Pics of OVER POWERED RC cars!! 💥 💥

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Bigrock/Typhon 6s, soon to be Kratonized.:love: Check out my build thread.
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Okay fine, I’ll play along 😁

Infraction phase 1) 12s “parking lot basher”

Flier 12s 250a esc w/ bec combo ‘box’

4076 1350kv w/ dual 80 mm fans (currently at 56,000 rpms under load 3.5v x12)

Shaved motor mount for 10t pinion on 46 spur; 4.6:1 internal reduction, 12.9 overall gear reduction. Top speed… 48 mph!! 😂

(4) 3s ~4500 mah packs at nearly 3lbs combined!! 🤦🏻‍♂️

This test bed was to test the dark waters of high voltage Flier esc. It works, it’s unrefined in operations, think very early early brushless esc days… but worse!!! 😂

But seriously once you’ve tasted higher voltage efficiency and potential, it’s like a drug! 🥰 (next steps 14-16-18-22s trials)

Target was to make a cool efficient running 90 mph all day parking lot basher. 100k rpms 2ndary (now you can understand the formula of short gearing for light & efficient loads and higher voltage to extend rpm band to get back to speed, like early Honda motor sports philosophy, crack vtec!! 🤣)

When geared 22/46 ran 7-8 consecutive passes at 95 mph ambient temps 80, motor ~105, esc 90, gpm tires 110!

Also included of 2 motors that didn’t make the ‘cut’! 😂

(left) Stock 4076 2050kv bulging rotor at 10s, 71k rpms under load (lucky caught it on a battery change as I felt the drag/binding free rolling test)

(right) unknown used/rusted 4068 2000kv that exploded and locked up at 9s, 63k rpms under load.

Next steps 22s esc and “100k rated” TP Power SCM motor, further gear reduction… will be an Infraction Type R 🤪

40CB2F8B-9614-4FFD-A58A-4E535A139D25.jpeg


2138F433-96C8-48D5-A987-EA67D7800792.jpeg
 
Okay fine, I’ll play along 😁

Infraction phase 1) 12s “parking lot basher”

Flier 12s 250a esc w/ bec combo ‘box’

4076 1350kv w/ dual 80 mm fans (currently at 56,000 rpms under load 3.5v x12)

Shaved motor mount for 10t pinion on 46 spur; 4.6:1 internal reduction, 12.9 overall gear reduction. Top speed… 48 mph!! 😂

(4) 3s ~4500 mah packs at nearly 3lbs combined!! 🤦🏻‍♂️

This test bed was to test the dark waters of high voltage Flier esc. It works, it’s unrefined in operations, think very early early brushless esc days… but worse!!! 😂

But seriously once you’ve tasted higher voltage efficiency and potential, it’s like a drug! 🥰 (next steps 14-16-18-22s trials)

Target was to make a cool efficient running 90 mph all day parking lot basher. 100k rpms 2ndary (now you can understand the formula of short gearing for light & efficient loads and higher voltage to extend rpm band to get back to speed, like early Honda motor sports philosophy, crack vtec!! 🤣)

When geared 22/46 ran 7-8 consecutive passes at 95 mph ambient temps 80, motor ~105, esc 90, gpm tires 110!

Also included of 2 motors that didn’t make the ‘cut’! 😂

(left) Stock 4076 2050kv bulging rotor at 10s, 71k rpms under load (lucky caught it on a battery change as I felt the drag/binding free rolling test)

(right) unknown used/rusted 4068 2000kv that exploded and locked up at 9s, 63k rpms under load.

Next steps 22s esc and “100k rated” TP Power SCM motor, further gear reduction… will be an Infraction Type R 🤪

View attachment 175818

View attachment 175819
I recommend qse 8mm connectors and 8mm bullets for motor. You may end up ruining batteries if you don’t.
 
I recommend qse 8mm connectors and 8mm bullets for motor. You may end up ruining batteries if you don’t.
Hah! I knew somebody was going to comment on my ‘deans’.

First I know how to make a very good high surface contact solder joint on those tabs.

2nd I’ve watt metered deans up to 120A sustained and 200a bursts! Guess what gets warm, the 12 awg wire! On both batt and motor side (and guess what is copper a good conductor of? Heat! All coming from the motor side!)

Then with a short gearing and high voltage for the same power output, guess what naturally COMES DOWN unlike the XLX2 camp? … AMPs!!

My setup is mostly likely only running 60-70 amps (need a new watt meter since old one broke spiking stupid low voltage, high amp setups)

No need for QS8’s in this setup as having any add’l resistance in the circuit does not harm batteries, in fact if anything it’ll act like a safety buffer for it.

Please know what your talking about electrically before spreading misinformation.
 
Hah! I knew somebody was going to comment on my ‘deans’.

First I know how to make a very good high surface contact solder joint on those tabs.

