Outcast poop Arrma Diffs

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dziugas1998

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Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Outcast 6s
Hello, I breaking a lot of front diffs (Crown Gears) in my Arrma Outcast 6S. At the begining I put 2-3 "0.1mm" shims, later on I put more more and more...Sometimes there is 6 or 7 "0.1mm shims" in my front diff. I shim rear as well, but rear is running okay.

Will Arrma metal diff case (ARA220050) help with stock bulkhead??? https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA220050
So, if I will buy metal VITAVON diff bulkhead will it solve the problem? https://www.ebay.com/i/283720259090?chn=ps


Basicaly, I can get 10-12 rides untill my front diff will start grinding and making some poop noises.
Or should I sell my 6S outcast and go for 4S outcast?
 
Completely remove the diff and thoroughly inspect the housing for cracks or stripped bolt holes, especially any of the 4 that hold the cover in place. If you’re going through ring gears it’s in quick order I’ve found that it’s usually the diff case that’s compromised and causing gear separation/failure under load.
 
I changed plastic diff gearbox many times aswell, ~15 runs and diffs are breaking again.
 
I changed plastic diff gearbox many times aswell, ~15 runs and diffs are breaking again.
I feel ya man. I went through a ton of them till updating to the exb diffs and the HR gearbox cover. 25packs and no breakage. I was getting 2 to 3 runs per ring/input gears lol. No shimming or gearboxes mattered.

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I will say the HR helical diff gear for the 3s 4s series looks absolutely beastly 🤓. And yes the 4s has its issues as well, shock shafts/diffs/servo/etc. 8th buggies are prolly the safest bet, any manufacture not just arrma. I know it seems Aweful but if you chuck the $22x2 HR gearbox covers and $60x2 EXB diffs w/housing and input gear on ebay. Then you will have a solid 8th scale beast. Besides 8th buggies you have always had to do lots of upgrades to any rc pushing big power. Hell I had $1200 in my last kyosho monster truck. $1300 in my E-revo.

All the 8th buggies I've had Ofna lx comp, hobao hyper ss, mugen seiki, Aside from the initial vehicle purchase and electronics I rarely broke anything and didnt have to upgrade a thing. I also had a v1 typhon, broke an a arm a few times, had for two years, Raced and bashed it, didn't upgrade a thing.

The Talion is also a pretty safe vehicle.
 
Hot Racing just released a beefier looking alternative.
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Who wants to be the guinea pig and test these out?
 
Hello, I breaking a lot of front diffs (Crown Gears) in my Arrma Outcast 6S. At the begining I put 2-3 "0.1mm" shims, later on I put more more and more...Sometimes there is 6 or 7 "0.1mm shims" in my front diff. I shim rear as well, but rear is running okay.

Will Arrma metal diff case (ARA220050) help with stock bulkhead??? https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA220050
So, if I will buy metal VITAVON diff bulkhead will it solve the problem? https://www.ebay.com/i/283720259090?chn=ps


Basicaly, I can get 10-12 rides untill my front diff will start grinding and making some poop noises.
Or should I sell my 6S outcast and go for 4S outcast?
don't have hardly any issues with diffs sometimes I will break the pins in the diff but thats it. and run the cars hard.
 
I had many issues with them in my outcast 6s as well. Tried the 2 piece alloy/steel cups. Had to remove one gasket and seal the cap with RTV instead to gain space to allow me to shim them properly. Then had bearings blow out. Stripped screws in the diff cover due to the t-bone bumper. Went through 7 diffs. Made it through all last year without blowing a ring/pinion, but I did break my first pin under the sun gear.

I always run at least 2 sets of packs through it and I took it out 10 times last year. I'm sure there were a few where I broke something else that didn't allow me to finish a pack, so conservatively 15 runs. I did find that changing from wrapped trencher 3.8's to wrapped backflips seemed to help as well.
 
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