Mojave Please Help With Mojave Wheel Option

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I run talion katars on my Mojave
Yeah it appears the Talion Katars are Zero offset Truggy size wheels. Which fit. Pretty much any Truggy zero offset wheel should fit.
 
Hyrax on Kyosho hubs.

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Mojave Hyrax 1.jpg
 
is that with the 11mm offset kyosho hubs?
Yep. Removed the splines from the wheels, bored them out to take the hub, then milled back the face flange to make room for the nut. Sorta tedious, but worth the effort.

Will be working on a fixture to go into the Hass lathe to hold the wheel and make this much faster and more precise.

s.
 
You can try using one or 2 shims behind the outer wheel bearings (diff shims) to space the hex adapters a few mm out. I did that to remove side slop at the axels. just some ides.
That side slop (wheel wobble) really grinds my gears! Are the diff shims you’re referring to 12x18x0.25?
I ask because I used to use 12x18x0.5 behind the wheel hub to take some slop out. I upgraded to those HR hubs and C cups and the slop where the axel meets the hub is way worse. My trusty 12x18x0.5 are too thick now.
 
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I know I used TKR1222, Tekno shims ( diff shims) behind the outer wheel bearings. (16mm or something)
Just look up that Tekno part. I know they are .1mm thick. I use the stock plastic hubs. I think that the HR hubs still use the stock outer BB size. Check that. If so, these Tekno shims will work. Kyosho also makes then in a thicker variant (.15mm). Not 100% sure of the thickness or part number.
 
I know I used TKR1222, Tekno shims ( diff shims) behind the outer wheel bearings. (16mm or something)
Ahh ok. I was shimming the inner bearing before I got the HR upgrades.
Do you know if there would be a difference in shimming outside vs inside of the hub?
This is more of an x axis wobble as opposed to a y axis wobble.
 
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There is slop with the stock plastic hubs. I don't have HR's. Believe it or not just adding 2 shims really helped slop. Sometimes only one shim is nedded. There needs to be a tick of play or you will brick the bearings.. I had one axle that needed (3) .1mm shims and one that needed just one. 🤷‍♂️ 2 that needed 2 shims.
The difference is minute enough to work yet poses no issue with the Track width. I put black marker around the stock wheel hexes and I show no rubbing at all. Shimming the rear/inner may be better. IDK. Never shimmed from the inside BB. Appears the axles are a bit long and creates the slop.
I have done this to all my 6s rigs I own. You probably need 1 package for all 4 wheels if shimming the outer bearings, and of course you need them for shimming the diffs. . For me was a lot of shims and shimming.
 
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Good times this morning.

Mojave Hyrax 2.jpg



Proline Racing Hyrax UDR tires
Traxxas UDR wheels modified
Kyosho +11mm hubs
Modified swaybars with RC 8.2e drop links and ball ends.
1650 kV Hobbywing Max 6 combo.
SMC V2 graphine battery.
AVID Revo bearings
M2c outdrives
Scortched earth front fenders
Savox servo
 
Good times this morning.

View attachment 133178


Proline Racing Hyrax UDR tires
Traxxas UDR wheels modified
Kyosho +11mm hubs
Modified swaybars with RC 8.2e drop links and ball ends.
1650 kV Hobbywing Max 6 combo.
SMC V2 graphine battery.
AVID Revo bearings
M2c outdrives
Scortched earth front fenders
Savox servo
Those hyrax must balloon like a sob? What size are they
 
I see that Arrma addressed the wheel hub issue and changed the Mold of the Mojave wheels as of late. Maybe no more wheel rubbing now?
 
If you need them, Buy them. Compare your old wheels to the new ones. They are visibly very different on the inside.
If you got another old set, just send them back. But I think all the old ones are gone by now. Because these wheels were on B/O for so long. IDK 100% for sure.
You can only try. 🤷‍♂️
 
I would also check your axle/hub bearings. I strippex one of my wheel hexes and put some Katar Ts on, and on the next run noticed that my wheel rear wheels nut were hot. The previously stripped side being almost too hot to touch. So I checked and the hotter side had a completely seized bearing and a gritty one...so I started thinking maybe the plastic got hot enough to soften just a bit and allowed the hub to spin the hex. Don't know for sure, but whenever I hand check my motor now, I'll touch the wheels nuts and the rear driveshaft where it enters the cup to the diff input gear (had that bearing seize as well), and check the bearings if it's more than warm.

Anyway, using Duratrax blinders with m2c 2mm hub extensions and dual nut now.
 
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