2nd I’ve watt metered deans up to 120A sustained and 200a bursts! Guess what gets warm, the 12 awg wire! On both batt and motor side (and guess what is copper a good conductor of? Heat! All coming from the motor side!)

Then with a short gearing and high voltage for the same power output, guess what naturally COMES DOWN unlike the XLX2 camp? … AMPs!!

My setup is mostly likely only running 60-70 amps (need a new watt meter since old one broke spiking stupid low voltage, high amp setups)

No need for QS8’s in this setup as having any add’l resistance in the circuit does not harm batteries, in fact if anything it’ll act like a safety buffer for it.

Please know what your talking about electrically before spreading misinformation.
I beleive the wires are getting hot because they are being restricted. It is also always better to not limit the system by connectors, just my thoughts. 🤷‍♂️
 
Hah! I knew somebody was going to comment on my ‘deans’.

First I know how to make a very good high surface contact solder joint on those tabs.

2nd I’ve watt metered deans up to 120A sustained and 200a bursts! Guess what gets warm, the 12 awg wire! On both batt and motor side (and guess what is copper a good conductor of? Heat! All coming from the motor side!)

Then with a short gearing and high voltage for the same power output, guess what naturally COMES DOWN unlike the XLX2 camp? … AMPs!!

My setup is mostly likely only running 60-70 amps (need a new watt meter since old one broke spiking stupid low voltage, high amp setups)

No need for QS8’s in this setup as having any add’l resistance in the circuit does not harm batteries, in fact if anything it’ll act like a safety buffer for it.

Please know what your talking about electrically before spreading misinformation.
With that tiny motor running such voltage it will likely burn first before it can pull enough amps to desolder the dean indeed. As long as you keep the gearing low it should indeed be fine. I am curious how the SCM motor will hold up. It's designed for 100k rpm 10s bursts, it's not rated for many (shorter) bursts, so who knows...

My 5840L-1460kv does pull a lot of amps on 8S

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With that tiny motor running such voltage it will likely burn first before it can pull enough amps to desolder the dean indeed. As long as you keep the gearing low it should indeed be fine. I am curious how the SCM motor will hold up. It's designed for 100k rpm 10s bursts, it's not rated for many (shorter) bursts, so who knows...

My 5840L-1460kv does pull a lot of amps on 8S

Well I don’t think the motor will burn for as long as I’ve been monitoring temps between passes.

The most stressed I’ve seen was 26t and I already knew the gearing was steep with the seriously weakened brake feel but I got to 90’s and it wasn’t driving straight so I aborted twice and checked temps and good thing bc I saw 150’s already.

… but at the end of the day I’d rather have short gearing and wide rpm band for any type of bashing on any day of the week short notice to come out and play. I’ll come back to triple digits when I extend the rpm again, if these darn rotors will hold!! 😂

I am wondering as I reach 75-100v, what is the insulation rating of that wire tarnish coating so as not to jump the insulator, so to speak. For reference silicone sheath is rated to contain 600v.

Does anybody know the rates insulation voltage for the birds nest of wires that is wrapped around the stator?

And to answer the other question, wires and all non-superconducting materials generate losses, some more than others.

Before connectors become a concern I would start with the most resistive value, the motor, eg thing long strands of copper wire losses. This is evident by being the most hottest part of the circuit and needing cooling measures! Get the best high quality efficient motor you can. Then work your way to wire gage and length then connectors.
 
Well I don’t think the motor will burn for as long as I’ve been monitoring temps between passes.

The most stressed I’ve seen was 26t and I already knew the gearing was steep with the seriously weakened brake feel but I got to 90’s and it wasn’t driving straight so I aborted twice and checked temps and good thing bc I saw 150’s already.

… but at the end of the day I’d rather have short gearing and wide rpm band for any type of bashing on any day of the week short notice to come out and play. I’ll come back to triple digits when I extend the rpm again, if these darn rotors will hold!! 😂

I am wondering as I reach 75-100v, what is the insulation rating of that wire tarnish coating so as not to jump the insulator, so to speak. For reference silicone sheath is rated to contain 600v.

Does anybody know the rates insulation voltage for the birds nest of wires that is wrapped around the stator?

And to answer the other question, wires and all non-superconducting materials generate losses, some more than others.

Before connectors become a concern I would start with the most resistive value, the motor, eg thing long strands of copper wire losses. This is evident by being the most hottest part of the circuit and needing cooling measures! Get the best high quality efficient motor you can. Then work your way to wire gage and length then connectors.
I think arcing is a 'high' voltage problem and in many ways 100v is still low voltage.

When upping those voltages, concerns would be:
  • motor kv/standing start amp spikes/ rotor rpm limit
  • Winding thinkness (keep it on D winds)
  • Ripple control (reason why the XLX2 is maxed at 8S)
  • 'Smoothness' of the esc
  • ...
Shouldn't be high jacking this topic on 'pics of', i suggested you start your how voltage buildlog. It's an interesting topic...
 
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