figure it out. Can't help you with the exact earplugs. I use the Traxxas 20mil.
 
The ear plugs are the silicone type swimmers use. They are soft and quishy and can be pulled apart. Not the foam kind. You don’t need to change the diff fluid to this set up, but it does help and might be something to do down the road. Maybe get familiar with the car and some tools together and tackle that another day. Getting those silver screws out of the dif housing is not for the faint of heart. I broke two and consider myself “experienced...”. A little butane torch and/or solder iron will help with the motor mount, pinion and diff housing screws to soften the loctite they use.

As stated above, follow the flow cart in the manual for the esc. It’s not too bad. The card makes it easier but is not needed. If you get in a jam stop back here.
 
Thanks so much for the input. I'm definitely going to submerse myself in the manual today to learn the electronics and such. In regards to the silicone ear plugs - which ones do I get? The Hobbyshop said to change the punch and braking etc.. I need to buy some module thing that plugs into the ESC. They didn't have one in stock but it sounds like I don't need that because I can do it using the transmitter. Am I correct?

Yeah you can program the ESC using the button. I ended up checking and setting my punch setting in this video at 8:30 into the video.

You can also use the HOBBYWING programming card if you have one.

I would spend the time getting it setup to your preferences. The truck is not forgiving. lol and parts aren’t cheap. Bash on ??
 
Yes like the advice you have got i can also say the same, it’s a must to change the center diff oil, pinion and set the punch up to 4 or 5. Easy cheap solution to get maximum out of the stock system. With that setup it get plenty speed, better air control and it also doing some wheelies.

Since you already using the hobby shop to fix things for you, it would be a good idea to let them get the hassle with all the loctite on the center diff screws :) That was the only screws that i struggled with on my truck. Good luck.
 
Thanks to everyone for their help. I spent about 3 hours this morning trying to calibrate everything - with no luck. I ended up taking it back to the hobby shop where I bought it and after 2 1/2 hours and multiple calls to Horizon hobby tech line we found out it was a bad receiver and ESC. They installed a new receiver and ESC and now it’s running like it should be. This dang thing is gonna be FUN!!! Oh - I also got the Bluetooth module “working” but I’ll have to tinker with it a bit. I think it’s reading the top speed wrong ?
 

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Thanks to everyone for their help. I spent about 3 hours this morning trying to calibrate everything - with no luck. I ended up taking it back to the hobby shop where I bought it and after 2 1/2 hours and multiple calls to Horizon hobby tech line we found out it was a bad receiver and ESC. They installed a new receiver and ESC and now it’s running like it should be. This dang thing is gonna be FUN!!! Oh - I also got the Bluetooth module “working” but I’ll have to tinker with it a bit. I think it’s reading the top speed wrong ?

The top speed is wrong because it’s being calculated rather than being measured live (like a GPS). There’s no GPS in the receiver. You’ll have to configure your setup in the menu of the app, car + pinion + spur. That should give more accurate estimated. A stock 8S has a top speed of about 64 km/u, so keep playing with it until the speedometer tops at ~ 64 km/u
 
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