Kraton Pinion problems with Mamba Monster X

[Basher87]

Hey guys, I need a lil help, I just installed this on my kraton and the pinion came off during takeoff, what do I need to do or adjust to keep from happening again

 

[SrC]

Tell me what tool you are using to wrench that pinion on...... using a Hand hex driver or the garbage L wrenches?
Also, are you using Blue Thread locker on the pinion setscrew and letting it cure for 24 hours before running that motor???
IF not, then that is your problem.
Clean the setscrew and pinion in a solvent separately and use BLUE TL. let cure for 24 hours. The only way to do it.

 

[Basher87]

Tell me what tool you are using to wrench that pinion on...... using a Hand hex driver or the garbage L wrenches?
Also, are you using Blue Thread locker on the pinion setscrew and letting it cure for 24 hours before running that motor???
IF not, then that is your problem.
Clean the setscrew and pinion in a solvent separately and use BLUE TL. let cure for 24 hours. The only way to do it.

I used the (POS) Allen wrench that came with it. It wasn't hard to put on the shaft or anything.

 

[SrC]

That is your problem. Invest in a set of MIP Hand drivers or some other known quality brand. You simply cannot torque those setscrews adequately with L wrenches. They are garbage. Throw them a way. Seriously. They will strip all the screws out on you rig. The first being your pinion setscrew. Then you will be here with a thread asking how to remove a stripped out pinion. There are tons of threads here in regards to this.
Right now, you just cant get it tight enough with that L wrench.
I seriously hope you are using Blue TL.
You invested in expensive Castle gear.
Why not Invest in some quality MIP Hex drivers. Most important.

MIP Hex Driver Wrench Set, Metric (3), 1.5mm, 2.0mm, & 2.5mm #9502 |MIP Online

 

[Harriot10]

Remove the grub screw, clean everything with parts cleaner, reinstall with orange TL, use good hex set (MIP), and don't strip the grub screw. This works for me! Good luck

 

[Basher87]

That is your problem. Invest in a set of MIP Hand drivers or some other known quality brand. You simply cannot torque those setscrews adequately with L wrenches. They are garbage. Throw them a way. Seriously. They will strip all the screws out on you rig. The first being your pinion setscrew. Then you will be here with a thread asking how to remove a stripped out pinion. There are tons of threads here in regards to this.
Right now, you just cant get it tight enough with that L wrench.
I seriously hope you are using Blue TL.
You invested in expensive Castle gear.
Why not Invest in some quality MIP Hex drivers. Most important.

Well thanks for the input, I'm a newbie to the rc world, and this is my 1st Ever rc car. I'm learning as I go. Any more tips on things I should watch out for....... You are absolutely right about the screws being stripped with the L wrenche. I already had to buy a screw kit to replace 9 of them.

Remove the grub screw, clean everything with parts cleaner, reinstall with orange TL, use good hex set (MIP), and don't strip the grub screw. This works for me! Good luck

The grub screw is that tiny one that screws into the pinion on the shaft right???

 

[Harriot10]

Well thanks for the input, I'm a newbie to the rc world, and this is my 1st Ever rc car. I'm learning as I go. Any more tips on things I should watch out for....... You are absolutely right about the screws being stripped with the L wrenche. I already had to buy a screw kit to replace 9 of them.

The grub screw is that tiny one that screws into the pinion on the shaft right???

Yes!

 

[SrC]

No problem. You will learn fast. AF has much info here for you. A great hobby. Baby steps.
The only stupid question is one you don't ask.
Great that you came here first.
Welcome to AF.

 

[slick2500]

Well thanks for the input, I'm a newbie to the rc world, and this is my 1st Ever rc car. I'm learning as I go. Any more tips on things I should watch out for....... You are absolutely right about the screws being stripped with the L wrenche. I already had to buy a screw kit to replace 9 of them.

The grub screw is that tiny one that screws into the pinion on the shaft right???

Use heat to remove any screw going into metal, a soldering iron works good for this, just set the tip on the screw for about a minute or so until you can smell the threadlock cooking. Don't forget that the screw is going to be hot so you don't burn yourself.

 

[Basher87]

No problem. You will learn fast. AF has much info here for you. A great hobby. Baby steps.
The only stupid question is one you don't ask.
Great that you came here first.
Welcome to

No problem. You will learn fast. AF has much info here for you. A great hobby. Baby steps.
The only stupid question is one you don't ask.
Great that you came here first.
Welcome to AF.

Do I need permanent TL (Red) or Removable TL (Blue)

 

[SrC]

I never said RED.
Do you plan on NEVER REMOVING YOUR pinion. IF so knock yourself out and use RED TL.

I never use RED anywhere on my RC's. Maybe a limited exception to this rarely if ever need it. On my Nitro rig. I have .
I stated above to use BLUE.

 

[slick2500]

I never said RED.
Do you plan on NEVER REMOVING YOUR pinion. IF so knock yourself out and use RED TL.

I never use RED anywhere on my RC's. Maybe a limited exception to this rarely if ever need it. On my Nitro rig. I have .
I stated above to use BLUE.

I like orange.
I have an 8 year old tube of Permatex red from when I rebuild the engine in my GTP. I wonder if it's still any good

 

[Engineer]

As mentioned above, make sure the pinion hole and grub screw are clean. Run the grub screw all the way down to make sure you don't have any residual thread locker keeping the pinion from making solid contact with the motor shaft.

Also, FWIW, you should use shouldered socket head cap screws on the motor mount to keep the screws from digging into the mount.

 

[slick2500]

As mentioned above, make sure the pinion hole and grub screw are clean. Run the grub screw all the way down to make sure you don't have any residual thread locker keeping the pinion from making solid contact with the motor shaft.

Also, FWIW, you should use shouldered socket head cap screws on the motor mount to keep the screws from digging into the mount.

Or some washers.

 

[sanara.kenshin]

If you use a blue loctite 243 its oil tolerant. So its okay not cleaning the oil. Ive been using it for 5 years on my helis with no issues.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1329...id=1615701165&sprefix=loctite+,aps,225&sr=8-2

 

[SrC]

^^^This.
243 TL has been my flavor also for about 2 years now. Oil tolerant yes.

 

[M240i_bandit]

Use blue LT, clean everything off then apply to the grub - I also had the issue (as have a few others) with the pinion sometimes moving on the shaft so I'd say it's probably worth dabbing a bit of blue LT between the shaft and the pinion and letting it all set for 24 hours

Some will say never do this blah blah without providing a proper reason but I'd say it's 100% worth doing, it'll stop the pinion falling off or worse working its way down and grinding into the motor mount if for whatever reason the pinion doesn't hold it - also you won't need to tighten the pinion down so hard it digs into the shaft

See here for full discussion - did some calculations, analysis & testing:
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/pinion-keeps-moving.34021/page-4#post-483307

Post 47, 49, 66 mainly but the whole thread is worth a read imo

 

[Harriot10]

My go to is the Permatex. Use the blue on all metal to metal and the orange for pinions. Orange is a little stronger but not permanent. Holding this 44t in place!