NewKratonuser0311
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Will this plug fit into my receiver on the auxiliary spot? Or is it better to run fans off small battery?
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Nice I will finish them tomorrow my two year old wanted to assist if ya got kids you know how that goes lol. Now there are 3 prongs I believe or 4 which one goes whereYes. Those don’t draw much power. Just run them from the rx.
Just make sure the black wire is in the same spot as the black where your others are plugged in. Positive is in the middle.Nice I will finish them tomorrow my two year old wanted to assist if ya got kids you know how that goes lol. Now there are 3 prongs I believe or 4 which one goes where
Thanks I’ll do that, the heat sink and fans move a little but when I put the pin back into the brace tower it keeps it from movingJust make sure the black wire is in the same spot as the black where your others are plugged in. Positive is in the middle.
Finished up that connection and fans are running no problems.Yes. Those don’t draw much power. Just run them from the rx.
Awesome!!Finished up that connection and fans are running no problems.
For a couple 35 mm power hobby fans only pulling like an amp combined will have no issue running off receiver box just keep in mind if you have spektrum avc or others they use aux 1&2 for avc control so use 3 and up …I personally like the 3s battery with a switch running my fans but it depends on the application…Will this plug fit into my receiver on the auxiliary spot? Or is it better to run fans off small battery? View attachment 207223
Heat sinks are designed to dissipate heat meaning the thermal energy rises from the “fins “on the heat sink so I personally have my fans or fan on top the motor blowing out not down and one or 2 on the side blowing cold air in ..keep in mind all the heat the car generates during use rises and gets trapped inside the body so u do t want to blow hot air on your motor ….depending on the application ..speed run cars,bashers,short course.etc all have diff cooling capabilitieslooking to upgrade my motor fan. On the BR is it better to remove the stock heat sink or get motor clips so the fan can blow directly on the motor?
Heat sinks are designed to dissipate heat meaning the thermal energy rises from the “fins “on the heat sink so I personally have my fans or fan on top the motor blowing out not down and one or 2 on the side blowing cold air in ..keep in mind all the heat the car generates during use rises and gets trapped inside the body so u do t want to blow hot air on your motor ….depending on the application ..speed run cars,bashers,short course.etc all have diff cooling capabilitieslooking to upgrade my motor fan. On the BR is it better to remove the stock heat sink or get motor clips so the fan can blow directly on the motor?
^^^ is perfectly ok to tap off BEC volts at any Channel port, even if running AVC that requires those 2 channels for AVC Gain control. The signal wire circuit is not affected by merely getting BEC volts from any open available channel port. Fans only need the + and -, not the "signal pin out". AVC will not be affected in any way thank you for the correction,I’ve always kept them open per castle instructions and didn’t k ow it would t affect avc if used .. that’s what I love about this forum ! Let me ask you a question then ..are the auxiliary wires necessary if not used on a xlx2 for instance? I e seen many people just remove the pins take that out of the harness all together ..like I said that’s what I was tought and what castle instructions say to do …Ty for teaching an old dog new tricks !!
I’m sure you know what the instructions say for the spektrum abc receivers and the xlx2 ..just showing why I was always doing it the way the directions said …and and was told that years ago smh it’s always awesome to learn something new!^^^ is perfectly ok to tap off BEC volts at any Channel port, even if running AVC that requires those 2 channels for AVC Gain control. The signal wire circuit is not affected by merely getting BEC volts from any open available channel port. Fans only need the + and -, not the "signal pin out". AVC will not be affected in any way. An additional Servo for instance should NOT be placed on Channel 1 and 2 Aux. with AVC however. Like If running a Hand brake Servo as one example.
Nothing wrong with using a small dedicated Lipo battery for fans, if you are inclined to do so , charging them up etc. Fitting on chassis etc.
But ESC BEC Amp overhead should not be an issue most of the time, if fans are powered off BEC directly. Just add up total amps you are running off the BEC. Check what Amp overhead the ESC spec output is to make sure you are well within spec. If thye servo and all fans exceed the BEC amp rating, you may get brownouts, signal loss.
Yeah I too see a noticeable cooling advantage. I did a double take when I first realized this with temp gun. And many subsequent test show without a heatsink is always cooler no matter the ambient outside temps. Even 10F +cooler is a big plus. IMO.I got rid of my heat sinks and switched over to these power hobby mounts. I can mount two fans, one on each side. I tested with and with out heat sinks and without stayed cooler by 10+ degrees far as I could tell.
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Yup, you and others were talking about this awhile back which got me thinking and ultimately doing my own tests to confirm.Yeah the Instructions I have read numerous times over. If you look closely, they are only concerned with using a Servo on aux 1 and 2 ports. It is the signaling that must be dedated for AVC on these ports. Using just the BEC voltage pin outs ( + and -) will not affect AVC gain control on those aux channels.
The CC instruction don't really apply here. And much depends on your type of radio and available channels of the rx. The CC aux wire is for one "On the Fly" radio selectable ESC parameter. And CC wants the Aux signal wire to be on an available assignable radio/Rx channel.
How I see it.
Yeah I too see a noticeable cooling advantage. I did a double take when I first realized this with temp gun. And many subsequent test show without a heatsink is always cooler no matter the ambient outside temps. Even 10F +cooler is a big plus. IMO.
Using a HS just takes much longer to cool down utimately.Motor stays hot longer.
99% of Heatsinks never mate to the Motor's can properly. Poor contact surface area = Less thermal transfer. These RC HS are not like precision PC processor HS's where the surfaces are milled and matched to precision tolerances.
Edited.
I too tested and concluded the same results with the heat sinks temps went up with the fan used and ambient temps dropped noticeably and cooling was much faster when heated up ..I believe amongst other factors..pooor design ,bad contact ,improperly set on the motor etc that heat sinks are a last resort ..I’ve found that the fan mounts with the clamp no heat sinks allows the air to travel around the entire motor instead of bouncing the heat back off the heat sinks and never mind the fact that most people don’t realize you need proper air gap between motor and bottom of fans for the cooling system to work to it’s full potential …just my findings ..I’m sure others will have diff results but I’ve done extensive cooling test and the design I came up with that Tex koda is making/designing should be a game changer !I got rid of my heat sinks and switched over to these power hobby mounts. I can mount two fans, one on each side. I tested with and with out heat sinks and without stayed cooler by 10+ degrees far as I could tell.
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