Kraton Pinion keeps moving

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Just remember this isn't "standard TL" i know he calls it TL in vid lol
I know exactly what it is. 👍 I have this. It is NOT new.🤷‍♂️
I have so much of the LockTite/Permatex products. Used on my scale cars for years and at the Dealer.
I also wrench and custom build Bicycles. My other more expensive Hobby. I use 680 on my the Bottom bracket of my bikes for press fit hubs. Very familiar with it.
For RC not necessary.
@M240i_bandit, It seems you are NOT comfortable around setcscrews,, Thread locker and torqueing them yet. Proper Handled Hex drivers are your friend. (MIP) Thread locker is Not Retaining Compound for starters. I change out pinions frequently, testing different Ratios and never have problems with them.
Improperly installing a pinion, with bad tools and neglect overall will cause a loose pinion.
If you prefer to install a setscrew looser than it should be because you fear "over tightening and rounding out the hex", and use compound or TL on the shaft to compensate, that is absolutely incorrect. 🤷‍♂️
FWIW, running in the wet will rust out the pinion and grub screws. May be part of the problem. IDK. They are consumable parts. Best to use new setscrews every so often. Grind the bottom of setscrews a bit for a better bite at the shaft. Keep them in bulk in your tool box.
There is a difference between quality Upgrade pinions and the cheap Arrma's FWIW. You pay for what you get with these.
(Think Tekno, RRP, Saga.)
 
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It is not new to you and I. You seem to know much regarding RC.👍 I don't doubt that at all. :)
It is one option. Yes.
One I don't recommend. At least to a newbe. Because it is just a band-aid to a problem due to user error while wrenching. Which this appears to me.🤷‍♂️
Just my opinion.:cool:
 
It is not new to you and I. You seem to know much regarding RC.👍 I don't doubt that at all. :)
Lols :D far from it, 1st rc was bought in jan this year, i did do a shed load of research though on most aspects of rc before getting one though.. Suppose most experience comes from 30+years in engineering and maintenance, hobbies like downhill mtb, MX etc. but thnx anyway :D
 
Yeah it doesn't take much to see you got this stuff down. 👍
You help out a lot of members here.👍
:cool:
 
I know exactly what it is. 👍 I have this. It is NOT new.🤷‍♂️
I have so much of the LockTite/Permatex products. Used on my scale cars for years and at the Dealer.
I also wrench and custom build Bicycles. My other more expensive Hobby. I use 680 on my the Bottom bracket of my bikes for press fit hubs. Very familiar with it.
For RC not necessary.
@M240i_bandit, It seems you are NOT comfortable around setcscrews,, Thread locker and torqueing them yet. Proper Handled Hex drivers are your friend. (MIP) Thread locker is Not Retaining Compound for starters. I change out pinions frequently, testing different Ratios and never have problems with them.
Improperly installing a pinion, with bad tools and neglect overall will cause a loose pinion.
If you prefer to install a setscrew looser than it should be because you fear "over tightening and rounding out the hex", and use compound or TL on the shaft to compensate, that is absolutely incorrect. 🤷‍♂️
FWIW, running in the wet will rust out the pinion and grub screws. May be part of the problem. IDK. They are consumable parts. Best to use new setscrews every so often. Grind the bottom of setscrews a bit for a better bite at the shaft. Keep them in bulk in your tool box.
There is a difference between quality Upgrade pinions and the cheap Arrma's FWIW. You pay for what you get with these.
(Think Tekno, RRP, Saga.)

I mean you say it's absolutely incorrect as have others here but from my previous posts in short I'm calling BS on that advice because other than a few people just saying 'it's not the correct thing to do' I'm yet to actually be told any concrete evidence as to why it's the wrong thing to do - but all the things I've stated are based on fact and empirical evidence

And all the concerns I've raised are based on the plethora of posts here and around the net of people's torment of trying to remove pinions where the grub has been rounded off/got stuck or the pinion hasn't held and ground itself into the motor mount + having experienced it first hand

So given that there's a method to prevent this from happening I really don't see the downside 🤷‍♂️ btw the only counter argument I've heard for this is that the pinion can get stuck with LT (but this was where red LT was used) - but I've proven this not an issue provided you use the correct type I.e blue or weaker (non permanent)

So other than a superstitious argument - I'm really not seeing what the concern here is guys... :ROFLMAO:

Btw I am completely comfortable with threadlocker, I've been using it for years on my Heli's and never had an issue - but the issue here isn't with the threadlocker as the grub is still locked into place, the issue here is with relying on a friction between the tip of the grub and the shaft to stop forces parallel to the shaft acting on the pinion, having a form of insurance around that can't be bad especially when no harm can come of it and the consequence of failure is a nightmare to deal with
 
^^^ That's why I recommended fresh Setscrews as needed after several removals, being consumables.. Quality 12.9 setscrews and pinions also make a difference. And also grinding down the Setscrew slightly for a better contact at the shaft's Flat.🤷‍♂️ Give retaining compound a try. May give you the insurance you want. IDK. I Never stated is was Not an option. I just never needed it. Despite having 680 in my tool box here. I don't know others that use it in this application either. Not even any LHS's. Or at the track, years past.

Good luck.:)
 
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